Model #2822A FRIGIDAIRE Free Standing, Gas

  • Backguard
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  • Main Top
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  • Broiler
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  • Oven Door
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  • Burner
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  • Burner Page 2
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  • Basic Body
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  • Basic Body Page 2
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Question and Answers

Q:

Garage door opener goes down 6 inches then reverses. What part is faulty?

A:

I'm sorry about the difficulties you're having with your garage door opener.  While you are waiting for an expert to respond, I have added a helpful link that may provide information to assist you with your question.

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Yadira B -
May 08, 2013
A:

that cup is the rpm sensor cup and if it pulls out of the rpm sensor because the shaft has to much play in it that is most likely the problem. it is an easy fix just push the shaft back in the motor as far as it will go from the front then you will see there are 2 small set screws in the collar at the rear of the shaft loosen those set screws and push the collar up and tighten it back up so when the motor starts to run the shaft wont move the rpm sensor cup out of the sensor. the shaft needs very little play in it just don't jam it to tight.

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TC -
May 09, 2013
A:

also make sure you push the cup back on the shaft as far as it will go when done.

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TC -
May 09, 2013
A:

Thank you for the question and good explanation.  I see Yadira provided a good link for this issue and TC provided what I also believe is the issue. I recommend checking the drive gears. They may be stripped.   Unplug the opener, remove the opener cover   If the gears looked worn or stripped, they will need to be replaced.  For further information, please reply with the garage door opener model number.  Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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Barbara H. -
Sears Technician
May 09, 2013
A:

The Model No. is 139.53650SRT. The drive gears are not stripped. I replaced them aout 1 year ago. I did not try the shaft movement yet that TC recommended. Any further info would be appreciated. Marty

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Marty -
May 09, 2013
A:

Thank you for the model number Marty. Since the door has the same problem with the wall control, I recommend releasing the trolley and checking the operation of the door manually. If the frame, springs or railing are exerting pressure, this can affect the travel adjustments of the door. Open the door half way and then release it. The door should remain in place completely supported by its springs. If the door slowly rises upwards or falls to the floor gently, this is acceptable. If the door slams shut or shoots upward with force, the door is out of balance. If the door fails the balance test, contact a professional door technician. It may also be the travel carriage assembly is broken or worn out. You can try adjusting the travel limits to see if there is any change. If there is no change, open the travel carriage assembly and look for damage or something out of place. You can see an image of the travel carriage at the Sears Parts Direct. I would still check the shaft. If the motor shaft moves back and forth through the motor more than 1/16th of an inch during operation, it could lead to the door traveling only a short distance before reversing. Ensure the motor shaft is tightened enough so that there is not too much play in the shaft end. This is caused by a loose or improperly installed shaft bearing kit. Loosen the set screws on the shaft collar, press firmly on the collar towards the motor, then while applying pressure to the retaining ring tighten the set screws.

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Barbara H. -
Sears Technician
May 09, 2013
A:

Thanks to TC and Barbara for your help, however no of thes suggestions have solved the problem. After further study, I have noticed that the interrupter cup falls off when the trolley stops in the up position. 1. I am testing the opener without connecting the trolley to the garage door. However, Barbara, I did test the dooor and it is out of balance. It falls to the ground when released from the middle position. I would think I can still work on the interrupter problem befpre hiring a garage door tech to balance the door. 2. Barbara, I tightened the shaft collar as you suggested by putting pressure on the retaining ring the tightening. This did result in allowing the trolley to move all the way down and stop. When I pushed the button to go up, it did go all the way up. However, at the end the motor shaft poked back in ,the interrupter cup popped off hitting the rest of the RPM sensor as before. So, the shaft actually goes in too far and I do not know how to correct that. I tried reducing the travel limits but the shaft still moved in toward the motor and the interuptor cupcame off as it ran into the RPM sensor. 3 Is this a motor problem, or a Rpm Sensor or what do you think? Marty

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Marty -
May 10, 2013
A:

Marty, you have to push the motor shaft in from the front and hold it while you push the collar up and tighten it to take the play out of the shaft. that is the problem that is pushing the cup off when the shaft moves to far.

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TC -
May 10, 2013
A:

Thanks TC but I still have the problem. There is nor play in the shaft assenbly. The whole shft assembly moves together. Barbara please keep helping, also. 1.To restate - At the stop point of the trolley in the door up position,The motor shaft(including the shaft,retaining ring, and worm gear moves violently in toward the motor maybe 1 to 2 inches. The interrupter cup hits the RPM sensor and pops off. 2. At the stop point of the trolley in the down position the motor shaft and all its parts moves violently away from the motor about 1 to 2 inches and hits the control board. 3. I have the retaining ring very tight. I see that these violent movements actually cause the horizontal worm gear to fly past the vertical gear for each stop point. 4. I do not think the gears are stripped yet because the trolley and garage door do move OK until the interrupter cup pops off. 5.Again, could this be a RPM sensor or motor problem? 6.What is the purpose or function of the RPM sensor?

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Marty -
May 13, 2013
A:

Marty I'm sorry you are having such a problem with this. but if the whole shaft is moving far enough back and hits the logic board the motor has an issue. because when the shaft is back as far as it will go it should not be touching the logic board. I would think that the motor housing is worn so bad at the back end and that is what is causing the shaft to go that far that it hits the logic board. I have never seen this happen on a opener before and I have repaired about 1,000 openers give or take. so without being there to see it with my own eyes I can only guess. so if you have pushed the shaft assembly back as far as it will go from the front of the motor toward the logic board and held it there then slide the collar up and tightened it and the cup is on the shaft as far as it will go and it still hits the logic board the motor would need replaced.

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TC -
May 13, 2013
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