Model #580326740 CRAFTSMAN Generator

  • Control Panel
    3 Results
  • Engine
    3 Results
  • Crankcase Assembly
    3 Results
  • Carburetor
    3 Results
  • Muffler Assembly
    3 Results
  • Flywheel Assembly
    3 Results
  • Governor Lever Assembly
    3 Results
  • Oil Switch/filter And Recoil Starter
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

portable generator

A:

Thank you for your question.

I am sorry you are having a problem with the generator. Based on the symptoms you are having, I suspect you are having a problem with the voltage regulation in the unit. I say that only because you are getting some voltage out of the unit. I found a great video that shows how to check the regulation system on your model. Click here to watch the video.

 

Once you determine the problem, you can order the parts from the following link. Replacement parts for a Craftsman generator model 580.326740 

 

Thank you for using Manage my life.

Mark.

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Mark T -
Sears Technician
November 18, 2013
Q:

Need help on generator that is broken

A:

I can definitely understand your concern over wanting to know what has caused your generator to malfunction. While you are waiting for your expert answer, I did some research on the unit. At this time, I was unable to locate information that would be helpful in regards to your question. Some of these questions that are asked will need specific research and will be answered by an expert with-in two business days but usually sooner.

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Julio -
November 19, 2012
A:

Most likely the control board took the hit and will need to be replaced. The board should be located behind the control panel (where the plugs are). If you're lucky, only the control board will be bad. It's possible that the stator also took a hit as well. You can check for resistance across the stator wires to see if there is an open circuit there to determine if it's bad or not.

When you remove the panel, there should be a schematic in the compartment. You'll need to check for resistance across the pairs that lead back to the stator. Depending on your model, there could be 2 or more wire pairs that go back to the stator.

Working on these can be a bit daunting and you may want to take it in and have it looked at and repaired by a professional, but it certainly won't hurt for you to open the panel up and have a look around. It's usually really bad when a "back feed" happens and in many cases it's cheaper to replace the generator than it is to replace all the burnt out parts.

Let me know what you find.

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Wade_B -
Sears Technician
November 21, 2012
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Q:

Oil pressure switch for generator

A:

Having the generator up and running is very important. I did some research and I show that the manufacturer substituted the part number to the part you received 99236. Your expert will be able to give you a more detailed answer on connecting the switch. It will take about 24-48 hours.

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Marc H -
March 13, 2012
A:

Yes, a generator is very important especally in the spring for the sump pump. Do not need a flooded basement. Thank you Dave

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David -
March 13, 2012
A:

I don't have a schematic or show any notes on the part differences for this. On the old switch, you said that both wires went to 1 terminal. On the new switch are there 2 terminals? If you have a way to take a photo (and upload it here) of the new switch, the old switch, and the wires involved it would certainly help.



Thank you for using Manage My Life!

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XX Wade_ -
Sears Technician
March 14, 2012
A:

The new switch has two terminals. one that has [nc] on it. Which I guess means normally closed. The second terminal has a [C] on it, which the instuctions states to hook up the green wire that came with it to the [C] terminal and hook the other end of the green wire to the frame of the generator [ which I take as a ground wire] I did this and also hooked up both yellow wires from the generator to the NC terminal and it runs just fine, but I do not know if the switch is working for sure or if I just bypassed the oil pressure switch. What do you think? Thanks Wade Dave

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David -
March 14, 2012
A:

I think you bypassed the switch. But I want to make sure. Can you put the old switch back in place but then leave the new switch connected? If so, do that and then start the generator. If it will not start or will not stay running then it's okay and you can put the new switch back in and run the generator. If the engine starts when you have the switch out but connected then the switch has been bypassed.

I'm still trying to find a schematic for this engine.

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XX Wade_ -
Sears Technician
March 14, 2012
A:

I bypassed the old switch when I was waiting for the part. This is how I did it. I took the two yellow wires off the switch and Left the two wires connected, but off the switch and it did not run, so I left the two yellow wires spead apart [ not touching each other or the switch] and the generator worked, so my question is that now I put the new switch in and I have both wires connected to the same terminal NC [they are again touching each other] and the generator runs. This should tell me that the new switch works, right?

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David -
March 14, 2012
A:

Yes, you are correct. I'm sorry I've not had immediate answers on this thing. When I don't have a schematic to go by, it just throws me for a loop since I can't see it. But it sounds like, despite me, you got everything back as it should be.

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XX Wade_ -
Sears Technician
March 14, 2012
A:

I have one more question on the generator. I did not know for sure that my problem was the oil switch because the red light that comes on when you do not have enough oil pressure did not come on until the motor killed and was losing rpm's. Do you know why the light did not come on when the motor was running for 10 seconds before it shut down by itself?

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David -
March 14, 2012
A:

That could have possibly been part of switch failure. The switch is a type of sending unit. If the oil pressure is low it kills the engine and sends some voltage (in a round about way) to the warning light. The warning light set up on this model is not real efficient in regards to letting you know the problem. I believe some of the newer units will shut down and leave the light on for an amount of time (via battery) so if the machine dies you will know 10 minutes later what the problem is. When your machine was made that was not a technology that was in use. For what it's worth, about 5-8 years before yours was made there was no light. The engine would die and you had to check for fuel, plugged line, oil sensor, and a few other things to figure out what went wrong.

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XX Wade_ -
Sears Technician
March 14, 2012
A:

thank you for your time and know how!!!

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David -
March 14, 2012
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