Model #79077482803 KENMORE Free Standing, Gas

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Question and Answers

Q:

Oven/Broiler not working on my Kenmore 790.77482803

A:

Did you check the thermostat? Maybe it blew with the breaker

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Jennifer -
January 08, 2011
A:

How upsetting to have this kin of issue. I located a similar question from a previous post that may help provide an answer. Bear in mind the model is a bit different from yours. It may help while you wait for the expert to answer for your model. If you do decide you would feel more comfortable having a professional diagnose and make repairs, an option is to visit Sears Home Services and use the handy scheduler. Hope this helps!

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Barbara H. -
January 08, 2011
A:

Thanks for the responses! How would I check the thermostat?

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DerekP14830 -
January 08, 2011
A:

Did some research and testing. The temperature probe gets ~ 1060-1080 ohms at room temperature. The resistance goes up when you wrap your hand around the probe, so I'm fairly certain that's working right. I get 0v across the oven side of the dual oven valve both before and after turning the oven on, so I'm guessing the control board isn't turning that circuit on. Anyone have any other ideas? I really don't want this to be the control board.

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DerekP14830 -
January 08, 2011
A:

Based on your description, it is likely that you have a failed electronic oven control board.

I recommend that you check to see whether either of the igniters (bake or broil) glow when the oven is set to bake or broil. The theory of operation for the ignition system is shown in the first image below. If neither of the igniters glow, then I recommend that you unplug the range and check the wire harness connections on the control board. The second image shows a partial wiring diagram for the range with the bake and broil circuits highlighted. You can access the control board by removing the upper back panel (with the range unplugged ). If the wiring connections are okay, then you will probably need to replace the control board. We normally do not recommend that you conduct live voltage checks. Your details indicate that you are comfortable making these types of checks in a safe manner. You can check the voltage coming out of the control board on the yellow bake to the white neutral wire in the bake mode. You can check the broil voltage through the blue wire to the white wire. I provided a diagram of the control board in the third image and the wiring connections on the 4th image. If you are not getting any voltage out of the control board (part 316557230), then it will need to be replaced.

You can order parts from the Sears PartsDirect website.

NOTE: Be sure that you unplug the range before accessing internal components. You should only conduct the live voltage check described above if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely execute it.

If you need more help, reply with additional details.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 10, 2011
A:

Here is the 4th image.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 10, 2011
A:

I made the mistake of jumping to conclusions and ordering the oven control module without doing the recommended tests. Turns out the control module isn't the problem. I've gone back and done some continuity tests on the wiring and have found something strange going on in the N (white) power line. Starting at the top and going down in the schematic, the N prong has continuity with everything from the Spark Igniter Module up to the Speed bake indicator. However, the white line of the dual valve does not have continuity with the N prong. It has continuity with ground. I guess this would explain why the breaker tripped, if this wire came loose and made contact with the frame of the unit. Just for the sake of completeness, I turned on the broiler and tested the voltage between the white and blue wires Now, I'm stuck, as I can't figure out how to physically get to the junction point where these wires are connected.

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DerekP14830 -
January 24, 2011
A:

The wiring diagram below is more detailed even though it is more difficult to trace. This should help you check the neutral wire connections. I recommend that you check the continuity through the safety gas valve first. This gas valve rarely fails but it may be the failed component in your scenario. The gas valve should measure about 1.5 ohms of resistance from blue to white and yellow to white. Be sure that you have the range UNPLUGGED when making these resistance checks. I hope that this additional information helps. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 24, 2011
A:

Fixed it! It turns out the neutral line going down to the double valve ended up pinched between the side of the oven and the back panel. Eventually, the copper strands on the inside of the wire ended up snapping and some of them poked through the insulation to make contact with the metal side. This explains my breaker tripping. I cut and stripped the wire, then reconnected it with a wire nut and some electrical tape. Everything is now working normally again. Thanks for the help Lyle!

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DerekP14830 -
January 24, 2011
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