Model #9217 PEERLESS Faucet

  • Two Handle Washerless Kitchen Faucets
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Question and Answers

Q:

Kenmore Electric Range Broil Element

A:

Diagnosing the problem with the broil function on the Kenmore rang is something the experts are familar with, as you will see in this link:  Broil element.  Hope this information is helpful while an expert responds with additional troubleshooting.  If you decide on service, click here:  Sears Home Services. 

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Anna T -
April 16, 2013
A:

I am sorry to hear about the problem that you are having with your Kenmore Range Model 665.92173300.

 

The location of the thermal fuse for the broil element is shown in the image below. You can unplug the range and access that fuse as shown below. You can check to see if a blown fuse is causing your problem by connecting the wires that go to that fuse together and taping them with electrical tape so the wires don't short out to the metal cabinet. Reassemble the range and plug it back in. Briefly start the oven in the broil mode to see if it heats properly. Make sure the broil element cycles off properly when the interior oven temperature heats up to 500 degrees (close the oven door so that the oven sensor will detect that temperature in the oven cavity). If the broil element works properly during that brief test, then you should be able to fix your problem by replacing that thermal fuse. Do not continue to operate the range with that thermal fuse bypassed. Restore the original wiring configuration to that fuse and order the replacement part. You can order that fuse from this page: Thermal Fuse Part 3196548 for Kenmore Range Model 665.92173300.

 

Be sure that you unplug the range before accessing internal components and replacing parts.

 

Note: If that thermal fuse was blown, you will normally need to determine what caused that fuse to blow if possible before replacing it. A bad relay in the control board, a short in the wiring or a problem with the broil element could cause that failure. There are times when the thermal fuse will blow due to a "nuisance trip" where the fuse experiences high temperature due to broiling items that have a high fat content. If you suspect that the fuse was blown due to a nuisance trip, then replacing the fuse should fix your problem without further component diagnosis and repair. 


If the broil element does not heat after bypassing that thermal fuse, then you may have a failed broil element (even though it does not appear to be broken), a wiring failure or a problem with the electronic oven control board in the console. Reply with additional details if you need more help diagnosing and repairing this failure.

 

If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician examine and repair the range, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services Range Repair. 

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 17, 2013
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Q:

Washing machine developed a noise on the last spin cycle. It seems as though the drum has resistance, not spinning at proper speed.

A:

A noisy washer can definitely cause some concern and I will be happy to help. I am adding a link below that will provide you with some information about what may be causing the problem on your washer. I hope this helps while you wait for your expert answer!

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Joseph P. -
September 19, 2011
A:

There is a Do-it-Yourself manual available for this washer.

The part number is 4314044 and is available from the following link: Sears PartsDirect for about $19 dollars.

There is a spin bearing that can be causing problems in spin. You would have to remove the transmission to access the clutch and basket drive.

I can provide you with some illustrations and instructions if you don't wish to purchase the manual.

I hope this helps. Good luck on this project.

You can reply with any additional details or questions for further assistance.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
September 21, 2011
A:

Fred, Thank you very much for the response back. Is the manual descriptive enough to show taking apart the transmission and illustrations to disassemble trans? Is the manual for this specific washing machine or a generic one that could be used for all machines or transmissions? I am very used to GM service manuals and they are descriptive.

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Tim -
September 21, 2011
A:

Fred, I would be interested in whatever illustrations and instructions that you could supply me

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Tim -
September 21, 2011
A:

You won't need to take the transmission apart. You'll need to remove it. The manual does have illustations and instructions that are fairly complete. The images below is an example of what I can provide and you can always rely with any additional details or questions for further assistance.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
September 22, 2011
A:

Thank you Fred for reply back again. Would you happen to know if this service manual has a diagnostic section that explains noises? I am concerned that if I take this apart will I be able to see a bad component. Do I need to remove the tub of the machine to remove the transmission? If so, do you also have the instructions for removing the tub? Thanks again... Tim

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Tim -
September 22, 2011
A:

The guide has a troubleshooting section and pictures to help with removing the basket and transmission. You will need to remove the basket to remove the transmission. There is one tool called a spanner wrench which would be helpful to you removing the basket. The part number for the spanner is 14218862 and can be obtained at SearsPartsDirect. The image below will show how to remove the agitator and basket. I hope this helps. Remember to unplug the washer first.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
September 24, 2011
A:

I did remove the spanner nut and attempted to remove the basket and it will not lift off. Could this be due to the break hanging up or something else? We have hard water here and do see the scum left by that around the outer tub. Is there some way to loosen the basket from the drive block without damaging it. The pictures included (pic #2) shows the scum in the outer tub and picture #2 and 3 shows the drive block where there is some white scum residue between the block and the inside rim edge of the basket where it should release. The tub itself has holes on the bottom that can be seen in all the pics where I can also see to the drive

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Tim -
September 24, 2011
A:

You can try putting some oil around the shaft. You may need two people on each side of the basket trying to rock it back and forth and pulling up at the same time.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
September 25, 2011
A:

Fred, I can not remove the tub (basket). I have removed the transmission though. The shaft that the splined transmission shaft goes into is stuck. I believe the stuck shaft is called "Drive Basket" P/N 388952. (substitution p/n 285792). I believe that the "Drive Basket" should rotate freely in the tub/basket. Is this true? Does the Block-Drive P/N 389140 come out the bottom of the tub/basket? The Drive- Block also is stuck in the tub/basket. Can I hit the Block-Drive with a block of wood and a hammer to remove it? I am thinking about taking the washer to my shop, install a slide hammer onto the bottom end of the "Drive Basket" and get that rascal out to see why it was stuck. I think that the stuck "Drive Basket" is the problem. Is there any way that I can talk to you on the phone? My mobile # is [REDACTED]. I appreciate your help ... Tim Please note: The original content of this post was edited to remove personal contact information to protect your privacy.

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Tim -
October 17, 2011
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Q:

Why is the oven not working on my Kenmore range?

A:

It sounds like the electronic oven control has failed. The only way to confirm this type of symptom is by checking the voltage coming out of the control going to the oven elements.

If you have a meter & some basic tools please get back with us on this for more specific troubleshooting tips.

I have included the wiring diagram showing the oven circuit below incase you have a meter available.

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biker dave -
Sears Technician
April 18, 2009