Model #41790412701 KENMORE Residential Dryer

  • Cabinet/drum
    3 Results
  • Front Panel/lint Filter
    3 Results
  • Control/top Panel
    3 Results
  • Motor
    3 Results
  • Burner
    3 Results
  • Wiring Diagram
    3 Results
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Error Codes

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Condition:

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Question and Answers

Q:

Washer stacking and energy use question Kenmore (417.44102300/417.90412701) and Whirlpool (WFW8300SW05)

A:

Wanting to know if your appliance is stacking is a really great question. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question, you can visit Sears Parts Direct website to speak with a Sears associate to find out if this is stack able. I have attached the link below. Have a nice day!

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Dezeray -
August 04, 2012
A:

I can understand how important it is to have the right information for your appliances. First the Kenmore dryer and the whirlpool washer will not fit together. These we made by two different manufactures, so they will not align properly if you stack them. Most Kenmore washers will work with the whirlpool washers, but they have to be the same dimensions and the same maker. This is the only way to ensure that the stacking kit will work.

Second the Kenmore washer will use 224 kilowatt hours per year, and the whirlpool will use 176 kilowatt hours per year. I hope this helps. If you need further assistance, please reply to this thread. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
August 05, 2012
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Q:

2009 Kenmore dryer does not heat, thermostat has continuity model 417.90412701

A:

I know that it can be difficult to not have your appliances working properly. While you are waiting for your expert answer, I have found a link that will provide some information on the issue. I would suggest that you test the thermal fuse, the thermal cut off, and the second thermostat. Any of these will cause the same problem. I hope this helps.

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aashe -
August 29, 2011
A:

Thanks, The parts I tested were accessible by removing the top of the machine. How do I access the other thermostat?

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Stan -
August 29, 2011
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

In order for your gas dryer to heat; the voltage supply must be supplied to the igniter and the igniter must glow red. There are several other components connected in series with the igniter that will need to be disconnected and tested for continuity. I added the wiring diagram in the image below to reference.. I traced the circuits in red and green. The operating thermostat, sensor and igniter is must be accessed from the front of the dryer. The front panel will have to be taken off in order to access the igniter, operating thermostat and igniter. The operating thermostat is located on the face of the blower wheel housing. You may also need to check the voltage supply coming out of the timer at terminal "A" whenever the timer is turned to dry.

NOTE: I do not recommend checking voltage unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so; otherwise I recommend calling service.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
August 31, 2011
A:

Thanks, How do I get the front panel off?

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Stan -
August 31, 2011
A:

Stan: I added an image below with the instructions for removing the front panel.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
September 02, 2011
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Q:

How do I change my Kenmore dryer model 417.90412701 from rear exhaust to right side exhaust?

A:

I checked the model number you provided and the kit you purchased is the correct part.

The dryer comes set up to vent out the rear and the kit will include a 90 degree elbow. You need to remove the straight vent pipe and replace it with the elbow vent pipe.

The dryer cabinet has round knock outs located on the sides and bottom. (See 2nd image) These can be removed with a flat blade screw driver and hammer. The knock outs are attached to the cabinet with a spot weld that will have to be broken with the screwdriver and hammer. You can try to bend them out then bend them back and forth to weaken the spot weld.

First remove the lower access panel. See the first image below. You don't have to prop it up on a 2x4 like the picture to access the two screws.

With the front access panel removed in the rear is a small access panel next to the vent that needs to be removed.. See the 2nd image for a picture of this. Note the screw holding the vent pipe in that will need to be removed. With the screw out the pipe should pull straight out.

With the front lower access panel removed and the rear access removed you may be able to swap the straight vent pipe out with the 90 degree vent pipe. If the access seems tight and you can't install the 90 degree vent pipe then the 2nd image contains the procedure to remove the front panel and the drum for wide open access to the vent pipe.

I hope this information helps resolve your problem but if you get stuck then submit another question with any additional details for further assistance.

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Landell -
Sears Technician
December 01, 2009

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