Model #2703 MAKITA Saw Table

  • Motor And Gear Housing/safety Guide
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  • Frame/frame Cover
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  • Table/base
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Question and Answers

Q:

Shock Absorbers - Worn gray clips on base causing loud rumbling

A:

Thank you for your question.  I am sorry about the problem with your Kenmore 110.44936202 Front Load Washer.  If the base is damaged so the clips can not hold the shock then replacing the washer may be the best option.  The image below may be helpful to you.  The 8182609 Base will cost approximately $300 dollars.  The 8182703 Shock Absorber will cost approximately $24 dollars a piece.  If one is damaged then all shocks will need to be replaced.  The base being damage would be a rare occurence that is not seen often.   There will always be a certain amount of vibration.  Things may vibrate off the top even though all is fine.  If the machine vibrates and moves across the room then that would be excessive.   The base is available but if that is the way you have to go then I would suggest replacing the washer.  I hope this helps.  You can reply below with any additional details for further assistance.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
September 11, 2013
A:

The base I'm referring to is the gray piece in the end of the shock absorber. I found them for $10 on Amazon. Ordered four of the newer shocks. Do you know the difference between the newer ones and the older 8181646 shocks? I couldn't believe they had no springs inside! not a very good shock absorber.

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John -
September 11, 2013
A:

The new shock is pictured below on top. The bottom image shows the older style. The newer style does have a spring.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
September 15, 2013
A:

Happy there are now springs! I just noticed the instructions you posted. Awesome! You mentioned I needed to replace all four at the same time. Why is that (besides the springs)? My original plan was to buy 2 shocks and remove the gray clips (what I called the base) and put them on the existing shocks since it appears to me that the only issue was that the small part of the clips, the ones that snap into the small holes on the bottom panel (what you call the base) were almost completely worn off due to 10 years of vibration. I was quoted $43 per shock at the local appliance store. I only bought 4 because I found them for $10. Is there any way to replace all four shocks without removing the rear panel? I just had to replace the belt on the dryer but overall the set has served us well and gets lots of use.

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John -
September 15, 2013
A:

The assemption is if one shocks fails then the others may have been damaged. Shock failures are very rare and I have no history of what happens if only one or two are replaced so try the two and let us know how it goes.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
September 17, 2013
A:

I bought all four shocks. They arrived today. Got all four for the price the appliance shop. I dread having to drag the washer out of the tiny laundry room just so I can take the back off. I'm hoping I can change them all through the front.

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John -
September 17, 2013
A:

You will need to remove the lower front access panel and the rear panel to replace both the front and back shocks. The instructions included above on a previous answer may be helpful to you. You might want to start with the front shocks.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
September 18, 2013
A:

The pictures in Steps 13and 14 appear to contradict one another in that the shock in Step 13 shows the outer sleeve end attached to the washers base. In Step 15 its the other side up, asthe old shocks were ooriented. I have two shocks out in the rear and am unsure which way to put the shock in as the gray piece on each end of the shock are identical.

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John -
September 20, 2013
A:

I bought 818 2703 shock absorbers however they do not appear to have springs in them. The markings on the shock are 4619 702 07481. The old ones are marked 4619 202 03241 -03. Was I sold the springless shock by someone who only used the new number when they are really the old part number?

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John -
September 20, 2013
A:

Still waiting for answers to the above questions. I went ahead and installed the shock absorbers in the same orientation as the old ones. The instructions need to be clarified! How did you find out the new shocks are supposed to have springs? The ones I bought are supposedly the new part number but they do not have springs.

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John -
September 27, 2013
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Q:

Kenmore Elite 110.2703, stops with an Ld code but water has pumped out.

A:

I understand how important it is for your Washer to be working so that you can do your laundry without any further delay and although your Washer is not working properly. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question, I found a great link that can help you with this issue with your Washer. Have a nice day!

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Dezeray S -
April 24, 2013
A:

Additional information..... The Wash cycle runs, then the drain pump removes all the water quickly. The drain pump remains on for a long time after all the water has been pumped out. After maybe 5 minutes, the washer stops and displays an LD code. I can press the stop/cancel button then press start again, only to have it run the drain pump again even though all the water has been discharged. After another long time of "pumping", it stops again and displays the same code...... I have taken off both hoses to the drain pump and found nothing foreign inside. The impeller spins by turning it with my finger. After reassembling, it did finish the drain cycle but stopped again on the next drain cycle.... It has had this code before and we were able to run it again after it sat for a while. Could something electronic be overheating? Maybe have a bad control board?...... I would like a wiring diagram to see how it tells that the water has pumped out.

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Douge -
April 24, 2013
A:

I know that it can be very frustrating to have issues with your washer. If the water drains out and the error code LD is displayed the most likely problem will not be the control. The most likely cause of this can be something under the spin basket and if you’re willing you can remove and check under the spin basket yourself. If there is nothing under the spin basket preventing the basket from dropping and engaging on the drive hub the control might be a problem but first I recommend you check for something under the basket (see image below). The basket on this washer floats. As it fills with water it floats up off the drive hub to agitate and to spin it drops back down onto the hub as the water is drained out. If something under the basket, like a sock, prevents this then the control never sees the basket engage the hub the control assumes a drain problem and generates an LD error. I hope this helps. If you need further assistance, please reply to this thread. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
April 24, 2013
A:

I may have fixed it. By doing a "Test #6 Water level and pressure transducer calibration."...........I have done three loads of laundry without a problem..................... . . . . . . . . . . I found the document 8567037 Rev A inside the washer. Followed the instructions to enter manual diagnostics. If anyone else wants to do this... follow these instructions. Make sure your washer is EMPTY. No laundry or water. 1. Start with the washer off. 2 Press and hold any button (except the power, start, or stop) for three seconds - let off for three seconds -press for three seconds - let off for three seconds -press for three seconds - let off. 3. then when it starts to beep and flash press it momentarily one more time. This should get you into the Manual Diagnostics mode. You should have a 00 on the display and the add garment should be flashing. 4. Press and hold the Cycle Signal button until is beeps and a Pt is displayed. 5. Press stop or power button. 6. verify your water level when you fill next time. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . Look at the pictures if you need more info.

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Douge -
April 29, 2013
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Q:

tech sheet

A:

Having an important appliance like a washer give you error codes can be a frustrating and sometimes expensive experience. I did some research and provided a link to a similar question and answer on our site. I hope this will give you a better idea on the next step to take until the Expert responds to your question in more detail within 24 to 48 hours.

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Julio -
August 13, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

The "F40" fault indicates an open/shorted thermistor. The thermistor connections should be checked to make sure it has not come loose or just a bad dirty connection. The thermistor is used to measure water temperature. The water inlet valve assembly has the thermistor installed in it. If the thermistor is faulty, the water inlet assembly #W10059310 for Kenmore washer 110.27032603 can be ordered from Sears Parts Direct. NOTE: Disconnect the power cord from the power source before removing the console and checking the thermistor and thermistor circuit.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
August 15, 2012
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