Model #3811 PEERLESS Faucet

  • Single Handle Washerless Lavatory Faucets
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Question and Answers

Q:

toshiba 55sl417u shutting off

A:

Having an non working TV can ruin anyone Sunday especially now that foot ball season is here. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question, I suggest you set service with a Sears technician. I have attached the link below. Hope this helps!

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Dezeray -
September 17, 2012
A:

I have look for any information to assist you and talk with several others about your issue. All I can say is it is a data issue between the app and the TV. The only thing that might fix the problem would be to replace the main board, but that might not even fix the problem. I would contact Toshiba customer service @ (800) 631-3811.

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Dusty J -
Sears Technician
September 20, 2012
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Q:

Why does my Kenmore washer 110.47512602 have an F01 error?

A:

I know how important it is to have the washer in your home working properly so that you can keep your clothes nice and clean. While you are waiting for an expert answer, I did manage to find a link that will provide you with more information about what may be causing your problem. I hope my link is useful.

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Joseph P. -
February 07, 2011
A:

The F01 error indicates the following:

  • EEPROM Error
    • A communication error between the Central Control Unit, and the EEPROM onboard the CCU occurred.

  • Pump drive error
    • The pump driver fails to activate

  • Main relays error
    • One of the main relays is not working properly

1. The Central Control Unit would be the User Interface key# 3 part# 8574969

2. I have provided an attachment below with instructions about replacing the CCU

3. The bracket may be a separate piece that you'd have to purchase. To view the parts diagram, please click the following link: Sears PartsDirect . The link will take you directly to the control board parts diagram.

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Kay W. -personal Solutions manager -
Sears Technician
February 08, 2011
A:

Kay, Thanks for the pics and instructions as they will be useful when the part comes in from Appliance Zone ($93 + 15 for 2-3 day shipping which is way cheaper than Sears @$101.50+lots for shipping faster) hopefully by Saturday 2/12/11. You are right and wrong at the same time! It's ok as other contacts with MML have alternated in recommending either of the following two parts. I agree that the pictures you indicate are for the CCU, however, for this model #110.47512602, the breakout drawings show that part #3 and part #6 both have the same name "Electronic Control" are actually different. The CCU in the picture is actually part #6 pn: W10110073 (which is substituted by pn: W10205848) also evidenced by other pictures of the part online. My gut initially told me to expect keyboard looking part #3 that you mentioned (pn: 8574969, Sears $170.63) to be the one to replace since it's the most expensive part, but it appears I was wrong in this case. Thanks again!

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Anonymous -
February 09, 2011
A:

So, the part W10205848 I ordered from Appliance Zone on Tuesday 3/8/11 at 4:30 pm arrrived on Wednesday 3/9/11 mid-day. So I got home, installed it and the washer was working fine. BEFORE replacing this part, remember to take video/pics and make a paper diagram describing each of the many connectors so you can put them back in the right spot. Only one 10 minute setback tha I don't think anyone would really notice at first... "BEFORE" starting check the CCU tabs (see 2nd attachment from Kay W above) as my CCU tabs that go into the key holes needed some "physical adjustment." The top fat part of the tab that fits in at the start of the keyhole was fine. The thinner part of both tabs on my old unit were flattened a few millimeters on the top and bottom so it would slide firmly sideways the rest of the way into the key hole. After inserting all the connectors, I got it in the keyhole but couldn't slide my new CCU in at all. I saw that my new part wasn't like the old part so I took a dremel tool with a cutting disc to carefully ease the tabs and make them a little flat like the original (a little on the top and little on the bottom of each tab). I think you could also easily use a thin hack saw (gently) if you did it before installing; I don't think a knife or blade would work well and remember there are electronic parts inside. BTW, the connectors come off with a little wiggling while you squeeze the connector lock away. That's easy. I'm looking at the failed CCU boards to see if I can ID the parts and maybe replace them(?) so I can be ready when the new board fails. It took about 30 minutes to install and start it again, then 15 minutes to put tools away, etc.

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Sean -
February 10, 2011
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