Model #9240 TOSHIBA Countertop Microwave

  • Panel Assembly
    3 Results
  • Oven Assembly
    3 Results
  • Exploded Views And Parts List/base Assembly
    3 Results
  • Oven Assembly
    3 Results
  • Door Assembly
    3 Results
  • Lock Assembly
    3 Results
  • Cabinet Assembly
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

Can the halogen bulb used for speed cooking and convection be replaced without removing the microwave from the wall? PSA9240SF1SS Ge Microwave

A:

Thank you for being Sears’ valued member and for contacting SearsPartsDirect.com with your question about replacing the halogen bulb used for speed cooking and convection in your GE microwave model PSA9240SF1SS . I am so sorry the part has burned out. In this case the part needs to be replaced by a qualified technician.

The owner’s manual for your microwave has step-by-step instructions for replacing the oven cavity lamp and the bulb under that microwave that lights up the stove top. Because there are no instructions for replacing the heater halogen bulb, replacing it is not a do-it-yourself project.

We do not give this type of repair information on microwave ovens because they are inherently dangerous to service. Microwaves contain high voltage internal components that can retain a lethal electrical charge even when the microwave is unplugged from the power supply. You need special equipment to work on a microwave starting with an anti-static wrist strap grounded to the microwave to even test components in it. Even minor door repairs and adjustments can cause microwave leakage, and a microwave shielding leakage test MUST be performed using a survey meter after ANY/ALL microwave service. 

For these safety reasons I strongly recommend having this repair completed by a qualified service technician. You can schedule service online at www.SearsHomeServices.com or by calling 1-800-4-MY-HOME (1-800-469-4663). Here at SearsPartsDirect.com we love to help you with your repairs, but our expert advice is that microwaves are just too dangerous for a do-it-yourself project. 

Thank you for your understanding in this matter and I hope we can help you with any other questions and repairs in the future. Thank you for choosing Sears.

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Rachel Morgan -
Sears Technician
November 26, 2014
A:

I just wanted to know if the microwave has to come out to be replaced. I know it has to be done by a tech since the microwave is still under warranty. I will need to clear out some cabinets ahead of time if the tech has to completely remove the microwave. I just wanted to know IF it has to be taken out of it's space to replace that halogen light.

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Linda -
November 26, 2014
A:

Thank you for your quick response and clarification of you question. I apologize for the misunderstanding. To replace the halogen bulb used for speed cooking the microwave will need to be removed from the cabinet. I hope this answers your question. Thank you again for choosing Sears. 

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Rachel Morgan -
Sears Technician
November 26, 2014
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Q:

790.9240 Burner quit working & HOT SURFACE indicator light remaining on.

A:

Having the burners working properly on the Kenmore range is important.  I am providing a link on this issue which may be helpful.  Expert response may take two business days, usually sooner.  Thanks for your patience.

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Anna T -
May 20, 2013
A:

Thank you for your question. I can understand your concern about the burner. The information you have received is good. The most likely problem will be with the switch. To check the switch, first disconnect the power and then remove the back panel cover to access, the switch. Now, remove the wire on the P terminal of the switch for the left burner and reconnect the power. Make sure any loose wire does not touch anything. If the indicator light does not turn on, it indicates the switch has failed. Now, to check the burner, disconnect the power again. Remove the wire from either of the #4 terminals and also the wire from the H1 terminal of the rear burner switch. Now, connect the wire that was on H1 terminal to the #4 terminal and reconnect the power. Turn the switch on and if the burner works, it indicates the switch # 316238201 was the complete problem and will need to be replaced. If the burner still won't work, the burner # 316555800 will need to be replaced. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, reply to this thread and I will assist you further.  

 

 

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
May 22, 2013
A:

Scott, thank you for your help. Just worked on it now. The light did stay on after step 1 above. Did step 2, and the burner still would not work. Can you give me instructions, or lead me to instructions on how to replace the burner? My complete model # is 790.92409014. Rick

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Rick -
June 01, 2013
A:

Rick, thank you for the complete model number. Before replacing the burner, disconnect the power and now connect either of the wires on terminal 4 and the wire on the P2 terminal on the switch together. Make sure the wires don't touch anything and reconnect the power. If the element works now, the switch will need to be replaced. If the burner does not work, the main top will need to be raised to access the burner. Disconnect the power first. Remove the screws in the front under the top, so it can be raised. Now, remove the screws holding the supports to lower the burner and it can be removed. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
June 03, 2013
A:

Used electric tape to join P2 & 4 (I also have a 4a terminal) together. Light stayed on, burner would not light with or without turning on switch. Went back and tried step 1 above. When P1 was disconnected, light still came on; when P2 was disconnected, light still came on. Other burners work fine.

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Rick -
June 05, 2013
A:

Rick, based on this latest information, it indicates that the burner # 316555800 has failed and also one of the other switches will also need to be replaced. It will be a process of elimination to determine, which switch is sticking closed. Remove the wire from the P terminal from each of the other switches, one at time to determine, which one is sticking. Be sure to disconnect the power before removing the wire. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
June 06, 2013
A:

I'm assuming that when the light stays off, that will be the switch to replace, correct?

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Rick -
June 06, 2013
A:

Rick, that is correct. It will be a process of elimination as listed above to determine, which switch contact is stuck.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
June 07, 2013
A:

As it turned out, it was only the burner that was causing both the indicator light and the old burner to malfunction. New burner install fixed both Thanks very much for all the help.

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Rick -
July 15, 2013
A:

Rick, I'm glad it's working now, thank you for using Manage My Life.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
July 24, 2013
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Q:

My Kenmore oven is not working.

A:

I can understand your frustration over your oven malfunctioning. While you are waiting for your expert answer, I did some research on the unit. At this time, I was unable to locate information that would be helpful in regards to your question. Some of these questions that are asked will need specific research and will be answered by an expert with-in two business days but usually sooner.

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Julio -
May 28, 2013
A:

Thanks for contacting manage my life about your range/oven model 790.9210…., sorry you are having a problem, I will be glad to assist you. Based on your description of the problem I can advise on some things to check. You will first need to determine if the elements are being powered up at all, if there is not heat most likely they are not getting power.  _Always disconnect power supply before servicing the appliance and when testing live voltage be sure to wear proper safety equipment (gloves and eye protection) also be aware of sharp metals on product_ With the oven set to bake you will need to check voltage to the bake element, this can be done at the control. If there is no power coming out of the control going to the element then the control is bad and needs replacing. If there is power going to the elements, then you will need to trace the wiring for breaks and test the element itself. You will need a high quality volt/ohm meter to do all the testing as well as a basic understanding of electrical circuits and voltages. If the elements are heating but not getting hot, also check for 240 volts + - 5% coming from control, If there is proper voltage other test will need to be made, and you can reply with details and I will be happy to respond. I have attached a wiring diagram for you convenience. If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services.Ron H.  

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Ron H -
Sears Technician
May 31, 2013
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