Model #917276815 CRAFTSMAN Lawn, Tractor

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Q:

wiring harness repair-need terminals and schematic to replace wires in 6 pin connector-front end 917276815 Craftsman Tractor

A:

Thank you for choosing Sears parts direct. I will be happy to help with your lawn tractor. Upon researching model number 917276815; the engine would have its own wiring harness.  Click here for the diagram. The harness is key number 789. Terminals off of a harness are not available. Terminal can be found at electrical supply shops and hardware shops.

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Jeff Wallace Jr -
Sears Technician
July 23, 2015
Q:

Brake Pad Replacement 917276815 Craftsman Tractor

A:

I have attached a photo/diagram to help you with this. The brake pads are in front of and behind the brake disk on the right side of the transmission. It's best to remove the rear right wheel to access this area, but it's not completely necessary. So if the wheel seems stuck on the axle, just work around it.

If the machine isn't stopping well, you can probably just tighten the crown nut on the brake assembly a turn or so and everything will be back to normal. If you do have to tighten the crown nut several turns then it may indeed be time to replace the pads or the dowels in the brake jaw are stuck.

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Wade_B -
Sears Technician
September 19, 2013
A:

Thanks so much for the info, unfortunately I can't find the attachment. However, now that I know that it can be done I will probably be able to remove and replace . I have adjusted the brakes to the point it don't do much.

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gordon -
September 20, 2013
A:

cut/paste: http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/questions/361287 into your browser window. I think you may be accessing our site from another site and photos do not transfer over for some reason.

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Wade_B -
Sears Technician
September 20, 2013
A:

Thank you so much. Saved me a lot of problems.

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gordon -
September 22, 2013
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Q:

craftsman lawn tractor 917.27681 blade speed inconsistent

A:

Look on the top left side of the mower deck and you'll notice the pivot point for the right hand idler (the one the cable/spring connects to). Loosen the nut on the pivot point (9/16 wrench) just a little bit and oil it well. Now, with the engine OFF, engage the blades. While the engine is off and the blades are engaged, grab the belt and pull it then just let go of it. Do that a few times and the action should cause the pivot point to move a bit when you do it. Now, with the nut still a little bit loose, start the engine and engage the blades. Let it run for a little bit and see if the weird sound you hear is still present. If it's not, shut everything down and tighten the pivot point nut back until it is just snug and you're off and mowing. If you do that and still hear the blades speed up and down, loosen the nut again and oil it more. You may end up needing to take the whole pivot area apart and clean everything up. Usually though, it just won't be that bad.

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Wade_B -
Sears Technician
September 03, 2013
A:

From which orientation should I be looking at the top left side of the mower deck? I wasn't sure since I'm not clearly seeing the pivot point you are referencing. Could it be as simple as the belt is too stretched and needs replaced? With the blades engaged, if I turn on the engine pulley the mandrels/blades turn by the belt but it just kind of slides over the idlers without really turning those. And when hand-turning the right-hand mandrel the left hand mandrel and blade don't turn at the same speed. I did notice that, with the belt off, the left hand idler pulley spins quietly and very freely. However, the right hand idler pulley has kind of a rubbing noise and doesn't spin nearly as free. It turns easily but doesn't spin much more than a revolution freely. Is that possibly part of the problem or of no concern? One other thing I noticed as I was looking at what you were referencing, when I engage the blades everything locks towards the back of the deck as the spring and cable pull tight. However, when reversing the lever to disengage the idler pulley mechanisms barely move forward but I can pull the right hand idler pulley forward which then gets it totally out of that locked/engaged position. This may be only because I'm activating things not during normal operating conditions, in which case all that stuff probably kicks completely out on its own(?). I don't suspect this to have anything to do with it as its the engaged position running the blades that is not working properly. I'm just pointing it out in case it points to some other issues to check. Without knowing how things look/listen/feel on a properly operating deck I'm not sure if the above are issues or not so I thought it better to point them out. (Regardless, I would still like to know about the pivot point you reference so I am aware of that for this or possible future maintenance). Thanks for the response.

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Andrew -
September 04, 2013
A:

I went ahead and changed out the belt. That may be all he problem was. It mowed just fine after that. I wonder if those other items are still potential issues. But if we can just get this season out of it we're good. Next year we're planning to get something new but it would be nice if his one can still work then as well.

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Andrew -
September 05, 2013
A:

Glad the belt seems to have solved the problem. The pivot point should be oiled/greased from time to time though. It's on the left side (as your using the tractor, left) of the mower deck. On the inside of the hanger. Locate the small pulley on the left and look just behind that and you should see a large round washer piece. That is the pivot point.

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Wade_B -
Sears Technician
September 06, 2013
A:

I saw that when acting on your first post and suspected that was likely what you were referencing but was not sure. Thanks for the clarification and the advice to lubricate it.

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Andrew -
September 07, 2013
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