Model #59661862100 KENMORE Bottom-Mount Refrigerator

  • Door Handles/accessories
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  • Cover, Hinges/light Covers
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  • Evaporator/freezer Control
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  • Refrig. Feature And Shelf
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  • Crisper/freezer Feature
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  • Machine Compartment
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  • Insulation And Roller
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  • Light Switches/drain Funnel
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  • Door
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  • Cabinet Back
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  • Icemaker
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Question and Answers

Q:

Kenmore Refrigerator Bottom Freezer no longer working properly

A:

Hi, I found that when I need to do some trouble shooting 1 of the best ways to do so is going to Manage My Life and click on the top where it says manuals. If that doesn't work then my next step to advise you to do is call or visit the website for Sears Home Services and schedule an appointment with a technician.1-800-424-2047. I attached the links below. Hope I was some kind of help.

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Raquel F -
June 15, 2010
A:

Your symptoms are unusual. You indicate that you have frost on the back wall of the freezer but that the refrigerator is cooling properly. The frost on the back wall of the freezer points to an automatic defrost system problem. Since the refrigerator is still cooling properly, you could have a defrost bi-metal thermostat that is opening too soon to shut off the evaporator defrost heater before the evaporator is fully defrosted. To restore cooling to the unit, you can try storing the food and then manually defrosting the unit by unplugging it and leaving the doors open for 24 hours. The evaporator should then completely defrost. The refrigerator and freezer will then probably cool properly for a while. If the frost returns on the back wall of the freezer, then you will need to try additional troubleshooting steps. The defrost timer for this unit is in the front of the refrigerator behind the bottom toe grill. Remove the toe grill and manually advance the defrost timer until the compressor clicks off (open the freezer door until the compressor is running before advancing the defrost timer if necessary). Once the compressor clicks off, stop advancing the defrost timer. The evaporator heater should then be energized and you should hear some ticking and dripping behind the back wall of the freezer as the frost is melted from the evaporator. If this happens then you know that the heater is working and the wiring circuit through the heater is okay. The refrigerator should stay in the defrost mode for about 30 minutes before the timer advances to shift back into the regular cooling mode and the compressor starts again. If the defrost timer is not advancing then it will need to be replaced. If the defrost heater does not turn on to melt frost off of the evaporator then you could have a failed heater, a bad defrost bi-metal thermostat, a bad contact in the timer or a wiring failure in the circuit.

A number of other problems could cause a cooling problem in the unit. Make sure that the condenser fan is running and that the condenser coils are clean. You could have a low Freon charge or a problem with the compressor. A service technician would need to diagnose and repair a sealed system problem. Here is a link for the Sears Service website if you need it: Sears Home Services .

If you need more help with this cooling problem, submit more details based on the information provided above. We will be glad to assist you further.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
June 17, 2010
A:

Lyle, thanks for the comprehensive response. I will begin defrosting the freezer and see where that takes me.

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David -
June 17, 2010
A:

Lyle, I unplugged the refrigerator for 24hrs to perform a complete defrost; plugged it back in and then restocked it. It seemed to perfom well for a couple of weeks then I noticed that the food in both the freezer and refrigerator were not as cold as they were after plug-in. The frost has also returned to the back of the freezer. I removed the front toe grill and manually advanced the defrost timer (P/N 10530703) until the compressor fan stopped running. During this period, I didn't hear the sound of the heater running or water dripping. After some time the compressor fan turned on again. Using an ohm meter & wiring schematic I manually cycled the defrost timer and measured the resistance across the contacts as noted below. Defrost Mode contact pair 1-4 = OPEN contact pair 1-2 = 0.7 ohms contact pair 3-2 = OPEN contact pair 3-4 = 3.6 ohms Cooling Mode contact pair 1-4 = 0.6 ohms contact pair 1-2 = OPEN contact pair 3-2 = 225-255 Kohms (effectively OPEN) contact pair 3-4 = OPEN

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David -
July 15, 2010
A:

I also measured the voltage across the contact pairs as noted below: Defrost Mode contact pair 3-1 = 0.214 VAC contact pair 3-2 = 0.214 VAC contact pair 3-4 = 0.018 VAC Cooling Mode contact pair 3-1 = 0.210 VAC contact pair 3-2 = 0.021 VAC contact pair 3-4 = 0.210 VAC To me, it appears as if the defrost timer is performing properly. Do you agree? Are there any other simple checks that I can perform w/o completely disassembling the unit? Thanks in advance,

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David -
July 15, 2010
A:

Lyle, Please disregard the previous resistance and voltage measurements as they were incorrect. I remeasured with these revised results (see attached)

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David -
July 18, 2010
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