Model #65 HOOVER Vacuum, Upright

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Question and Answers

Q:

How do I get my icemaker to work? There is no ice/water in the system anywhere.

A:

I see you are having problems with your Ice Maker not working properly, I can see how frustrating it may be. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question. I found the Manual for your Ice Maker. I attached the link below. Hope this helps!

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Dezeray S -
October 20, 2010
A:

Thank you for the attachment; however, that item did not help me; I have the user manual which you attached. That's what I used to do my earlier diagnostics. I am looking for the links to the actual repair manual and schematic websites which I can use to get additional diagnostic information and do some electrical troubleshooting. I would like to verify power is at the valve, I would like to see if a power bypass jumper actually activates the valve (that is, apply power direct to the valve). If it doesn't activate, the valve is dead and would need to be replaced. My suspicion is either the water in the line at the entry valve has frozen or the water inlet valve has failed. I'm not sure how I would check the water flow at the valve itself without making a mess.

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Space Station -
October 20, 2010
A:

I will provide you with detailed technical information and troubleshooting to help you diagnose and repair this problem. First, I recommend verifying that you have proper water flow through the water dispenser in the freezer door. If water flow is weak, I recommend that you pull the water filter out and see if the water pressure and flow through the door dispenser improves. The housing for the filter has an automatic bypass so that water will flow properly with the filter removed.

If water flow significantly increases with the filter pulled out, I recommend that you leave it out and see if the ice maker will begin producing ice within a few hours. You will need to replace the water filter if this tip helps. This basic troubleshooting should not be overlooked. You may have already checked this issue.

The next step in troubleshooting is to check the diagnostic test system on the level sensing control boards on the side walls of the freezer. The first image below shows how to check the diagnostics on the control boards. If the red LED light flashes twice and the pauses and repeats when you open the door then it is likely working okay. Press in the flapper on the left side so that the beam is unblocked. The red LED should turn solid. If it does then the control boards should be okay. If the control boards are apparently bad, then they will need to be replaced. Unplug the refrigerator to disconnect power before accessing internal components. The second image shows how to replace these control boards. You can order a kit that has both boards from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the kit is 4389102.

If the level sensing control boards are okay, I recommend that you unplug the refrigerator and pull the ice maker module out. The third image shows how to remove the ice maker module. Carefully remove it and check the water fill tube protruding down from the roof of the freezer to see if it is frozen. If it is, then defrosting this line may fix your ice maker problem.

If the water fill tube is not frozen, I recommend that you replace the ice maker and manually fill the ice mold with water using a turkey baster or squirt bottle. See if the ice maker will cycle and eject the ice. Also check to see if the ice maker fills back up with water if it does eject the ice. If the ice maker module will not eject the ice then the module (part 2198597) will need to be replaced.

If the ice maker ejects the frozen cubes but does not refill, then you will need to conduct an advanced technical test to check the water valve. You will need a small piece of insulated wire such as door bell wire to create a "jumper" as shown in the 4th image below. To provide power to the ice maker module to conduct this test, you will need to follow these steps:

  • Unplug the refrigerator and pull out the receiver control board as shown in that 4th image.

  • Carefully place the stripped ends of the jumper wire into the wire harness locations between the yellow wire and the black/white wire in the receiver board harness that is on the side wall of the freezer. This will provide power to the ice maker module when the door switch is in the "open" position. This voltage path is drawn on the partial wiring diagram shown in the 5th image.

Remove the ice maker module as shown in the second image (with the refrigerator still unplugged ). Pull the cover off of the ice maker module to access the test points as shown in the 6th image below. You will need a separate large jumper wire with the ends stripped far enough to reach the contacts inside the test points of the ice maker. Fourteen gauge wire is recommended for this jumper. Place the jumper wire between the L and V terminals to test the water valve (with the refrigerator still _unplugged). Make sure that the wire harness to the ice maker module is plugged in properly. Position the ice maker module to the side (out of the way) and place a cup or container under the fill tube to catch water during this test. Push in on the door switch to simulate the freezer door being closed. Have someone plug in the refrigerator while you hold the door switch in. Once the refrigerator is plugged in, briefly let go of the door switch to see if water flows from the inlet water tube. Unplug the refrigerator as soon as this brief test is completed. If water did flow during this test then the water valve is okay. The ice maker module will need to be replaced since it did not energize the water valve during the harvest cycle.

If the water did not flow during this test then you will need to check the resistance through the circuit. The 7th image below shows how to check resistance through the water valve. You should measure about 300 ohms of resistance through the test points V and N (with the refrigerator still unplugged ). If not, then I recommend that you check the resistance of the ice maker water valve solenoid directly at the valve. The water valve is on the back, bottom portion of the refrigerator behind the service panel. If the valve is bad, it will need to be replaced.

These are complicated technical checks. Be sure that you follow the directions carefully. If you are not completely confident that you can safely diagnose this fairly complicated system, I recommend that you have a service technician repair this failure. Here is a link for the Sears Service website in case you need it: Sears Home Services .

I hope that this is the technical information that you were expecting. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details and we will help you further.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 29, 2011
A:

Here are more images.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
October 21, 2010
A:

This is the final image.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
October 21, 2010
A:

Lyle, thanks for the great info. I would like to list the steps i have taken and hopefully you can direct me on what to do next. i installed a new ice maker module 2198597, still no ice. Then I went onto this website for help. The red led blinking light acted correctly with your checks. I remover the receiver control board and jumped the blk/whi wire with the yellow and the icemaker started moving. It seemed to go through all the cycles but still no ice. With the wires still jumped, I added water to the ice tray with a cup and got ice in my hopper a little while later. When I did the 14guage jumper test on the side of the ice maker I couldn�t get anything to happen (this may have been my fault, im not sure what state the door sw was in during this). Finally I unplugged power and did the resistance tests. I got L&H heater test 73.5 ohms, L&M motor test 5.12 ohms, V&N water valve 1.6 ohms. What�s next? Thanks for your help

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joey -
August 03, 2011
A:

Hello Joey. Your description points to a failure in that water valve or a frozen fill tube. Check that fill tube to see if it is frozen (or clogged). The resistance reading through that water valve circuit from the ice maker module should be around 300 ohms. I recommend that you recheck that resistance reading. You can unplug the refrigerator and carefully place that insulated jumper wire in the harness of the receiver board as described above. Place a 14 gauge insulated jumper wire in the L and V test points on that ice maker module. Make sure that the stripped ends of that 14 gauge jumper wire are long enough so that you are hitting those contacts in side the ice maker module test point holes. Place a cup or container under the fill tube and then push in the freezer door switch and see if you get any water from the fill tube above the ice maker. If the fill tube is clear and you get no water through the fill valve during this test, then the inlet water valve will need to be replaced. I hope that this additional information helps. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
August 03, 2011
A:

NOTE: You will need to plug the refrigerator back in after placing the jumper wires in the receiver board harness and ice maker module in the above procedure. I left that step out in the above response.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
August 03, 2011
A:

hey Lyle, i finally got back to the issue. im not really sure how to check for a frozen tube. i took a wire hanger and sent it into the fill hose hole trying to feel ice and it felt clear. the water in the door works fine. as far as the resistance im still getting 1.8 ohms. i know im hitting the contacts because of how my meter reacts, it shows OL untill it touches the terminals. i followed the steps for the fill tube test and got nothing. could it be my inlet water valve? is this a common failure? how is it replaced? thanks for your help.

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joey -
August 13, 2011
A:

Hello Joey. Based on your description and the resistance reading on fill valve circuit, you will need to replace that inlet water valve assembly. That is not a common failure but it does occur occasionally. You can order that part from Sears PartsDirect.com (see link below). UNPLUG the refrigerator and shut off the water supply. You can follow the basic steps that are shown in the images below to replace that water valve assembly.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 16, 2011
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Q:

Maytag refrigerator control panel lights are flashing and the ice door opens and closes constantly. How do I stop this?

A:

When an appliance doesn't work properly or gives out it can be very disappointing because you don't really know what is wrong with it or you might even have to buy a whole different appliance. A suggestion I have for you while you are waiting on your response from an expert. I found this great link on your appliances. I have attached the link below if you are interested in viewing while waiting on your response from an expert. Hope this helps, good luck

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Dezeray S -
August 23, 2010
A:

This is a known issue and to correct this problem, the control board will need to be replaced. Unfortunately, without a model number, I will not be able to give you any specific information. To get the correct board a complete model and serial number will be needed.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
August 24, 2010
A:

I have the same problem and callled maytag they are going to fix for free because this is a recurring problem with the model i have Call 1-800-688-9900

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Doug -
December 13, 2010
A:

I also had the same problem along with the fridge temp not going below 60 deg F and the ice maker not making ice. My model # is MFI2568AEB. I took Doug's suggestion of calling maytag (1-800-688-9900). They fixed it for free. Thanks Doug.

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Mikie -
May 16, 2011
A:

I also had the same problem. My model # is MFI2568AES purchased in 2007. I called Maytag 1-800-688-9900. They looked up my model number and serial number and found mine to be listed under the recall also. They also took care of scheduling for a service call. Great customenr service.

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AH -
November 21, 2012
A:

I had the exact same problem. When I called I was told it was not covered because my unit was 6 years old. I mention the recall I read about on this site and they said there were no recalls on my frig. When I pushed a little more they finally said they would cover it and set up a appointment. So if they tell you it's not cover hold your ground.

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John -
January 05, 2013
A:

Mine started doing the exact same thing last night. I called Maytag today and she acted like she has never heard of the problem. My refrigerator is only a little over 2 years old. She said my particular model has not had this problem. I told her apparently this is a ongoing problem with any Maytag with the electronic panel. All she kept offering is for me to buy additional warranty for $360!!!! Unbelievable.... I was finally so disgusted I hung up. I will NEVER buy another Maytag appliance. There customer service I experienced today was the worst ever!!!!! Nothing like spending more for the Maytag name and having problems with a $2000 plus appliance in such a short period of time and they do absolutely NOTHING about it.

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Linda -
January 15, 2013
A:

Linda, I'm very sorry about the problem you're experiencing. I know it's frustrating. Now, this is not a problem with any Maytag that has an electronic control panel. I'm attaching a list of the affected models below. Please let me know if your model is on this list. To be able to assist you further, I will need to know the complete model and serial number of your refrigerator and I will be glad to assist you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
January 15, 2013
A:

Scott, mine is not on the list but experiencing the exact same issues.... Model # MFI2569VEM2 Serial# K02523123

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Linda -
January 15, 2013
A:

I am happy to report that Maytag has contacted me today and they are addressing this issue. I didn't get anywhere calling the customer service number, but Emily on their Facebook page was more than happy to help.

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Linda -
January 16, 2013
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Q:

Kenmore dehumidifier 251.50351 no power.

A:

I can understand your concern over your dehumidifier not running.  Especially with the miserable humidity we are experiencing all over the country.  It might be an issue with the PCB board.  Do you hear any clicking when attempting to start the unit?  That might indicate a problem with the compressor.    I have located a link that will discuss your situation in more detail. 
Click here to view the link.  Though this link discusses a different model number,
the mechanics are likely going to be very similar. Keep in mind that an expert will be
responding within the next two business days if not sooner and will likely offer you more information and
instruction. I hope this information will be helpful and have a nice day.

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Henry -
July 11, 2013
A:

Thank you for question. I will provide you with all the information about causes for a dehumidifier. I have included along with your answer some additional informational to help.

There is a humidity selector on most models. The first thing to check is the setting of this control. If it is set too high, the humidity level may have been achieved and the dehumidifier does not need to run. Set it to a lower humidity level and it should start working.
If the unit is running regularly, but the reservoir remains empty, then there is probably a problem with the refrigeration system of the dehumidifier. Get all the dust and dirt out of the inside of the dehumidifier and if there is a filter make sure that it is clean. Some are washable. If it is still not working, Let a repair Sears technician take care of it.

Emptying the reservoir manually becomes a task, there are drain hose attachments for most models. If the reservoir is filling too fast, it usually means that there is a lot of water in the air. If this continues to happen, there is a source of moisture near the dehumidifier. Finding and controlling the source will reduce the expense of continually running the dehumidifier. When installing the bucket make sure it is seated properly. Sometimes we think we did but the metallic metal strip is not making contact to let the unit know it is safe to turn on. If the metallic strip looks like it has contamination. Clean it with a cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol.

A dehumidifier will have really cold evaporator coils on the back of the machine. When moist air is drawn across these coils, the moisture condenses. Occasionally, the air over the coils is too cold, and the condensing water can freeze. Turn off the unit for a little while and let everything thaw out. Some temporary frosting can occur during the first 10 to 15 minutes of operation. If frost or ice remains, the room temperature may be too low for your model. Many non-basement models can not operate below 65 F and will burn out. They become too efficient and cause the evaporator to freeze up. Some basement models operate well down to 38 F by using a de-icing mechanism.

There are several reasons why the unit may appear to run too much. The humidistat may be set to the highest setting. If that’s the case, the unit will not stop running unless the full bucket sensor shuts it off or you lower the setting. Open doors or windows near the dehumidifier may keep the humidity level too high for the unit to turn off. Also, the grill on the front of the unit may be blocked with dust and does not allow for proper airflow. The coils on back may be dirty and will not transfer heat or cool the air sufficiently. Lastly, the area may just be too large for the unit to operate efficiently.

As for your questions. I believe I gave you all the causes with the information provided. This is not an issue with the pcb. But, remember it is very important to maintain the unit so that the pcb board will not develop a problem.

To determine if the unit is worth the repair. I say follow the steps provided to determine if it is something so simple. Or let our service technicians take care of it for you. The following link will provide you with a drop-off location near you. www.SearsHomeServices.com. Good Luck and Thank you.

If you find you will need a part. Visit www.SearsPartsDirect.com.
Please reply to this post with anymore questions.

Thank you for choosing Manage My Life.

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dtova00 -
Sears Technician
July 12, 2013
A:

I have a dehumidifier where it puts out a little water but I know it should be more. Fan works and compresser comes on but not enough output even with control down to lowest. My main question is how to take it apart? There are two screws just where the bucket inserts and on the sides two areas that look like it should separate.

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Deena -
November 17, 2015
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