Model #79096619407 KENMORE Free Standing, Electric

  • Backguard
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  • Body
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  • Top/drawer
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  • Door
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  • Wiring Schematic
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  • Wiring Diagram
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Question and Answers

Q:

Stove top burner doesn't operate properly

A:

It can be very aggravating when your stove top fails to operate properly. While you are waiting for your expert answer, I did some research on the unit. At this time, I was unable to locate information that would be helpful in regards to your question. Some of these questions that are asked will need specific research and will be answered by an expert with-in two business days but usually sooner.

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Julio -
June 22, 2013
A:

OK. What I'm trying to determine is which terminals to connect with the multimeter that will confirm continuity for each circuit. Looks like I'm going to have the same issue with the burner itself as there doesn't seem to be a way to tell which leads feed the 6" burner and which ones fee both. Also, the temperature limit switch adds to the confusion.

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GERRY -
June 22, 2013
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

Measure for 220 volts across terminals 4a and 2 for the outer coil and measure voltage across terminals 4 and 2 for the inner coil.

The terminal P3 on the cooktop lockout relay board supplies the Line 2 (L2) voltage to terminal P1 at the burner switch. Since the outer coil works, the cooktop lockout relay for the burner is Okay.

I added an image below of the dual burner circuit. If you measure 220 volts across termimals 4 and 2 and the inner coil is not working, I suspect a faulty burner.

NOTE: I do not remcommend making any voltage measurements unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so, otherwise I recommend calling a service technician. 

 If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
June 24, 2013
A:

I understand what you are saying. I could do this check, if necessary, but would prefer to use a resistance check if it will confirm the same thing. After disconnecting the leads on the switch, I have used a multimeter as follows: - with the switch turned to "single" (inner), I get + ohms across P2->4 - with the switch turned to "dual" (both inner and outer), I get + ohms across both P2->4 and P2->4a. If I am correct, this indicates that the switch is operating properly and that the problem is with the burner unit itself. Do you agree? Or should I do the voltage check as you suggest?

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GERRY -
June 24, 2013
A:

Gerry: Based on your details, it sounds like the switch is Okay providing you disconnected the wires from the switch before measuring across the terminals. You can also check for resistance across the two wires too after disconnecting the wires from the switch to check the burner too. I do not recommend checking the voltage unless you have experience and feel safe confident in doing so, otherwise check for continuity and resistance.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
June 24, 2013
A:

Good. Since I had the back open already, I did the voltage check and got ~ 220 across both 2&4 and 2&4a. Based on your comments, this means the element is bad. I will replace it. Thank you for your help. It was straightforward and easy to understand.

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GERRY -
June 24, 2013
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Q:

Bake broil element not woking

A:

Having a Oven is one of the main appliance in a home so when it quits working it can be very disappointing. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question, I found this great link in the Manage My Life website on Bake Broiler. I attached the link below. Hope this helps! http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/questions/161002-why-is-the-broiler-not-working-on-my-kenmore-range

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Dezeray S -
October 25, 2010
A:

Dezeray S. provided a link for a previous answer on a similar problem. Here is some troubleshooting tips that apply more specifically to your failure:

A bad oven sensor will not likely cause this problem. The control will normally signal a fault code if the sensor is bad. You can unplug the range and check the resistance of the sensor with a volt/ohm meter to test it. The second and third images show how to access this component. If you see mounting screws inside the oven cavity as shown in the second image, you can remove the sensor using that procedure. If you see no mounting screws inside the oven cavity, then you will need to remove the back panel and disconnect the wire harness plug as shown in the third image. Measure the resistance of the sensor. You should measure around 1100 ohms at room temperature. If the sensor is okay, I recommend that you plug it back in and continue with the troubleshooting shown below.

The wiring diagram for this portion of your range is shown in the image below with the wires traced in colors. I recommend that you unplug the range and check the wiring connections on the control board. Remove the upper back panel to access the electronic oven control board in the console. Check the red wire and the orange wire on the control board. If these wires are connected properly, I recommend that you look for a burned spot on the control board. If you see a burned spot then the control board will need to be replaced. Even if you see no apparent damage to the control board, it will likely need to be replaced if the 4 wires traced below are connected properly. If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can check the continuity through the bake and broil circuits. The bake circuit can be checked by measuring the resistance through the yellow and orange wires. The broil circuit runs through the blue and orange wires. You should measure between 10 and 40 ohms through each of these circuits. If you do, then you can also check the continuity between the red wire and the terminal block that has the red wire connected to it. You should measure near zero ohms of resistance through that circuit. If you do, then the electronic oven control board (part 316418702) will need to be replaced. You may also need to replace the overlay (part 316419800) unless the original one can be reused. You can order these parts from the Sears PartsDirect website.

Be sure that you unplug the range before accessing internal components.

If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will assist you further.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
October 26, 2010
A:

Thanks for your help Lyle. I was wondering if you could send me the entire electrical schematic.I went to sears parts direct and noticed ther were other boards #97 and #97a Could these boards also be the problem. When you refered to the red wire to terminal block , was that to check to see if the wire is broken and would you have to remove one end to check? Also part #316418702 is listed as the clock timer,is this alsoanother name for the electronic oven control board?When you send me the electrical schematic iwill be able to see were the red wire goes and better understand.

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Anonymous -
November 01, 2010
A:

The full wiring schematic is shown in the first image below. The second image shows the wiring diagram. There are other boards on this range. The cook top lockout board and the simmer select board are associated with the cook top burners and do not affect the element and the electronic oven control board. The term Clock/Timer (part 316418702) is another name for the electronic oven control board. If you verify that you have incoming power by UNPLUGGING the range and verifying continuity through the L2 wire, then you will need to replace the control board if you have continuity through the elements. The L1 leg powers up the control board so this leg is apparently okay if the board lights up. If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will assist you further.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
November 01, 2010
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Q:

kenmore electronic oven model # 790.96619407 stoped heating.

A:

I understand your Kenmore Oven is not heating up properly, and it's stopping when in the middle of bake. I found a question in Manage My Life under the Answers button that was similar to the one you asked. I think this question will give you some useful information while your waiting on an expert answer. I attached the link below, I hope this helps!!!!!!

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Raquel F -
August 10, 2010
A:

Based on your symptoms and details if the bake and broil elements have quit heating then the most likely failure is the electronic oven control board. The electronic control board is part #316418702 and can be ordered and shipped to you from Sears Parts Direct . The control can be removed and replaced by removing the panel behind the console. NOTE: Disconnect the power supply from the range before removing the back panel.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
August 11, 2010
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