Model #375 WAGNER Power sprayer

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Question and Answers

Q:

Need software update for my Kenmore sewing machine 19000 Model # 385.93200 so it will work with Windows 7. Is this even possible?

A:

When it comes to updating you software it can be challenging. I have taken the time to research and have located a link that you may find useful. While you are waiting for a detailed reply from an expert I have attached the link below.

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Priscilla V -
September 15, 2011
A:

Thank you for your question on the software upgrade for you 19000.

I do not think that you can upgrade that model but just to be sure I have a call into the software customer support group at the manufacturer.

I have not heard back from them yet.

I will save this call and contact them again on Monday the 19th.

Thank you for your patience on this software matter.

Sam A.

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Sam A -
Sears Technician
September 16, 2011
A:

Update on the 19000 software upgrade. It has been confirmed by the manufacture what I had thought, in that your 385.190000 cannot be up graded to Windows 7. I am sorry that this is the case. That machine was one of the early electronic models and was not build with that ability. However my wife has discovered over the all these years we have had the machine that it is her favorite for quilt piecing since it has done over 375 quilts tops and top stitching. I hope you will continue to use Kenmore branded sewing machines. Sam A.

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Sam A -
Sears Technician
September 23, 2011
A:

Do you have the link that Priscilla V. refers to????? I have my software working with Windows 8.1.

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Jackie -
October 05, 2015
A:

I am looking for the manual for the R/W 19001. I forgot how to use it and need the manual. I know that it was also called #93200.

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Jackie -
October 05, 2015
A:

I am looking for the manual for the R/W 19001. I forgot how to use it and need the manual. I know that it was also called #93200.

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Jackie -
October 05, 2015
A:

I am looking for the manual for the R/W 19001. I forgot how to use it and need the manual. I know that it was also called #93200.

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Jackie -
October 05, 2015
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Q:

the heating elements work but are not consistance with the thermostat reading. 91148469690 Kenmore 27

Q:

my frontload kenmore elite dryer control panel wont light up, but the light inside the dryer comes on. model # 110.85081401

A:

With the dryer not functioning properly can be rather frustrating. After researching your issue on the Manage My Life website I have located a similar link towards your issue. While you are waiting for a detailed reply from an expert I have provided the link below. Hope this helps!

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Priscilla V -
September 06, 2012
A:

You could have a problem with a wiring connection or one of the control boards in the dryer. I recommend that you check the wiring connections first. Here is a link for a previous answer that describes how to access the machine control board and check the wiring connections: Why won't my HE4 dryer power up the console? .

If the wiring connections are okay, I recommend that you have a service technician examine the dryer and repair it. Here is a link for the Sears Service website: Sears Home Services .

If you want to repair the dryer yourself and need more help, reply with additional details and we will assist you further.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 07, 2012
A:

Kyle, I've seen a lot of posts related to this issue and this one seems to be the most recent and you seem to be one of the most responsive. I am having similar issues. Symptoms: Dryer is unresponsive to controls. It has power and I've tested with both the breaker on/off and power cord in/out. The Check Lint Screen LED - on The Control Locked LED - on The Bulky/Bedding LED - very dimly lit The Estimated Time Remaining display LCD has two dashes: - - very dimly lit Diagnostics: I have attempted to unlock the controls by holding the Auto Dry Level for greater than 3 seconds. I have tried removing power for greater than 5 minutes. I have completely cleaned out all dust/lint from all surfaces of the inside of the dryer, console boards, console boards, lint screen, etc. All failed. I am unable to enter Diagnostics Test Mode per page 1 (More Time > Less Time > More Time > Less Time). There is no change to the console/interface. I have verified that all of the Buttons pass continuity tests using an OHM meter (Test #5 page 8). So, I'm not certain where to turn next. The tests don't really clearly point to one of the other - the Console/interface boards or the Control board?? Information: Model: 110.85872400 Kenmore Elite smartheat QuietPak9 HE4 Dryer Help: I need advice on what to test next or which board needs to be replaced. I don't think they are both bad and I certainly don't want to pay some tech to come out and repeat the same tests. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. v/r Kevin

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Kevin -
September 23, 2012
A:

Hello Kevin. That is an usual failure that may be difficult to diagnose. Your details indicate that you checked the console switches according to the chart in the top of the first image below. Since those switches appear to be working, your failure is less likely to be caused by a bad user interface control board. I provided some additional tests for a dead console in that image. Although your console is not dead, that information may help you perform some additional tests. There is a possibility that a bad temperature sensor or moisture sensor could be dragging down the DC voltage supply to the user interface control. That is just a guess but it may be worth checking out. The second image shows the wiring diagram for your dryer. You can unplug the dryer and check the resistance through the loads connected to that control board. It may be a good idea to check those loads for a short to the cabinet ground (measure resistance between each wire and the bare metal cabinet beside the control board for resistance). A pinched wires that is shorting out to the metal cabinet would provide a resistance reading during that check. There should be not resistance (open load or infinite resistance) between the circuits that are connected to that control board and the cabinet ground. If you suspect that a particular circuit is causing your problem, then you can try unplugging that load and seeing if the console will power up and work properly with that load unplugged. I hope that this additional information helps. We will be glad to continue to assist you with this problem until it is fixed. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 24, 2012
A:

Thanks Lyle. I may have to head home early from work today.to try these out. I will let you know and THANKS so much for your prompt response.

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Kevin -
September 24, 2012
A:

We are always glad to help. We don't work every weekend but we try to respond as quickly as possible. Good luck with your diagnosis. Don't hesitate to ask for more assistance if necessary.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 24, 2012
A:

Started with your follow up test shown in the first image:
1) 120 VAC exists from P1-5 to Neutral and/or the frame.
2) Removed P2, but I don't know what this phrase refers to "If "it" lights up..."?
I assume the "it" is either referring to the light inside the dryer (which has been out for awhile and unrelated) or the console LCD lights?? Either way, I still have the Check Lint Screen and Control Locked lights on.

Continuing to test the other things you mentioned, but I definitely don't have a short to the frame. Tested that first thing.

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Kevin -
September 24, 2012
A:

After removing P2 (the thermistor and moisture sensor) from the equation, I see that by testing the ribbon cable P3 pins 1 through 5 using P3 pin 14 as ground with my voltmeter, I'm only getting 3.75 VDC across the ribbon cable to the console board.

Is that the correct method for testing that voltage?? I don't find that anywhere. So based on what you're telling me, we suspect the control board, but can't rule out the cause of the draw down on the voltage?? By adding the thermistor and moisture sensor back in (reconnecting P2), I see the same voltage, 3.75 VDC, at the ribbon cable.

Also, to answer your other question, the resistance between those loads and the frame is infinite.

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Kevin -
September 24, 2012
A:

Hello Kevin. The additional test that I provided was for a dead console but the checks could be helpful in checking the issues that you are describing. Checking for a short to ground in the loads connected to the control board was an essential part of ruling out other potential causes for this failure. The DC voltage checks for the console were cut off of the above image. I apologize for that mishap. I provided those voltage checks in the image below. If you are not measuring the proper DC voltage from all of those points then the main machine electronic control board will need to be replaced. If you do measure that voltage, then the main machine control board is likely okay but that is not an absolute guarantee. If you are getting the proper DC voltage out of that main machine control board then you will probably need to replace the user interface.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 25, 2012
A:

Hmmm...Ok. Thanks Lyle. Looks like I have a few more pins to test to be certain then. I did test pins P3-1-5, but not P4-4 and 5. I will try to do that at lunch. Thanks for the attached image.

I am concerned about testing for some other load on the board that may have caused this. I am confident that there is no short in the Thermistor or Moisture sensor loads, but I haven't done anything to test resistance from the motor or heater loads. Is that a possible source of the problem?

I checked the thermal fuse and it's good. I checked the thermal cut-off and it's good. Thanks again for all your help Lyle. I assume if I order the Control Board I can get that at Sears PartsDirect?

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Kevin -
September 25, 2012
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