Model #79078733401 KENMORE Free Standing, Gas

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Question and Answers

Q:

oven not heating, ignitor is getting red 79078733401 Kenmore Gas range

A:

Searspartsdirect.com is always a great resource to find the answers to your parts questions. Your Sears partsdirect expert will research your question and respond within two business days but usually sooner. Thank you for using Searspartsdirect.com!

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Henry -
July 01, 2013
A:

Thank you for submitting your question. I understand your concern and will be happy to assist you. If the ignitor will not ignite, the igniter (316489400) itself, main control board (316452311) or the gas valve (316404900) may need replacement. If you feel comfortable with performing test and repairing this yourself, you can use an ohms/volt meter to test the bake ignitor for the proper continuity. The oven igniter may be too weak to fully open the oven gas valve. You can also switch the broil igniter with the bake igniter to see if the bake will work then. If it does, then replace the igniter. If this does not work, then the issue could be with the gas valve or the main control board. You can order parts from our Sears Parts Direct web site. I hope this helps. Please reply back to this thread if you require further assistance. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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Tykara -
Sears Technician
July 01, 2013
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Q:

oven

A:

Diagnosing this problem with the range would seem frustrating. I did some research on www.managemylife.com. I found some questions similar to yours. I am adding a couple of links below to help you with your question while you wait for your expert response.

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Marc H -
March 06, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question on the oven not going beyond 250 degrees.

Because you have replaced so many parts already, we will have to go deeper into diagnostics.

I would suggest using a volt/ohm meter to check the resistance of the sensor disconnected from the wire harness in the oven. It should be about 1050 ohms at room temperature.

Then reconnect the sensor to the harness and then remove the back panel on the range and unplug the sensor from the range control and check the reading on the end of the wire.

If it is way off from just reading the sensor resistance then I think the wire harness is changing what the control board is seeing and shutting down the oven.

We have seen at times, that the wire harness Molex connector at the plug-in for the sensor, has gotten overheated and with time has melted the connector and wire connections and changed the ohms resistance that the control board is getting.

If that is the case you can hardwire around the connector where the sensor plugs in and use some porcelain wire nuts to make the connections with the wires.

Please let me know what you find out with the wire harness and we can continue to troubleshoot with that information.

Sam A.

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Sam A -
Sears Technician
March 08, 2012
A:

ok i checked the ohms at the probe and then at the harness and all is good the oven goes off at 250 then goes back on[ the temp does go up] keeps going on and off every minute or less[ whats next new oven this one is only 7 years old]

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Thomas -
March 08, 2012
A:

Thank you for the update on the oven burner going on and off. This is not a very common problem. If the igniter is staying on all the time the oven is in the bake mode then the only thing that is left if the safety valve, from all the parts you have already changed. I think this is the only part you have not changed and it sounds like the valve is opening and closing and the burner is going on and off, even with the igniter is staying on. Either that or you have a bad new igniter that is not keeping the safety valve open. A technician would use a clamp-on amp meter to see if the igniter is drawing 3.2 to 3.6 amps. I will send you theory for the operation of this burner circuit and it may help you with understanding how this system works. Let me know what you find out. Sam A.

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Sam A -
Sears Technician
March 09, 2012
A:

i doubled checked the ignighter by switching it to the broiler and it worked good is there a way to check the safety valve before buying one and is possible to buy a used one

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Thomas -
March 12, 2012
A:

Thank you for the update Thomas; I am sorry Thomas but I would not trust a used safety valve even if you could find one. They usually are not taking out unless they are bad. I understand your concern for the cost of replacing the safety valve. I will give you the number and I would suggest supping around on different web-sites to see if you can find one below $100.00. The part number is: 316404900. One last thing on the valve. Please make sure the wire connectors on the safety valve are making good contact with the terminals on the valve connections and that the wires are not discolored or burnt. If you find that to be the case I would suggest you try to repair the wire terminals before replacing the valve. Please let me know what you find out. Sam A.

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Sam A -
Sears Technician
March 13, 2012
A:

sam all the wires look good on safety valve, when the oven goes on the igniter is on and the igniter goes off when the oven shuts off if the valve is bad and shutting on and off would the igniter stay on or would it go on and off like it does is there a way to test the saftey valve thanks

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Thomas -
March 15, 2012
A:

Thank you for the update on the oven safety valve. When the oven control calls for heat the igniter comes on and stays on all the time the control is calling for heat. If the valve is shutting off and the igniter is still on then the safety valve is bad, since this is a new igniter. If the igniter goes out then the valve should shut off. If the igniter is on the gas safety valve should be on. When you changed the oven temperature sensor did you examine the plastic connector where the harness plugs in? I there is any question about that connection I would suggest cutting out the connector and hard wire direct to the sensor wires with porcelain wire nuts. Please let me know what that harness looks like. Sam A.

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Sam A -
Sears Technician
March 16, 2012
A:

the harness looks good

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Thomas -
March 16, 2012
A:

Thank you for the update on the range oven control. If you have a volt meter I would suggest checking the voltage at the back of the control for the igniter circuit when it�s on, to see if the control continues its voltage out put when the burner goes out. If it does, then you may have a wire harness with broken wires and it will not hold the amp draw for the igniter and gas valve. If the control shuts off the voltage then, I would say there is a problem with the control. The control takes its lead from the sensor. Please let me know what you find out. Sam A.

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Sam A -
Sears Technician
March 19, 2012
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Q:

gas range

A:

The last thing you want is to have to wait twice as long to have the baked goods cooked and I am sorry for the inconvenience. I did manage to find a link that describes a similar question. I hope this helps while you wait for your expert response.

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Joseph P. -
February 28, 2012
A:

This is an unusual failure since you already replaced the igniter and that control board. I recommend that you have a service technician examine the range. Here is a link for the Sears Service website: Sears Home Services .

If you want to diagnose this failure further, I recommend that you pull unplug the range and pull that bottom oven panel and the flame spreader. Check that igniter wiring and the position of that igniter. Make sure that it is mounted properly and that the wires are connected securely. If they are, you can plug the range in and start the oven in the bake mode. Observe the igniter and see if it glows properly. The theory of operation for that ignition system is shown in the image below. If that ignitor fades out or shuts off, then you likely have a problem with that clock control board that you just replaced or you have a wiring failure in that circuit. If the igniter glows constantly but the gas valve keeps shutting to cut off the gas supply, then you could have a problem with that replacement igniter. A technician would normally check the amp draw in that wire between the igniter and the safety valve to further diagnose this failure. If you have a clamp-on ammeter, you may be able to check the amp draw in that circuit. NOTE: You should only check that amp draw if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it. Wear proper safety equipment (electrical safety gloves and safety goggles) when making that type of live check . If that amp draw is low, then you will probably need to replace that igniter again. If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will try to assist you further.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 29, 2012
A:

can the problem with my oven be the thermastat the igniter seems to be ok [after the oven heats up it keeps going on and off evrery minute or less]

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Thomas -
February 29, 2012
A:

That range uses a clock control board to apply voltage to that bake burner circuit (and the broil circuit). The wiring diagram in the image below has that bake burner ignition circuit traced in yellow. A relay on that clock control board sends current through that circuit. The clock control board detects temperature through a sensor (resistance temperature detector). I added some video links below that will help you access and check those components. Since the broil circuit is working, it is likely that the sensor is okay but you can check it with a volt/ohm meter as shown in that first video if you suspect that it is causing your problem. The second video shows how to access that sensor probe. Be sure that you UNPLUG the range before accessing internal components. The third video shows how to access the clock control board in the console of your range. Your last post seems to indicate that the igniter may be shutting off and causing this problem. If it is then there is a possibility that you could have a problem with that clock control board if it is not sending constant current through that circuit when set in the bake mode. There is less of a chance that the sensor circuit is the problem since the broil mode works. I added a 4th video below that shows how that ignition system works and how to test it. If that igniter is glowing constantly, then that 4th video may help you understand how that igniter could be causing your problem even though it is glowing constantly. I hope that this additional information helps. It may help you determine the cause of your failure in this range. If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will try to assist you further.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 01, 2012
A:

Here is the 4th video.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 01, 2012
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