Model #59676513500 KENMORE Bottom-Mount Refrigerator

  • Handles & Trim
    3 Results
  • Left Refrigerator Door
    3 Results
  • Right Refrigerator Door
    3 Results
  • Freezer Door
    3 Results
  • Ref Dr Storage & Center Hinges
    3 Results
  • Controls
    3 Results
  • Refrigerator Shelving
    3 Results
  • Interior Cabinet
    3 Results
  • Freezer Shelving
    3 Results
  • Evaporator Area & Rollers
    3 Results
  • Compressor
    3 Results
  • Cabinet Back
    3 Results
  • Ice Maker 61005508
    3 Results
  • Supplemental Information
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

refrigerator too cold runs longer than normal replaced control board twice in couple months how to trouble shoot thermostat why is control going out quicky

A:

Managemylife.com is a great place to find the answers to just about anything, especially on appliances. I would suggest that you provide a little more information such as the make and the model # of your product so your expert will be able to provide you the best possible answer. Just click on reply below and the provide the required data.

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Jackie S -
July 15, 2011
A:

I doubt the control is causing the temperature in your refrigerator to be too cold.

If your refrigerator is a side by side or a bottom freezer model, the problem is probably in the damper control that regulates the amount of air coming into the refrigerator. If your refrigerator is a top freezer model the damper assembly is probably not closing properly.

If you have more questions, reply at the bottom of this thread and include the model number of the refrigerator. I will be glad to help.

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Jimmy K -
Sears Technician
July 18, 2011
A:

My refrigerator is a Kenmore Elite (bottom freezer model): model number 596.76513500. I will elaborate on the problem that I continue to have. My problem: The temperature in the refrigerator goes down on its own. The digital readout will be set for 39 or 40 and the next time the refrigerator is opened, it reads 33. This happens sporadically but it has cost us alot in food and produce. In addition, the control board itself becomes non-responsive to the touch controls (I cannot move the temperature up or down). This is the second control board that I have purchased because I was told this could be the only problem based upon the problems I described. I do not have any problems with temperature fluctuations on the freezer portion of the unit.

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ryan -
August 09, 2011
A:

Thanks for your help Jimmy.

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ryan -
August 09, 2011
A:

Thanks for sending the model of the refrigerator and the additional information. Have you replaced the control board inside the refrigerator or the one mounted in the compressor compartment? The control board inside the refrigerator sends voltage to the lower board and the lower board sends voltage to the damper control motor. It is possible, a wire connection on one of the boards or the damper control is not tight. I would take the control out of the compressor compartment and check the connections of the bu/red and yl/red wires. Disconnect the power to the refrigerator before removing any panels. Remove the damper control from the rear of the refrigerator compartment and rotate the damper door open and closed by hand. Check the wiring connections inside the damper control for tightness. If the damper door is sticking you should replace the damper assembly. The control getting unresponsive indicates a wiring connection. Check all the wiring connections closely.

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Jimmy K -
Sears Technician
August 09, 2011
See more answers
Q:

What will make a knocking noise and cause the refrigerator to stop cooling?

A:

This type of noise could be from the damper, or maybe the evaporator motor fan blade hitting against an ice build-up. Sometimes the damper can make a clicking type noise and it may not be opening now. If it doesn't open to allow air flow, the fridge section will stop cooling. You can check to see if there is air flow out of the diffuser and if you don't feel any air flow, the damper will probably be the problem.

Check the back wall in the freezer and if you notice a frost build-up it can be stopping the fan from turning. This will have the same effect as the damper (no air flow). The noise could have been the fan blade hitting the ice building up around it. If this is the case, the problem will usually be a defrost problem. In this case, for now you can turn the unit off, to let the ice thaw and allow the fan blade to turn again. If you need more assistance you can resubmit your question with more details.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
July 09, 2009

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