Model #270 BROTHER Fax Machines

  • 1. Recording Mechanism
    3 Results
  • 2. Frame Attachments
    3 Results
  • 3. Auto Document Feeder
    3 Results
  • 4. Auto Cutter
    3 Results
  • 5. Cover
    3 Results
  • 6.1 Control Panel
    3 Results
  • 6.2 Control Panel
    3 Results
  • 10. Handset
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

New snowblower used 3 times last Feb/Mar. will not start 247881731 Craftsman Snowthrower

A:

Thank You for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com and being a valued member. It is unfortunate to hear that you are having issues with your snow blower and I do understand your frustration. Glad to help out. I'm looking at your model number 247881731 and I recommend checking the engine for spark first. To check for spark remove the spark plug. Then connect the spark plug to the spark plug wire. Now you will need to hold the base of the spark plug to a clean metal surface with insulated pliers. Once you have the spark plug in position have a helper turn the engine over. You should see a blue spark from the spark plug. If you do not have spark, remove the kill wire from the module. Then check for spark again. If there is no spark, the module is defective. It can also be an issue with the fuel or the compression. The first thing I would do is remove the fuel filter and pour a few teaspoons for fuel into the throat of the carburetor. Then try to start the engine. If the engine starts and stalls the problem is in the fuel supply or carburetor. Usually the carburetor needs to be cleaned because it has been sitting. Once the carburetor is cleaned, fill the tank with fresh fuel and check the operation. If the engine does not try to start with pouring gas into the carburetor the problem could be with compression. To check the compression you need to remove the spark plug. Then tuck the spark plug wire out of the way. Put your finger over the spark plug hole to seal it. The compression should blow past your finger. If it does not the engine has an internal problem. I trust this information will help you.

 

Thank you for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com.

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Sherman_G_Wallace -
Sears Technician
November 17, 2014
A:

Old Thread but fyi for others. I had this problem and I did run it out of gas at end of season. This engine's carb seems to gunk up easy plus, if you have not used an ethanol treatment/fuel stabilizer you are getting water in your engine. See this discussion: http://www.boatingmag.com/gear/boatinglab-tests-fuel-stabilizers Can't easily get to carb or fuel filter. To get to, you have to remove heat shield & engine shroud. MTD Service Manual for 270 series here: http://support.mtdproducts.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/10584/~/professional-shop-manuals. Don't have to remove shield or shroud. Get something shallow to catch fuel and remove the screw on the angle on the bottom of the carb. Two screws, the bottom one holds the float bowl on, don't remove. I use a 2cycle boat engine primer to empty fuel tank gas. Remove the side screw and gas will start out strong then trickle down, so wait until sure system empty. After emptying system put fresh gas in tank with Sea Foam added. After refilling, remove side screw and flush by running fuel through until you get almost crystal clear gas. If you do in advance, let set overnight to start dissolving sludge. You can also use Sea Foam spray in the carb inlet. No air filter on snow blower. Let set awhile after spraying in to clean jets. I used starting fluid in the spark plug hole to get the engine running. You can also spray starting fluid or gas into the carb intake if you have a can with a tube. The intake is behind the shroud and under the heat shield and points back and towards the engine in the 12-2 o'clock position looking down from top. It took having the choke one click to the left to keep it running until fuel start flowing. Run for awhile to let the engine warm up and you should be good to go. I ran mine for an hour, spraying Sea Foam every so often in carb. I recommend using a 2 cycle fogging oil at end of season and removing the side screw to drain all of the fuel from the system.

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will -
January 31, 2015
A:

Thanks Will. My friend suggested I use premium with SeaForm and I put that in the tank. I took the plug out several times and sprayed starter fluid in with no good results. I was thinking that with all fuel run out last year that there might have been a bit of moisture remaining. To my wife's alarm. I wheeled it into the kitchen and left it overnight. I played with fuel bulb but did not want to take it off and go somewhere I would regret. I removed the plug again and sprayed starter in, replaced the plug and took it to the garage. It started with one pull! Maybe needle valve was frozen with a touch of moisture. I've used it several times so far and I have to keep it choked pretty good to run smoothly. If I turn choke all the way to "run" machine threatens to stall and runs unevenly. I keep tweaking the choke until it sounds right. Blew about 6-7 inches this morning and looks like same amount for next morning.

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Bill -
February 01, 2015
A:

My Craftsman 24" model #247.881731 is brand new and never used. I purchased it September 2015, assembled and ran for about 5 minutes to assure it would run. I now have 18 inches of snow and a blower that won't start. I put fresh gas in yesterday and exhausted myself on pull start. I switched to electric start and still nothing. I have syphoned all gas from tank. Put in a small amount of fresh gas along with some Sea Foam and still nothing. It appears I will need to remove the chute and belt housing just to get the remaining screw to remove shroud covering the carburetor. Got any tips on how to prime the carburetor without having to disassemble the machine to get to it?

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Paula -
January 23, 2016
A:

My Craftsman 24" model #247.881731 is brand new and never used. I purchased it September 2015, assembled and ran for about 5 minutes to assure it would run. I now have 18 inches of snow and a blower that won't start. I put fresh gas in yesterday and exhausted myself on pull start. I switched to electric start and still nothing. I have syphoned all gas from tank. Put in a small amount of fresh gas along with some Sea Foam and still nothing. It appears I will need to remove the chute and belt housing just to get the remaining screw to remove shroud covering the carburetor. Got any tips on how to prime the carburetor without having to disassemble the machine to get to it?

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Paula -
January 23, 2016
A:

My Craftsman 24" model #247.881731 is brand new and never used. I purchased it September 2015, assembled and ran for about 5 minutes to assure it would run. I now have 18 inches of snow and a blower that won't start. I put fresh gas in yesterday and exhausted myself on pull start. I switched to electric start and still nothing. I have syphoned all gas from tank. Put in a small amount of fresh gas along with some Sea Foam and still nothing. It appears I will need to remove the chute and belt housing just to get the remaining screw to remove shroud covering the carburetor. Got any tips on how to prime the carburetor without having to disassemble the machine to get to it?

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Paula -
January 23, 2016
A:

Hi Paula. We are having the same problem today. Would like to prime the carburetor without disassembling the machine to do it.

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lisa -
January 24, 2016
A:

Same problem as Paula and Lisa. Purchased new Craftsman snowblower August 2015 to replace a Craftsman Blower worn out after 15 years of solid performance. Careful to follow all installation and starting instructions explicitly. Fresh gas put in Friday, January 23; recommended oil added; Choke and throttle set; key in place. Engine "cranks" but does not turn over engine at all. Recoil starter tried but failed to start. Since it is under 2 year warranty I called service and they will send out a repair guy in February. Meanwhile I have 2' of snow and a new, unused blower sitting on the carport. By the time the repair techie comes the snow ill have melted and evaporated.

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ANDYK4 -
January 25, 2016
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Q:

Kenmore Elite Refrigerator 106.44423603 ice machine working, but not dispensing

A:

Hi Robert. I don't have access to a service manual. What we can do would be to give you detailed instructions on how to do the job. I found a link that may address a consideration you may not have thought of yet. Review this information while I forward your question to our expert department. They will investigate the matter and get back to you within a day or two. Until then, have a nice afternoon.

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Henry -
September 27, 2012
A:

Thanks for the idea. It's a different problem. I rarely used crushed ice and I have completely thawed the storage bin and replaced it, with still no auger working in an empty, dry bin with an empty, clean chute.

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firemedic110 -
September 27, 2012
A:

Thanks for contacting ManageMyLife.com. I understand how frustrating it is having trouble with your ice dispenser not working on the refrigerator. We are here to help. I agree with your diagnosis. It is either a bad motor,switch or missing a voltage. This will help you troubleshoot the problem. The IDI (In-Door Ice) motor, or auger motor, runs off of 120vdc. A bridge rectifier on the core control will rectify 120 volts AC to 120 volts DC for the IDI motor. Changing polarity will reverse the motor to change from crush to cube modes. Clockwise (CW) rotation is crush mode and counterclockwise (CCW) is cube mode. To check the resistance of the motor, follow these steps:

  1. Disconnect electrical power completely from the refrigerator.
  2. Disconnect the IDI motor connector.
  3. Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale. Touch the ohmmeter test leads to the following motor connector pins:
  4. Pins 1 and 2 = 10 to 15 ?
  5. Pins 4 and 5 = 220 to 270 ?

Here is an explanation of how Ice Dispensing works:

When the dispenser pad is depressed, the user interface commands the core control to dispense ice based on the cube/crushed keypad selection. The core control directs 120 volts AC through the PTC in the IDI motor and back to the core control. The core control rectifies the 120 volts AC, and 120 volts DC is sent back out on the BR/WH (Brown/White) and RD/WH (Red/White) wires. The polarity determines the direction that the motor will run. RD/WH wires will be positive for crushed ice, and will run clockwise. The BR/WH wires will be positive for cubed ice, and will run counterclockwise. The following sequence occurs:

  1. The ice pad switch is pushed closed.
  2. The user interface receives the signal.
  3. The user interface signals the core control on P1-2 which direction to run the auger.
  4. The core control outputs the square wave to the ice door motor for approximately 1 second, and at the same time, the IDI motor is energized on P2-1 and P2-2 with 120 volts DC.
  5. When dispensing has stopped, the ice door will remain open for 10 seconds, and then power is applied for approximately 1 second to close the door. The image below will help you change the motor. I hope this helps.

To order refrigerator parts, please visit SearsPartsDirect.com with the model number.

If you do not feel comfortable repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears Technician. You may visit SearsHomeServices.com and follow the instructions, then click on the red next now button.

Please feel free to let me know if you need further assistance. We are always here to help.

Thank you for using ManageMyLife.com.

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John H -
Sears Technician
September 29, 2012
A:

Hello, can someone tell me why ice maker dispenser is not working but motor is OK. Model 106.44423603

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Oscar -
December 11, 2015
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Q:

Solid State Ignition 143986501 Craftsman Engine

A:

Thanks for the inquiry and for being a valued member.

The charge coil, capacitor, rectifier, and transformer are all encapsulated into the solid state ignition module. To help you with the testing and additional information on the ignition, I have linked the engine specific service manual below. It covers this starting on page 63. 

Service Manual

I hope this helps and thanks for using SearsPartsDirect.com. We appreciate your business. 

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Jeff Wallace Sr -
Sears Technician
July 28, 2015
A:

OK, I bought a new solid state ignition module, installed it using piece of paper to set the gap. Still no spark. Tried a couple different plugs, also made sure I had good connection of wire to the plug tip and that the outside of plug is grounded. The magnets seem quite strong. Any ideas?

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Douglas -
August 25, 2015
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