Model #250 BROTHER Fax Machines

  • 1. Recording Mechanism
    3 Results
  • 2. Frame Attachments
    3 Results
  • 3. Auto Document Feeder
    3 Results
  • 4. Auto Cutter
    3 Results
  • 5. Cover
    3 Results
  • 6.3 Control Panel
    3 Results
  • 10. Handset
    3 Results
  • 15. Accessories
    3 Results
Find part by diagram >

Question and Answers

Q:

interior lights Kenmore Refrigerator

A:

Thank you for choosing SearsPartsDirect.com. I will be more than happy to assist you.  I can understand any frustration you may have experienced with regards to your unit. Let’s see what we can do for you.

It sounds like it could be the light switch is not making a proper connection to have the lights come on right away. This switch is the plunger at the top of the fridge when you open the door. I would recommend on replacing this part and seeing if it solves your issue.

Hope this information has helped you. If you are not comfortable doing this repair you can click here to schedule a technician or call toll free 1-800-469-4663. If you have any further questions or concerns, you will have to post a new question. Again, thank you for choosing SearsPartsDirect.com.
 

Read More
Samantha A -
Sears Technician
September 30, 2014
A:

Samantha A. I appreciate your help but I don't believe that is the problem because the two lights in the fridge and the one in the freezer are on separate switches and both flicker. That would mean both switches went bad at the same time, the switch on the freezer door and the switch on the fridge door.

Read More
Richard -
September 30, 2014
A:

Was this problem resolved? I just began to experience the same issue. The two lights in the fridge and the one in the freezer are flickering like a strobe light.

Read More
Ed -
March 02, 2015
A:

Ed, my problem has not been resolved and no one seems to have an answer. Went to parts dept. and sales at store and no one had an answer.

Read More
Richard -
March 02, 2015
A:

Im having the same issues. Our fridge is barely over a year old. the freezer and fridge lights flicker when either door is open. must be a factory defect that needs to be addressed. Please help SEARS! If either Ed or Richard comes up with a solution please mail me at Anthony.r.froid@lmco.com and ill post on here if I figure it out. I called sears and they want to charge me a service fee to come look at it. Again its barely 1 year old. Very disappointed with sears.

Read More
tony -
May 06, 2015
A:

the lights have to be fine; someone said it may be the door switch but im not really wanting to start spending more money swapping parts until im fairly certain the cause. SEARS help US!

Read More
tony -
May 06, 2015
A:

This is the same exact problem we are having with our refrigerator. Our model # is 10651122210 and we've owned it for less than 2 years. It was not an expensive refrigerator and now Sears says they will come to our home and fix it for $100 plus parts. Really? As the post above says I'm disappointed with Sears and really have no desire spending more for the refrigerator than the original cost. My family grew up with Sears appliances but I can't imagine purchasing another.

Read More
Paul -
May 20, 2015
A:

Paul---I spoke with sears customer solutions team and was given zero solutions. they basically said fix it myself or pay them to come out. I will keep researching for a fix. someone told me it could be a short but if that was the case the blinking would be inconsistent; as of now it only blinks when the door is open. I will keep posting on here until I get a fix and it has to be fixed. when the kids open up the door when the kitchen is dark it looks like I'm running a disco club (LOL). it appears this is a manufacturing defect; I've noticed many online appliance fix blogs that people with this fridge are having same issue. good luck.

Read More
tony -
May 22, 2015
A:

Paul---I spoke with sears customer solutions team and was given zero solutions. they basically said fix it myself or pay them to come out. I will keep researching for a fix. someone told me it could be a short but if that was the case the blinking would be inconsistent; as of now it only blinks when the door is open. I will keep posting on here until I get a fix and it has to be fixed. when the kids open up the door when the kitchen is dark it looks like I'm running a disco club (LOL). it appears this is a manufacturing defect; I've noticed many online appliance fix blogs that people with this fridge are having same issue. good luck.

Read More
tony -
May 22, 2015
A:

I had the conversation with the people at the outlet store where I purchased the Fridge. This is not a switch problem.

Read More
Kenneth -
June 03, 2015
See more answers
Q:

How do I get my icemaker to work? There is no ice/water in the system anywhere.

A:

I see you are having problems with your Ice Maker not working properly, I can see how frustrating it may be. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question. I found the Manual for your Ice Maker. I attached the link below. Hope this helps!

Read More
Dezeray S -
October 20, 2010
A:

Thank you for the attachment; however, that item did not help me; I have the user manual which you attached. That's what I used to do my earlier diagnostics. I am looking for the links to the actual repair manual and schematic websites which I can use to get additional diagnostic information and do some electrical troubleshooting. I would like to verify power is at the valve, I would like to see if a power bypass jumper actually activates the valve (that is, apply power direct to the valve). If it doesn't activate, the valve is dead and would need to be replaced. My suspicion is either the water in the line at the entry valve has frozen or the water inlet valve has failed. I'm not sure how I would check the water flow at the valve itself without making a mess.

Read More
Space Station -
October 20, 2010
A:

I will provide you with detailed technical information and troubleshooting to help you diagnose and repair this problem. First, I recommend verifying that you have proper water flow through the water dispenser in the freezer door. If water flow is weak, I recommend that you pull the water filter out and see if the water pressure and flow through the door dispenser improves. The housing for the filter has an automatic bypass so that water will flow properly with the filter removed.

If water flow significantly increases with the filter pulled out, I recommend that you leave it out and see if the ice maker will begin producing ice within a few hours. You will need to replace the water filter if this tip helps. This basic troubleshooting should not be overlooked. You may have already checked this issue.

The next step in troubleshooting is to check the diagnostic test system on the level sensing control boards on the side walls of the freezer. The first image below shows how to check the diagnostics on the control boards. If the red LED light flashes twice and the pauses and repeats when you open the door then it is likely working okay. Press in the flapper on the left side so that the beam is unblocked. The red LED should turn solid. If it does then the control boards should be okay. If the control boards are apparently bad, then they will need to be replaced. Unplug the refrigerator to disconnect power before accessing internal components. The second image shows how to replace these control boards. You can order a kit that has both boards from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the kit is 4389102.

If the level sensing control boards are okay, I recommend that you unplug the refrigerator and pull the ice maker module out. The third image shows how to remove the ice maker module. Carefully remove it and check the water fill tube protruding down from the roof of the freezer to see if it is frozen. If it is, then defrosting this line may fix your ice maker problem.

If the water fill tube is not frozen, I recommend that you replace the ice maker and manually fill the ice mold with water using a turkey baster or squirt bottle. See if the ice maker will cycle and eject the ice. Also check to see if the ice maker fills back up with water if it does eject the ice. If the ice maker module will not eject the ice then the module (part 2198597) will need to be replaced.

If the ice maker ejects the frozen cubes but does not refill, then you will need to conduct an advanced technical test to check the water valve. You will need a small piece of insulated wire such as door bell wire to create a "jumper" as shown in the 4th image below. To provide power to the ice maker module to conduct this test, you will need to follow these steps:

  • Unplug the refrigerator and pull out the receiver control board as shown in that 4th image.

  • Carefully place the stripped ends of the jumper wire into the wire harness locations between the yellow wire and the black/white wire in the receiver board harness that is on the side wall of the freezer. This will provide power to the ice maker module when the door switch is in the "open" position. This voltage path is drawn on the partial wiring diagram shown in the 5th image.

Remove the ice maker module as shown in the second image (with the refrigerator still unplugged ). Pull the cover off of the ice maker module to access the test points as shown in the 6th image below. You will need a separate large jumper wire with the ends stripped far enough to reach the contacts inside the test points of the ice maker. Fourteen gauge wire is recommended for this jumper. Place the jumper wire between the L and V terminals to test the water valve (with the refrigerator still _unplugged). Make sure that the wire harness to the ice maker module is plugged in properly. Position the ice maker module to the side (out of the way) and place a cup or container under the fill tube to catch water during this test. Push in on the door switch to simulate the freezer door being closed. Have someone plug in the refrigerator while you hold the door switch in. Once the refrigerator is plugged in, briefly let go of the door switch to see if water flows from the inlet water tube. Unplug the refrigerator as soon as this brief test is completed. If water did flow during this test then the water valve is okay. The ice maker module will need to be replaced since it did not energize the water valve during the harvest cycle.

If the water did not flow during this test then you will need to check the resistance through the circuit. The 7th image below shows how to check resistance through the water valve. You should measure about 300 ohms of resistance through the test points V and N (with the refrigerator still unplugged ). If not, then I recommend that you check the resistance of the ice maker water valve solenoid directly at the valve. The water valve is on the back, bottom portion of the refrigerator behind the service panel. If the valve is bad, it will need to be replaced.

These are complicated technical checks. Be sure that you follow the directions carefully. If you are not completely confident that you can safely diagnose this fairly complicated system, I recommend that you have a service technician repair this failure. Here is a link for the Sears Service website in case you need it: Sears Home Services .

I hope that this is the technical information that you were expecting. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details and we will help you further.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 29, 2011
A:

Here are more images.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
October 21, 2010
A:

This is the final image.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
October 21, 2010
A:

Lyle, thanks for the great info. I would like to list the steps i have taken and hopefully you can direct me on what to do next. i installed a new ice maker module 2198597, still no ice. Then I went onto this website for help. The red led blinking light acted correctly with your checks. I remover the receiver control board and jumped the blk/whi wire with the yellow and the icemaker started moving. It seemed to go through all the cycles but still no ice. With the wires still jumped, I added water to the ice tray with a cup and got ice in my hopper a little while later. When I did the 14guage jumper test on the side of the ice maker I couldn�t get anything to happen (this may have been my fault, im not sure what state the door sw was in during this). Finally I unplugged power and did the resistance tests. I got L&H heater test 73.5 ohms, L&M motor test 5.12 ohms, V&N water valve 1.6 ohms. What�s next? Thanks for your help

Read More
joey -
August 03, 2011
A:

Hello Joey. Your description points to a failure in that water valve or a frozen fill tube. Check that fill tube to see if it is frozen (or clogged). The resistance reading through that water valve circuit from the ice maker module should be around 300 ohms. I recommend that you recheck that resistance reading. You can unplug the refrigerator and carefully place that insulated jumper wire in the harness of the receiver board as described above. Place a 14 gauge insulated jumper wire in the L and V test points on that ice maker module. Make sure that the stripped ends of that 14 gauge jumper wire are long enough so that you are hitting those contacts in side the ice maker module test point holes. Place a cup or container under the fill tube and then push in the freezer door switch and see if you get any water from the fill tube above the ice maker. If the fill tube is clear and you get no water through the fill valve during this test, then the inlet water valve will need to be replaced. I hope that this additional information helps. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
August 03, 2011
A:

NOTE: You will need to plug the refrigerator back in after placing the jumper wires in the receiver board harness and ice maker module in the above procedure. I left that step out in the above response.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
August 03, 2011
A:

hey Lyle, i finally got back to the issue. im not really sure how to check for a frozen tube. i took a wire hanger and sent it into the fill hose hole trying to feel ice and it felt clear. the water in the door works fine. as far as the resistance im still getting 1.8 ohms. i know im hitting the contacts because of how my meter reacts, it shows OL untill it touches the terminals. i followed the steps for the fill tube test and got nothing. could it be my inlet water valve? is this a common failure? how is it replaced? thanks for your help.

Read More
joey -
August 13, 2011
A:

Hello Joey. Based on your description and the resistance reading on fill valve circuit, you will need to replace that inlet water valve assembly. That is not a common failure but it does occur occasionally. You can order that part from Sears PartsDirect.com (see link below). UNPLUG the refrigerator and shut off the water supply. You can follow the basic steps that are shown in the images below to replace that water valve assembly.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 16, 2011
See more answers
Q:

Blinking LED lights 10651133210 Kenmore Refrigerator

A:

Thank you for choosing Sears Parts Direct. I will be more than happy to help with your refrigerator. Upon researching model 10651133210:  you can unplug the refrigerator power cord for 5 minutes and then reapply the power to reset the unit controls. If the problem persists then the dispenser control board may need to be replaced, when the dispenser control board fails it can cause the controls for the dispenser to become unresponsive. I have posted a link of the dispenser control board#8 on the diagram linked, to view the link click here.

I trust this information will help you, we appreciate your business thank for choosing Sears.

Read More
CarlosZ -
Sears Technician
July 09, 2015
A:

I have the same problem, the fridge is roughly 2 years old as well, so I followed your advice. First I unplugged it for 5 minutes and the problem still persisted. Then I bought the control board you described and replaced the old one and the lights are still flickering. Can anyone here help with the right answer please?

Read More
Mike -
October 21, 2015
A:

I feel you, Mike. Ours is still broken. I did not go as far as you and replace the control board. But unplugging-plugging back in did nothing. So, we put tape over the switches to make the blinking lights stop (my "disco fridge" was giving me a headache...) and now we deal with a dark fridge/freezer. Ticks me off this POS is less than 2 years old! If this many people are having the same problem, I fee like Sears/Kenmore should do something about it! I cannot afford to pay a tech $250+ to come out and fix this... So I'm stuck with no lights and waiting until something else breaks!

Read More
GREGORY -
October 22, 2015
A:

I feel you, Mike. Ours is still broken. I did not go as far as you and replace the control board. But unplugging-plugging back in did nothing. So, we put tape over the switches to make the blinking lights stop (my "disco fridge" was giving me a headache...) and now we deal with a dark fridge/freezer. Ticks me off this POS is less than 2 years old! If this many people are having the same problem, I fee like Sears/Kenmore should do something about it! I cannot afford to pay a tech $250+ to come out and fix this... So I'm stuck with no lights and waiting until something else breaks!

Read More
GREGORY -
October 22, 2015
A:

We purchased a complete set of Kenmore appliances for our new home (including this refrigerator) last year end of August. The appliances were not delivered or installed until the end of November. About 6 months into use, the washing machine developed to small leak around the door gasket (while in warranty), but unfortunately did not call the problem in until two weeks out of warranty. Since that time, the low speed blower setting on the microwave vent has malfunctioned (blower stays on high for both high and low settings), and last week, our refrigerator began the "dsco" light strobing in both freezer and refrigerator . Like others, for the LED light issue, I attempted the 5 minute reset without the problem being resolved. Now the question is do we spend the money to replace a board, that like Mike's experience, may not resolve the issue. It seems to me that there can only be three potential issues: 1. the LEDs themselves (unlikely I believe), the switch, or a control board / driver. If at all possible, I do not want to take a $250.00 gamble. Any advice would be appreciated. And just to double check, is it the "Dispenser" control board that controls the Internal LED lights???

Read More
john -
November 01, 2015
A:

We purchased a complete set of Kenmore appliances for our new home (including this refrigerator) last year end of August. The appliances were not delivered or installed until the end of November. About 6 months into use, the washing machine developed to small leak around the door gasket (while in warranty), but unfortunately did not call the problem in until two weeks out of warranty. Since that time, the low speed blower setting on the microwave vent has malfunctioned (blower stays on high for both high and low settings), and last week, our refrigerator began the "dsco" light strobing in both freezer and refrigerator . Like others, for the LED light issue, I attempted the 5 minute reset without the problem being resolved. Now the question is do we spend the money to replace a board, that like Mike's experience, may not resolve the issue. It seems to me that there can only be three potential issues: 1. the LEDs themselves (unlikely I believe), the switch, or a control board / driver. If at all possible, I do not want to take a $250.00 gamble. Any advice would be appreciated. And just to double check, is it the "Dispenser" control board that controls the Internal LED lights???

Read More
john -
November 01, 2015
A:

I bought subject refrigerator 2 yrs 3 mos ago. All 3 interior LED ights started blinking last week. I can turn on/off light switches and lights will sometimes stop blinking but will restart blinking after closing/opening door. Saw on parts list a light board, $90, but I do not know if this has anything to do with the LED lights. Above reply by "expert" mentions dispenser control board but that doesn't make sense to me. Anybody figure this problem out?

Read More
JOE -
November 22, 2015
A:

Same problem - strobe light effect drives me crazy! Seems this is a model defect as mine is barely 2 years old, and the "dispenser control board" answer has nothing to do with the lights....Unplugging the machine was also a stupid answer - Sears only "right" answer is to call their tech to come out and pay them a ridiculous service fee. If this is happening on all these same models it should still be warranted even after warranty is past. Sears used to have the best service in the industry - no more.....................

Read More
Phil -
December 24, 2015
See more answers