Model #93 CRAFTSMAN Seeder

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Question and Answers

Q:

Where is the learn button on the garage door opener to program a new remote? 139655000 Craftsman Electronic garage door opener

A:

Thank you for your inquiry on your Craftsman Garage Door Opener, Model: 139.655000. From reviewing the details on your specific model, it appears that the remote control is not compatible with your model. From our records your Garage Door Opener is a 1987 model or older than that.  Any Garage Door Opener older than 1995 has a set of switches on the remotes and the logic board that need to match in order for the system to work. This model does not have a learn button in its system because it uses the dip switches.  I’m sorry for any inconvenience that the store rep might have caused you, with advising that the remote would work for your model.  

I hope this answered your question. Thank you for choosing SearsPartsDirect.com and have yourself a wonderful rest of your day. 

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Gerry93 -
Sears Technician
January 27, 2015
A:

Gerry93 - thanks for your answer. Can you use a universal garage door remote with dip switches for this model opener?

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Roy -
December 13, 2015
A:

I have a new replacement remote with the dip switches. I have put the switchs in the exact position as indicated in the box on the wall. It does not open the garage door.i don't have any other buttons to push other than the button on the wall that opens the garage door. Please help. Can I program my new car without using a remote?

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Lorraine -
January 07, 2016
A:

I bought the universal remote with dip switches but when I set it to the switches in the box on the wall it still does not work.my universal remote is a craftsman 53778

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Jeffrey -
January 13, 2016
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Q:

Lid light still blinks after it was replaced, now start/pause light blinks also. Washer doesn't go past sensing, why? 11026002010 Kenmore Automatic washer

A:

Thank you for your inquiry on your Kenmore Washer, Model: 110.26002010. From reviewing the details on your model, this washer will function differently than the washers we are all used to. When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load. NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.

If the washer never advances past the lid lock and unlock, the first thing I recommend is checking for error codes. This washer has a test routine you can run that will help in the diagnosis of any problems the control detects. If the control detects a problem it will identify it with an error code.

Safety Warning: Before beginning the repair, disconnect the direct power supply to the washer to prevent the risk of injury or any electrical shock.

If you don’t feel comfortable or confident in this repair, then you can have it repaired at home by a sears technician. I have the included a link to the website: Sears Home Services or call 1-800-469-4663.

I hope this answered your question. Thank you for contacting SearsPartsDirect.com, and have yourself a wonderful day. 

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Gerry 93 -
Sears Technician
April 29, 2015
A:

Gerry93. what would besot helpful is instructions on how to do a "master reset" and 2, what the heck are these error codes and how do you do the test routine. You post good info but no details on how to.... My machine has been down for 6 weeks and I need to fix this...has same issues. Already replaced the lid switch with new, motor and belt and pump all look good. Need service guide that lists error codes and detailed info on troubleshooting....please help

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Oscar -
December 30, 2015
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Q:

Kitchenaid Oven KEBC177KBL0 - how do you put the oven door back on? (more detail than pg 22 in the use and care guide please)

A:

Having the door probably installed is very important. I did some research on your model number but was not able to find a solution for getting the door back on. Your expert will be able to help answer your question. It may take two business days. I do hope that everything works out on the oven.

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Marc -
February 03, 2013
A:

That notch that is circled in green on the first image below should fit into the hinge receptacle on the body of the oven and you should then be able to open the oven fully. It appears that the hinge stop did not prevent the hinge from retracting to the closed position. The hinge will normally be sticking out at an angle as shown in the photographs that I posted in the second image. Those photographs show a similar hinge system that uses the same procedure for removing and replacing the oven door. You will need to pull the hinges out as shown in this video to replace the door: Video: How to Reinstall Your Oven Door . That should help you solve the problem. If you need more help, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 05, 2013
A:

Here are the images.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 05, 2013
A:

Lyle - thanks. Here is an update. used the pipe to move the hinge to flip the hinge stop. The picture above is with the hinge stop already in place. I've attached 3 pictures. Left on is with the hinge stop in place. middle is with hinge stop flipped back (like when door is in normal position), Right shows back one in normal position and front one in locked or to be installed position. Does this help?

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Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

here are some more pics. Right on is with the pipe pulling the hinge open and the hinge stop flipped to the "locked" position to install the door, middle is slowly releasing pipe to have hinge stop catch on the door, left picture is the pipe fully removed and the hinge stop in the "locked" position. We can still not get the door on. When putting it in, we can hear the hinge stop release, but it does it before the door is in far enough. Not ready to open the door for it to fall into the right place. I attached additional pictures cause, to me, my hinge does not look as far down (like more than 90 degrees) as the one in your picture or the video. How do we get it to be down further (if it needs to be) Thanks for help

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Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

Thanks for the additional pictures. The image below appears to show the hinge at the proper position with the retainer in place. If you can position both hinges in that manner, then you should be able to get the hinge arms to hook onto the receptacles. You can then open the door fully and position the retainers properly. It may take some patience and several attempts to get the door back onto the range. You seem to be on the right track when you position the hinges as shown in the image below.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 06, 2013
A:

Thanks. Will try to figure out a way to keep it in that position. That picture was taken with pressure still on the pipe to show it going thru the steps to it's final resting position. Without pressure on the hinge, it doesn't stay in the position shown in the picture you selected. Maybe we can wedge something in the door slot to keep it open during the installation. Will let you know. Thanks for your help.

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Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

Door is back on. Wedged a plastic pc under the hinge to keep it in the more open position and it went right in!!! Couldn't have done it without you! Thanks

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Karen -
February 06, 2013
A:

Thanks Karen. We are glad to hear that you were able to replace that oven door. Let us know if you ever need more assistance.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 07, 2013
A:

Lyle - hoping can help me some more. After got door back on, tested the new parts. Unfortunately, did not solve the problem. When oven is cool, the light will come on when the door is opened. When the oven is warming up, the light will come on when the door is opened (and convection fan will turn off), but when it is up to temp (say 350 for 5 min), when the door is opened, neither the light nor the convection fan will turn off. We had replaced the latch assembly (part #4451896), but that does not solve the problem. The other problem is that when using the self clean mode, it gives error of F5E1, which we thought was also associated with the door latch (cause error code says F5E1 is self clean latch will not lock, but the door is locked and won't open. (last time it opened after powering off/on once cool - will try that again (hot not from cleaning this time, but due to testing the light/fan on/off). Found info on tech sheet to test the latch - solenoid (resistance = 93 ohms), latch switch continuity- unlatched = infinite, latched = 0 (or small fraction), door open/closed continuity = door closed infinity, door open 3.0 ohms. We also changed the transformer (part #9760588) because I had heard a high pitched noise when the oven was on and not when power was turned off. On another posting, it was suggested that is was probably this transformer and it was for the light, so we thought it might be related. Still hear high pitched noise when oven power on and didn't solve light on with door open problem. What else can it be???? Is there a way to test the microcomputer (part #4452894)? Where does the solenoid that keeps the door locked during cleaning (part #4452224) get it's power to stay in the locked position even when the power has been turned off??? Thanks for your help.

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Karen -
February 10, 2013
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