Model #66517032402 KENMORE Dishwasher

  • Door And Panel Parts
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  • Control Panel Parts
    3 Results
  • Door And Latch Parts
    3 Results
  • Lower Washarm Parts
    3 Results
  • Heater Parts
    3 Results
  • Fill And Overfill Parts
    3 Results
  • Tub And Frame Parts
    3 Results
  • Pump And Motor Parts
    3 Results
  • Upper Rack And Track Parts
    3 Results
  • Upper Wash And Rinse Parts
    3 Results
  • Lower Rack Parts, Optional Parts (not Included)
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Troubleshooting

Error Codes

Error Code:

Condition:

Check/Repair:

Question and Answers

Q:

Thermostat wiring question 66517032402 Kenmore Dishwasher

A:

Thank You for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com and being a valued member. It is unfortunate to hear that you are having issues with your dishwasher and I do understand your frustration. Glad to help out. I'm looking at your model number 66517032402 and the thermostat is a switch and will work with the wire connected to either terminal. The switch just cuts the power flow to the machine if the temperature gets hotter than it should. Connecting the wire to either of the 2 terminals will be fine. I trust this information will help you.

 

Thank you for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com.

 

SAFETY NOTICE: Be sure to disconnect power to the appliance before performing any repairs. If you are not comfortable with doing any voltage checks that might be recommended, please contact Sears for repairs. Be aware that there could be sharp edges inside the appliance that could cause cuts or other injuries to yourself or others.

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Sherman_G_Wallace -
Sears Technician
January 03, 2015
Q:

The start button isn't working on My Kenmore dishwasher model number 66517032402. Is there a way to trouble shoot this?

A:

Make sure the child lock is not activated.

I have included a set of illustrated instructions (See below). These should step you through the process of tearing the unit down and checking the touchpad.

The first thing you want to do is check VAC (Voltage Alternating Current) to the CCU (Central Control Unit). You will have to manually make the door switches. (See wiring diagram below) Locate P8 on the CCU; it is a tan wire in the upper left corner of image. Place the red lead of your meter on this wire and place the black lead on a white wire coming out of one of the components. (Along the right side of the diagram) The vent assembly is the easiest one to get to. You should have 120VAC, if not one of your door switches is not made or it’s bad. Double check the door switches.

If you have voltage to the CCU, follow the instructions I have included and check each of the touchpad buttons. If one is bad replace the touchpad. If all test good replace the CCU.

I have included a link for you to use for parts purchase, please click here; Sears Parts Direct

If you require further assistance please resubmit question with details of the checks you have made. I will be looking forward to helping you again in the near future.

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Landell -
Sears Technician
January 11, 2010
A:

Thank you for your question.

The first thing you want to do is check VAC (Voltage Alternating Current) to the CCU (Central Control Unit). You will have to manually make the door switches. (See wiring diagram below) Locate P8 on the CCU; it is a tan wire in the upper left corner of image. Place the red lead of your meter on this wire and place the black lead on a white wire coming out of one of the components. (Along the right side of the diagram) The vent assembly is the easiest one to get to. You should have 120VAC, if not one of your door switches is not made or it’s bad. Double check the door switches.

If you have voltage to the CCU, follow the instructions I have included and check each of the touchpad buttons. If one is bad replace the touchpad. If all test good replace the CCU.

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dtova00 -
Sears Technician
September 25, 2013
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

Based on your symptom and details it sounds like it has a faulty control panel or a slight possibility of it having a faulty control board.

In order to diagnose which one is faulty will require testing the key pad/console operation. If you feel confident in repairing the dishwasher yourself I added an image below with the information needed to test the key pad. You would need and Ohm meter in order to test the key pad. I added the information needed in the image below. You will need to disconnect the power supply from the dishwasher before accessing the control board .

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: www.SearsHomeServices.com

If you have anymore questions, please reply to this post.

Thank you for choosing Manage My Life. 

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dtova00 -
Sears Technician
October 01, 2013
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Q:

Clean light flashes seven times - Kenmore Ultra Wash Dishwasher 665.17032402

A:

Error codes can be a hassle and keep your dishwasher from working properly and I will be happy to help. I did some research and I was able to find a link that will provide you with some good information. Click here for the link. I hope this helps with your research while you wait for your expert response.

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Joseph P. -
June 15, 2013
A:

Thanks Joseph for the pointers. Appreciate your quick response. I looked up this one earlier, but couldn't figure out how to do eliminate - basically needed help on how to do the steps for the following: 1) Neutral side Door Switch not closing (check switch and door latch assembly) 2) Lack of water circulation (pump motor or restriction in circulation channels) I did open look at the resistance for the pump motor - that looked ok, unless there is a blockage inside - they recommend to replace rather than to open it. As I mentioned, water does fill up initially, but I'm not aware if that means that the motor is functioning or that the water inlet is ok.

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Anonymous -
June 15, 2013
A:

I know that it can be very frustrating to have issues with your dishwasher. A heater fault detection program has been added to the electronic control to monitor the operation of the heater. If a temperature rise in the water is not detected during the first 8 minutes of the beginning of the main wash, the dishwasher will shut down and flash the "Clean" light and disable the dishwasher. A fault will be indicated if: A 2°F increase in the water temperature is not obtained (inlet water temp greater than 90°F) or A 4°F increase in the water temperature is not obtained (inlet water temp less than 90°F). If the correct temperature rise is not detected, the dishwasher will drain and blink the clean light 7 times to signal to the consumer to call for service. The detection will be ignored if the temperature is out of its normal range 64 - 160° F or the door is opened during the first 8 minutes of the main wash. This is to prevent a false detection.

Possible causes that could keep the water from properly heating:

  • An open Heating Element circuit (heater, thermostat, or wiring)
  • Neutral side Door Switch not closing (check switch and door latch assembly) Note: Neutral side door switch only used for heater circuit
  • Water not coming in or lack of water (check inlet valve circuit and water pressure)
  • Lack of water circulation (pump motor or restriction in circulation channels)
  • Siphoning of water during fill (check drain hose for proper installation)

To reset the control press these buttons in this sequence: Heated Dry, Normal, Heated Dry, Normal and then let the unit run for 2-3 minutes and then you press the Cancel/Drain button and allow it to completely drain and reset. The dishwasher will run and operate normally unless it does not detect a water temperature rise again. The image below will provide a diagram of the heater circuit. If the door switch is the problem, then it will read open (infinity) on the resistance. I hope this helps. If you need further assistance, please reply to this thread. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
June 16, 2013
A:

Thanks. I checked for the door switch earlier and did the same just now. It is open when not actuated, but if I push down on the "plunger" then the audible test for resistance passes. Attaching the picture just to confirm I'm looking at the correct switch. I can't make out if the plunger engages when the door is closed.

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Anonymous -
June 17, 2013
A:

The door is not making the full connection with the dishwasher. This incomplete circuit is causing you problem. Check to make sure that the door is closing flush with the unit. If it is, then replace the door switch. Please let me know if you need anything else. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
June 18, 2013
A:

Thanks AnneJ. I bypassed the latch by taping up the two switch activators. That didn't solve the problem, though I could open up the door without stopping the cycle to see what was happening during the diags. Finally the problem turned out to be with the motor not moving the impeller. Some cleanup, WD-40 and forcefully moving the shaft helped. Now the motor is running and the arms are spraying water. Thanks for your help.

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Anonymous -
June 21, 2013
A:

I am happy that you were able to get your dishwasher working. Please let us know if you need anything else. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
June 23, 2013
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