Model #59679142993 KENMORE Bottom-Mount Refrigerator

  • Door Handles And Accessories
    3 Results
  • Controls And Light Covers
    3 Results
  • Evaporator/freezer Control Assembly
    3 Results
  • Shelving Assembly
    3 Results
  • Cabinet Back And Water Valve
    3 Results
  • Machine Compartment
    3 Results
  • Insulation And Roller Assembly
    3 Results
  • Light Switches And Drain Funnel
    3 Results
  • Door Assembly
    3 Results
  • Ice Maker Assembly
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

Freezer works but frige isn't 59679142993 Kenmore 21" bottom freezer refrigerator

A:

Searspartsdirect.com is always a great resource to find the answers to your parts questions. Your Sears partsdirect expert will research your question and respond within two business days but usually sooner. Thank you for using Searspartsdirect.com!

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Marc -
July 29, 2013
A:

I know that it can be very frustrating to have issues with your refrigerator. When you refrigerator stops cooling but the freezer is still work, will usually indicate that you have frost buildup inside the unit. This is due to the evaporator coils or a condenser being clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer
  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. I hope this helps. If you need further assistance, please reply to this thread. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
July 30, 2013
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Q:

refrigerator runs but is not cooling 59679142993

A:

I am sorry to hear that you are having some issues with your Kenmore refrigerator. When an appliance goes out I usually see money going out the window, either in repair cost, or replacement. Managemylife.com can take the mystery out of the repair. Your expert can help you determine if you should consider replacing or repairing an appliance. I did some research for you at this web page and found an expert answer to a similar question which may shed some light on the problem. If you decide to schedule service, and have a qualified technician to assist you, I have attached the link to searshomeservices.com. I hope this will be useful until your expert can respond. I also provided an excellent article you may find helpful.

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James -
December 21, 2012
A:

Check to see if the compressor is running. If you see no cooling at all in the refrigerator or the freezer while the compressor is running then you could have a bad compressor or a lack of Freon (refrigerant) charge. A service technician would need to diagnose and repair that type of failure since it would require the recovery and recharge of the refrigerant. You can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services .

If the compressor is not running, then you could have a problem with the compressor start relay, the overload or the compressor itself. A wiring failure in the compressor circuit could also cause that problem. You can unplug the refrigerator and check the wiring connections on the compressor. You can also examine the start relay. If you see burnt marks on that start relay, then you may be able to fix the refrigerator by replacing that start device (also called the PTC relay). You can view and order parts for the refrigerator on this page: Kenmore Refrigerator Model 596.79142993 Parts . Be sure that you unplug the refrigerator before accessing and replacing internal components.

If you need more help, reply with additional details and we will assist you further.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
December 22, 2012
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Q:

Trouble shooting the defrost cycle on my Kenmore refrigerator.

A:

I know this type of information can be very helpful for you to have. While you are waiting for your expert answer, I did some research on the unit. I was unable to locate information that would be helpful with regards to your question at this time. Your expert will answer within 24-48 hours with detailed information. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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Barbara H. -
October 28, 2011
A:

Thanks for trying! I would like to turn the heater on manually to verify that it works. Can you find information on that?

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Ignacio -
October 28, 2011
A:

I would also like some help finding the Defrost Timer.... The heating element and the defrost thermostat I can see but do not know where to look for the Timer. Thanks

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Ignacio -
October 28, 2011
A:

Thank you for your question. I'm sorry you are having this problem. Advancing the timer manually is a good check, to help determine what could be causing this problem. The timer is located at the bottom of the unit behind the toe grill (see # 342 in picture). Remove the grill and you will see a small hole in the cover (# 332) to the timer. The timer dial will be located in this hole. Turn the dial slowly until it clicks and the unit stops running. Open the freezer door and in a few minutes, if you can hear a sizzling sound, it means the heating element is on. In this case, the timer # R0131577 will need to be replaced. If nothing happens the heating element and bi-metal (defrost thermostat) will need to be checked. To check these parts, first disconnect power to the unit. Remove everything in the freezer, so the back panel can be removed. With the panel out, you will see the evaporator. The heating element will be at the bottom of it and the bi-metal at the top. Disconnect the wires and place your meter leads on the end of the element wires. If you get a resistance reading, the element will be ok. If you get no reading at all or all zeros, the element # 10428409 will need to be replaced. When checking the bi-metal, the meter should read all zeros. If there is no reading, the bi-metal # 10442411 will need to be replaced. All of these checks must be done when the freezer is still freezing or has frost on the back wall. These parts are available at SearsPartsDirect . I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, reply to this thread and I will be glad to assist you further.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

Safety Notice: Be sure to disconnect the appliance before performing any troubleshooting procedures. If you are not comfortable with doing any voltage checks or repairs that might be recommended, please contact a local service provider for repairs. Be aware that there could be sharp edges inside the appliance that could cause cuts or other injuries to yourself or others.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
October 29, 2011
A:

I have located the timer thanks to your directions and rotated it until it clicked. The fan and compressor stopped and the unit went into defrost mode�. After a wile, I check to see if I could fell the heating element, I have the back plate removed and can see all the coils and the fan, but the heating element was not on. The timer is making little clicking noises, and moving fine, with leads me to believe that it is working fine. Next I tested the heating element. It gave me a reading of 29.0 Good right? That leaves the bi metal. It has not given me any readings�.is that a signal of it being bad? Can I bypass the bi metal to verify that the heating element works? I appreciate all your help.

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Ignacio -
October 29, 2011
A:

It appears you have done a very nice job of checking this. Based on the information listed, it does sound like the bi-metal has failed and yes, the bi-metal can be jumped, to check the heating element. However, I would not recommend leaving it jumped. Only jump it, to check the element. I hope this helps you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
October 31, 2011
A:

Well, my defrost cycle is now working like a charm, and I have not changed any parts yet.....I am not very happy, well, I guess I have mix feelings. So, I guess my work is not done here. I have noted that the timer only runs while the compressor is running, or during the defrost period. Once the temperature is satisfied inside the timers stops. Is that normal? May be the timer was malfunctioning and when I forced to the defrost it kind of got back to working normal..... The bi-metal closes the circuit when it is cold, and opens it when is hot right?

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Ignacio -
November 01, 2011
A:

Yes, the timer will stop running when the thermostat is satisfied and the compressor stops running. You are correct about the bi-metal also, it closes at approx. 20 degrees and opens at approx. 55 degrees. If it now seems to be working, I suspect the timer may have gotten stuck and did not advance. Usually in this case, at some point it will happen again. I hope this will help.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
November 02, 2011
A:

Thanks for your input. IT has really helped. I will have to keep an eye on it and see what happens. For now I will keep the back panel off so its ease for me to see the ice collection on the coils. I appreciate all your help. It has been much easier to trouble shoot this problem with your help. Thanks Again.

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Ignacio -
November 02, 2011
A:

Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
November 03, 2011
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