Model #2603 LXI Portable Audio

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Question and Answers

Q:

Still have F1 error after replacing controll panel twice

A:

I know it can be frustrating when you replace the same part twice and it still does not fix the error code of F1 on the Kenmore washer. An expert will research and respond to your specific issue with the control boards for the Kenmore Oasis model. Thanks for your patience.

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Anna T -
December 10, 2012
A:

Hello Charles,

I'm sorry to hear that your washer is giving you troubles and I would like to assist you. When you refer to the control panel, I assume that you mean the electronic control, W10112112 and are still having the same results. You will want to be absolutely sure that the air hose that goes from the tub to the electronic control is not plugged and does not have a hole in it. Once this is certain, the basket is the next item to verify. When your washer fills, the basket actually floats up a little less than an inch. When this occurs, the basket is disengaged from it's drive and the agitator can rotate independently from the basket. This matters because if it does not disengage, the motor tachometer senses that the basket is still engaged and the washer "thinks" that there is a leak because the water valve is open, but the basket does not float and doesn't disengage.

When does the F1 occur? Is it nearly immediately when the cycle is started or is it shortly after the cycle has been started and water is flowing in? Please reply and I will be happy to assist you further.

Jerry C

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Jerry C -
Sears Technician
December 11, 2012
A:

Did you get any of that i backspaced and got kicked out of the conversation frustrating too, I can blow air from the controll to the tube ,i cant blow air from the tube to th controll. I can lift the basket , from your explanation this seems to be the problem because when we request the wash cycle it starts adding water about 30 seconds and then errors F1.

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Charles -
December 26, 2012
A:

Hello Charles,

I think that you have most likely narrowed this down to the basket not correctly disengaging. I have attached a copy of the manual that will get you into an automatic test mode. Go ahead and do this and then let me know what happens. As a note, refrain from blowing into the control board from the tub side, it is usually not an issue since the hose is more difficult to unhook from the bottom of the tub. With enough pressure, the transducer on the board can be damaged. If this proves to be the basket not disengaging properly the remedy is to replace the tub, the shaft is pressed in with the bearings in the new assembly and the shaft is not listed separately.

Jerry C

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Jerry C -
Sears Technician
December 27, 2012
A:

Jerry thanks for being persistant and giving of you time . I am truly greatful;;; could not get the activation of automatic test mode and do not have pg 2 for referance .

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Charles -
December 27, 2012
A:

Hello Charles,

Vary the times of on and off button presses a little bit. By this I mean do them all the same amount, but first try a little longer (3.5 seconds), then a little shorter (2.5) and so on. I used to have to slow myself down when entering the on service mode, probably had something to do with having to rush around to get service calls done! I have attached page two for your reference.

Jerry C

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Jerry C -
Sears Technician
December 28, 2012
A:

Did not attach on last post, will try it again.-

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Jerry C -
Sears Technician
December 28, 2012
A:

Thanks again ,for all your help , I was never able to enter the diagnostic test mode, so I ordered the W10189966 cotnroll board ,and replaced that ,just started a load of towles and so far "walla" its working /// it appears we cant get to the DTM with a bad contoll board . Just thought you would be interested in the results I got . Happy New Year

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Charles -
December 28, 2012
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Q:

What is the SEER for a Carrier 38YZA036?

A:

I can understand the importance of knowing what the product specifications are for your Carrier heat pump. An expert will research this information and respond within two business days if not sooner. Thank your for your patience.

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Anna T -
August 20, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question. That unit that you have is a 10 SEER, 3 ton unit. The 38YZA is the family group or series. The '0' tells me it is a 10 SEER unit and the 36 tells me how many BTU's it is. 36K BTU= 3 tons.

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Andrew D -
Sears Technician
August 20, 2012
A:

Andrew, thank you for the quick response. Will help greatly when I follow up with Sears. We've had the unit for 9 years and every single year we've had to wait a week to two weeks to get repairs made. When we purchased in 2003, we were told the unit was bigger than what we had and that 10 to 12 SEER was average, and recommendation was to purchase and install 14 SEER unit. Even after complaining that our electric bill went up instead of going down with supposedly a more efficient unit with the heat pump, no one checked to ensure we received what we purchased. Because we are having problems once again with cooling and again waiting a week before we can have it serviced under our Sears Master Protection Plan, I pulled out the contract and booklets left by the installers and contract says 14 SEER like we thought, yet booklets and your response says otherwise. Additionally, each year we always have a problem with the system heating properly; last time wires burnt up due to faulty installation (dissimilar metals with the heavy gray wire in the breaker box by the heat/air exchange unit). We ended up having to pay for that repair. Will certainly be following up with Sears for resolution on the wrong SEER unit - payed over $7K. Not happy at all! Thanks again for the support and have a nice evening.

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John -
August 20, 2012
A:

I'm sorry that you've been having some tough times having service completed and getting the most of your system. I obviously have no idea how your home is designed but I would like to point out that if you have an older home and it is not updated with updated duct work, good windows or proper insulation for example, no system will be able to overcome that and your energy bill will always be high.

The wires burning up sounds to me like copper wiring and aluminum wiring was mixed. The two metals basically don't like each other and will heat up to the point where they can catch fire. A special gel needs to be used with homes that have aluminum wiring in order to prevent that. The units themselves do not come with aluminum wiring.

The aluminum wiring that is in your home would tell me it's an older home and it really should be replaced as it is not safe. I would be happy to answer any other questions you have.

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Andrew D -
Sears Technician
August 21, 2012
A:

Actually the home was built in 1995, and we did have the wire replaced by a company other than Sears since they said they didn't install the pigtail and you are correct that dissimiliar metals was the concern. Wiring in the home is up to date wiring. Because of the heating and cooling cost, we checked insulation and had all our windows replaced with very energy efficient windows. The fan on the outside A/C unit is blowing cool air up away from condensor, but line running into the house is warm (not cold or sweaty under the insulating like material. Also, periodically there is a click that comes on and a short humming sound and then clicks back off - very brief. To prevent any further damage, we've turned the unit off, opened all the windows and turned on all ceiling fans and box fan running. Wife is disabled and home all day with two indoor pets, temp right now at 5pm is 84 degrees inside the house. Spoke with a former Sears Qaulity Assurance employee today and his recommendation was to contact Sears National Customer Relations to get them involved to remedy the situation vs. having to muster through a week of this until Sears repairman (warrany/protection plan) gets here next Monday, and the fact that Sears installed a unit that wasn't in accordance with our contract. Again, thanks Andrew, and if you have any suggestions to help us get some relief, we'd appreciate it. Have a nice evening.

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John -
August 21, 2012
A:

Interesting. Can you give me the serial number and the date it was installed? When the system is running in cooling mode, the outdoor unit should be blowing hot air up and away from the condenser because it's technically expelling the heat from the inside. So if it's blowing cool air, then there is definitely a problem.

You have a heat pump and when the unit is running in heating mode, the air blown from the condenser will be cool. I'm curious to know if your unit is running in heating mode, not cooling mode. Was the thermostat replaced recently? What can you tell me about the thermostat you have? Usually a system that isn't charged right or is low on refrigerant will blow air away from the condenser that just isn't warm. You're saying the air blowing is cool and that tells me that you might be running in heating mode or there may be an issue with the reversing valve not changing over and forcing the unit to run in heat mode.

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Andrew D -
Sears Technician
August 22, 2012
A:

S/N: 2603E03159 and Model No. on system is 38YZA036320, and Production No. 38YZA036320---321. Installed in Fall of 2003 with a 10 year Master Protection Plan. The Carrier programmable thermostat has a number on inside of door 997-970210-3. Checked the mode numerous times and according to the thermostat, it is running in cool mode. I checked the outside air blowing up out of the unit and it still pushes cool air out the top. The noise I mentioned before is a click and hum sound that last for about 2 seconds and cycles every ~14 - 15 seconds on the outside unit. Again, to avoid burning up something or further damage to the unit, we keep it cut off and continue to swelter in the house. Contacted Sears "Customer Solution Department" yesterday and they said they would send an email to the schedulers to see if there was any way to get someone out to our house sooner, and they would follow-up on ensuring we got the system we paid for; as it stands now, our contract was for a 14 SEER unit, and your earlier response indicates a 10 SEER, but the booklets left behind indicate a 12. Either way, it doesn't measure up, and we've had nothing but trouble with this system and higher electric bills. Thanks Andrew for the continued support and look forward to hearing back from you.

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John -
August 22, 2012
A:

So is it safe to say that the thermostat has never been replaced? I couldn't locate that thermostat by the number provided. Is there any chance you can send a picture to me of it or describe what it looks like and is it digital? When you set the thermostat, do you have to slide a switch one way or another or is it all push buttons on the control?

If it's never been replaced then I don't think the unit is running in heating mode. I think it's continuously making itself run in defrost mode. On your outdoor unit, there is a defrost control board, a defrost sensor that tells the board when to go into defrost and the reversing valve which dictates which direction the refrigerant flows. I think you could have one or more of the following failures in order of likeliness.

1.) Defrost Sensor has gone bad.
2.) Defrost control board has gone bad.
3.) Reversing valve is sticking.

When you say the noise occurs for 2 seconds every 14-15 seconds, does it do this continuously or randomly?

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Andrew D -
Sears Technician
August 23, 2012
A:

Thermostat never been replaced and the clicking and associated hum in the outside unit is continuously. As for the thermostat, it is digital and programmable for each day of the week. It allows you to change days, copy previous day's settings, etc. There are other features but I'm at work and can't tell you what all else it has, but it is a nice carrier thermostat.

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John -
August 23, 2012
A:

That's good info. Does it happen to have a door that opens to the left? I attached a couple of pictures below.

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Andrew D -
Sears Technician
August 23, 2012
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Q:

tech sheet

A:

Having an important appliance like a washer give you error codes can be a frustrating and sometimes expensive experience. I did some research and provided a link to a similar question and answer on our site. I hope this will give you a better idea on the next step to take until the Expert responds to your question in more detail within 24 to 48 hours.

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Julio -
August 13, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

The "F40" fault indicates an open/shorted thermistor. The thermistor connections should be checked to make sure it has not come loose or just a bad dirty connection. The thermistor is used to measure water temperature. The water inlet valve assembly has the thermistor installed in it. If the thermistor is faulty, the water inlet assembly #W10059310 for Kenmore washer 110.27032603 can be ordered from Sears Parts Direct. NOTE: Disconnect the power cord from the power source before removing the console and checking the thermistor and thermistor circuit.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
August 15, 2012
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