Model #59675232404 KENMORE Bottom-Mount Refrigerator

  • Cabinet
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  • Freezer Liner
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  • Freezer Door
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  • Refrigerator Liner
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  • Refrigerator Door
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  • Unit
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  • Shelf
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  • Icemaker
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Question and Answers

Q:

drain pan installation 596.75232404

A:

Good morning... I can fully understand your concern regarding this issue. I did locate a link that will discuss this situation in greater detail. Keep in mind that an expert will be responding within the next two business days if not sooner and will likely offer you more information and instruction. I hope this link will help guide you as to removing and installing your drain pans and have a nice day.

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Henry -
January 10, 2013
A:

Henry, Good morning ... afternoon now here .... I would appreciate the link. Thank you. Harry

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Harry -
January 10, 2013
A:

Henry, Are you there? I found no link in your response. Can you send it please?

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Harry -
January 10, 2013
A:

Thanks for the inquiry about replacing the drain pan on your refrigerator, I will be glad to assist you.
The drain pan is located in the machine compartment, and is mounted on the base pan for the compressor, condenser fan and condenser coil.
Always disconnect power supply before servicing the appliance and be cautious of any sharp metals while accessing components >br> You will need to remove the back panel to access the screws that hold the base pan in place , slide the base pan out with caution as the condensing unit will all come out and with sealed system tubing involved cautio0n is critical.(any damage to tubing will cause complete failure of refrigeration process) Once you have the base pan out enough to reach drain pan area then the fan and shroud will need to be removed to replace the drain pan, be sure to take note of how you disassemble so it can be reassembled in reverse order. There are no written instructions or videos for this process, probably because it�s a rare repair.
I have added an image that shows the parts breakdown of the condensing area, this will help you with the project.

Ron H.
If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services .

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Ron H -
Sears Technician
January 11, 2013
A:

Here is the image.

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Ron H -
Sears Technician
January 11, 2013
A:

Thank you for the response. I cannot locate any screws which you mention in: "You will need to remove the back panel to access the screws that hold the base pan in place". Where are they located? (Or is it possible they have been eliminated in my model and I simply need to slide the base pan backwards - perhaps lifting the rear of the refrigerator before doing so? I'm reluctant to try prying it loose if there are "hidden" screws.)

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Harry -
January 11, 2013
A:

Still waiting for a reply to the previous follow-up question.

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Harry -
January 18, 2013
A:

Hello Harry. Sorry that you did not receive a response to that follow-up question. I suspect that the screws were eliminated on that model. It is difficult to tell without seeing the components. Maybe you can send us some digital pictures of the drain pan and surrounding components. We will try to assist you further once we receive those pictures.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 18, 2013
A:

Lyle, Ron or whoever, Well, I thank you for your efforts to help. The conversation has been somewhat helpful but my own creativity and careful observation were also necessary to solve the problem. For your info the solution was to lift the back of the refrigerator (by tilting it forward) and support it so the underside could be reached. There are screws there which require star type wrenches. And there was no need to slide the pan backwards! Simply removing the two screws on the side where the drain pan resides caused the end of the metal tray to drop enough that with careful maneuvering it was easy to remove the pan/fan combo. Replacement of the pan was fairly easy (the fan slides off once it is out of the refrigerator). As you suggested, care was necessary to not damage the copper coolant lines during removal and replacement of the pan. In retrospect, the bad pan was no doubt damaged at the factory or perhaps during the delivery of the unit to our home. You had indicated this was a rare repair. It would seem that once installed there would be no reason for it to become cracked as it now is. I have taken pictures of the old pan but don't see how to include them. If you would like to see them let me know where to send them and I will be glad to. Thanks for your help. Harry Stone El Paso, TX

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Harry -
January 21, 2013
A:

Hello Harry, Good work, glad you were able to solve the problem.
Ron H.

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Ron H -
Sears Technician
January 22, 2013
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Q:

How to check control panel 596.75232404

A:

Good afternoon.... I can understand your concern and you've done a good job at trying to get to the bottom of this problem. I did locate a link that will discuss this situation in greater detail. Keep in mind that an expert will be responding within the next two business days if not sooner and will likely offer you more information and instruction. I hope this link will help guide you as to what might wrong with your refrigerator and have a nice day.

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Henry -
December 20, 2012
A:

Hi,

Thank you for asking this question and allow me to answer it this way.

To check to make sure gain access to the control and on the j1 connector, when you force defrost; there will be 120 volts AC on the brown wire. Measure the brown wire to the white wire, which the neutral wire for the board. Then using the white wire on the J1 measure to the J2 orange wire, if the defrost thermostat is operational the orange wire will have 120 volts AC. If not the defrost bi-metal is faulty. If 120 volts AC is measured there the heater should be on, if not replace the heater. Force the defrost by following the photo directions.
Live voltage checks are dangerous, and possibly deadly. Exercise caution at all times.

I hope this answer is useful and that it helps you correct the problem with your appliance.
Thank you for using ManageMyLife.

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Bill__W -
Sears Technician
December 21, 2012
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Q:

kenmore refrigerator model 596-75232404 ice maker not working after moving

A:

Having your ice maker fail can be very frustrating and sometimes costly. I did some research and provided a link to a similar question and answer on our site. I hope this will give you a better idea on the next step to take until the Expert responds to your question in more detail within 24 to 48 hours.

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Julio -
November 03, 2012
A:

I know that it can be very frustrating to have issues with your ice maker. There are several reasons for this type of problem to happen. These include the temperature, the water or the ice maker itself. The temperature of the freezer must be below 25 degrees before the ice maker will begin cycling. If you just plugged the refrigerator in at its new location, it could take a while before the freezer cools down and the ice maker begins cycling. Check the water dispenser on the freezer door to make sure that it is working properly. This will verify that you have a good water supply provided to the back of the refrigerator. If the water dispenser is not working, you may need to change the water filter if your refrigerator uses one. Check the water supply cut-off valve for the line going to the refrigerator to make sure that it is open. Shut the valve and remove the water line on the back of the refrigerator. Place the end of the line in a bucket and briefly turn on the water supply to check for proper water pressure and flow. If the water supply is inadequate, you may need to have a plumber fix the water supply line for the refrigerator. Check the water supply tube that protrudes into the freezer to fill your ice maker mold. If this tube is frozen, the ice maker will not fill and cycle. Defrost the tube if necessary. Make sure that the ice maker is turned on. Some ice makers have a switch and others have a metal arm on the side of the module that must be in the "down" position. I hope this helps. If you need further assistance, please reply to this thread. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
November 04, 2012
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