Model #2537419240G KENMORE Top-Mount Refrigerator

  • Door
    3 Results
  • Cabinet
    3 Results
  • Shelves
    3 Results
  • System
    3 Results
  • Ice Maker
    3 Results
  • Wiring Schematic
    3 Results
  • Wiring Diagram
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Question and Answers

Q:

Kenmore refridgerator model 2537419240G door seal issue

A:

I am glad you are trying to fix the issue with the door on the Kenmore refrigerator before it becomes an issue of not cooling properly. The link provided below may give you an idea how to resolve this issue while waiting for a response from the expert on your specific model. If you decide on service instead, the link is also available below.

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Anna T -
November 18, 2012
A:

Thanks for the response. It didn't help but I do want to make it clear the there in nothing wrong with the seal itself. The door is about 1/8-1/4 inch lower on the open side vs the hinge side.

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TimothyCPA -
November 18, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question. I'm sorry you are having this problem with your fridge. When the door sags like this, usually leveling the cabinet will adjust the door and correct this problem. Use the front leveling legs or rollers to make this adjustment. I'm attaching some pictures with instructions to make this adjustment. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, reply to this thread and I will be glad to assist you further.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
November 20, 2012
A:

Scott D. Thanks for that advice but I have already checked the level and it is right on. I even tried adjusting it on the opeening side and back higher. No luck. I baught this home a year after the refridgerator was purchased and have the receipt but that was 4 years ago. It had the problem from day 1 but has appearently gotten worse because the door inside has been wearing against the inside plastic and now there is more friction. My only solution is to add plastic spacers to the lower hing but that's really not a proper solution.

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TimothyCPA -
November 20, 2012
A:

Timothy, if leveling the cabinet does not help, the other 2 alternatives will be to add a spacer or spacers to the bottom hinge or loosen the top (middle) door hinge and push the door backward. Some hinges have elongated holes, which allows for some door movement. If this hinge will not move or still is not enough, the washer for the bottom hinge is # 240311303. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
November 21, 2012
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Q:

What is the most likely problem with my Kenmore 2537419240G refrigerator

A:

I'm sorry that you are having some difficulties with your Kenmore Refrigerator. I did a little research for you at Managemylife.com and found an expert answer to a similar question that may help until your expert can respond to your specific question. The link is attached below. If you decide to schedule service and have a qualified technician help you, I have also attached a link to Searshomeservices.com. I hope these links will help until your expert can respond.

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James -
June 21, 2011
A:

Thanks so much for taking the time to look this information up. I will check out the link. I appreciate your help.

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Lynne -
June 21, 2011
A:

I wanted to add that I checked the holes were the air is suppose to enter the refrigerator at the top near the rear -- surrounded by Styrofoam and there is some are coming through still but it is not particularly cold or strong. Don't know if that tidbit is at all helpful.

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Lynne -
June 22, 2011
A:

The description you give about things getting slowly worse and worse and the frost you see sound like a defrost problem.

There is a simple test for this.

First turn the unit off or even unplug it and leave the refrigerator and freezer doors open.

After 24 hours even the worst frost up will melt.

The drip pan should be full of water.

Now turn the unit on and let it run for 12-24 hours. Even after 12 hours the freezer should be freezing and the refrigerator section should be cold.

You can touch the condenser coils by the compressor and see if they fill hot. If the condenser coils are not hot then most likely there is a sealed system problem.

Both the condenser fan and the evaporator fan must be working.

Try this and see how things go. You can reply to me with the additional details and we'll go further into this problem.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
June 22, 2011
A:

Thank you Fred for your advice. I am now letting the refrigerator defrost and will see how this goes. If everything starts up right and the fridge is cold and the freezer is freezing--how long would you guess I would have before the frosting over issue will start again-- a few hours, day, weeks? Just wondered what kind of break from the problem I might get and how quickly I will need parts delivered etc.?

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Lynne -
June 23, 2011
A:

It would depend on how ofter the door is open but most likely 3-4 days to become a problem again.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
June 25, 2011
A:

The defrosting of the fridge did not make it run normal again. In fact nothing changed. The Fridge is verily staying cool and the freezer is the same. It does not freeze anything just almost freezes the stuff inside. So what do you think it might be. What steps can I take to determine what is wrong with it. Thanks.

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Lynne -
June 26, 2011
A:

Check the condenser fan and the condenser coils or not covered with lint/dust. Check if the condenser is hot. I suspect you have a sealed system problem. A leak or restriction in the system is most likely the problem.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
June 27, 2011
A:

When the refrigerator started acting up my dad decided that if we took off the back panel and blew out the dust with an air compressor it would eliminate any dust on the coils. It is extremely dusty where I live plus I have two large dogs that shed hair abundantly. So, we used the air compressor and a whole lot of dust came out of there. However, we did not remove the front panel and clean that. Does this particular fridge pull air in from the front of the fridge. Do I need to do more than blow the dust off with an air compressor to get the coils clean. If so let me know what to do how to properly clean them. Where is the fans on this unit and how can I tell if they are working correctly. Are they on all the time or do they turn on and off? If you have any diagrams that would help a ton. Thanks for all your help! Also my previous Fridge also went out after just about 5 years so I am thinking that it could be the dust and animal hair clogging something and that is causing the problems. The only other thing I can think of is in the house that I live in the there is some sort of wiring problem and a few of the outlets in the kitchen have stopped working entirely. The fridge cord is plugged in directly to the outlet that it was intended to go into and since the fridge is on and attempting to run I suppose it is not an electrical issue.

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Lynne -
June 27, 2011
A:

The air is pulled in past the front grill. Cleaning the coils may solve this problem. The condenser coils should be hot when the unit is running. If there is a condenser fan it would be in the back behind the cover. The cover should be replaced after the coils are clean. Compressed air works but it doesn get dust everywhere.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
June 28, 2011
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Q:

defrost thermostat replacement

A:

I'm sorry that you are having some difficulties with your Kenmore Refrigerator. Managemylife.com is a great web site to receive expert assistance to just about everything. I did some research for you at managemylife.com and found an expert answer to a similar question that may shed some light on this problem. I have attached the link below. If you decide you would like to schedule service from a qualified technician, I have also attached a link to searshomeservices.com. I hope theses links will be helpful until your expert can respond to your specific question.

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James -
May 21, 2011
A:

Replacing some parts can be a challenge. The information you have received from James is good but it does not pertain to this problem. The defrost thermostat (# 21 in first picture) is located above the evaporator coil in the freezer. To access this thermostat, you will need to first disconnect power to the unit. Now, remove everything in the freezer, so the back panel (# 10 in second picture) can be removed. The back panel will have screws holding it in place. The air tower in front of the back panel will also need to be removed. Pull the knob off of the air tower and it's just held in place with tabs. I'm also attaching a picture of how to remove the icemaker. When you have the back panel out, you will be able to see the thermostat on top of the evaporator (# 15 in first picture). Now, disconnect the wires and remove the defrost thermostat. It just clamps to the evaporator. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, any additional details will be helpful and I will be glad to assist you further.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
May 23, 2011
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