Model #20513 KENMORE Faucet shower

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Question and Answers

Q:

Dishwasher won't fill - what part do I need? 66515974992 Kenmore Dishwasher

A:

Searspartsdirect.com is always a great resource to find the answers to your parts questions. Your Sears partsdirect expert will research your question and respond within two business days but usually sooner. Thank you for using Searspartsdirect.com! 

 

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Yadira B -
March 14, 2013
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

There are several possible reasons why the dishwasher is letting not any water in.

 

  • Faulty float switch
  • Water inlet valve
  • Electronic control 
When you lift and lower the float, you should hear a faint click sound of the mirco switch opening and closing. If you do not hear the micro switch making a faint click sound, it could have faulty micro switch. The micro switch is located under the tub underneath the float.
 
The water inlet valve could be faulty. In order to confirm this, the water inlet valve wire connections can be disconnected and the water valve can be tested for Ohm resistance with an Ohm meter. The water valve should measure between 695-995 Ohms of resistance.
 
It does not measure any resistance, the water valve is bad.
 
If the float switch and water valve is Okay, and you confirmed the water supply up the water inlet valve, I suspect a faulty electronic control board. The only way to diagnose if the control board is faulty is to measure the AC voltage supply to the water inlet valve. You will need to start the dishwasher and monitor the voltage supply for at least a couple of minutes after starting the dishwasher. If 120 volts is measured, the control board is Okay and would have to suspect a faulty water inlet valve providing there is water supply up to the valve.
NOTE: I do not recommend measuring the voltage supply unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so; otherwise I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair the dishwasher.
 
To access the water inlet valve and float switch, the lower toe panel can be removed by taking the screws out.
 
 If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link:Sears Home Services.
 
 
 

 

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 14, 2013
A:

Thanks for your prompt answer! With the lower toe panel off, I see a disc shaped thing with a rubber water line coming in and two electrical leads. With the leads removed, the resistance is infinite across those two terminals. If by "not measure any resistance" you mean infinity , so I assume it is OK. PLEASE REPLY. THANK YOU!

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Howard -
March 14, 2013
A:

Howard; The water inlet valve will have the water supply connected to it. With the two wires disconected from the water valve solenoid, the Ohm resistance should be between 695 and 995 Ohms. It should no measure infinity but it is likely okay. You should hear the water inlet hum when 120 volts is applied to. You will likely need to measure the voltage supply to the valve with a voltage meter next.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 15, 2013
A:

The water inlet valve resistance reads infinity on my VOM. The supply voltage to the valve reads near zero when the dishwasher is running. I checked for several minutes. DOES THIS MEAN THE CONTOL BOARD IS FAULTY? Last night I ordered the water inlet valve and it is probably not needed. I'll call the parts line and find out how much the control unit is; if it is as over priced as the water inlet valve appears to be, I will probably throw out the dishwasher instead of repairing it. It cost more than double what our first dishwasher did and lasted a third as long.

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Howard -
March 15, 2013
A:

Howard; If your monitoring the votlage meter when you have it connected to the two wires connected to the water inlet valve and you never see 120VAC, I would have to suspect a faulty control board. If you have not disconnected the float switch and measured it for continuity, I would do so. If the float switch is faulty, it will break the neutral supply to the fill valve and it will not enegize and open. The control is approximately $150.00.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 15, 2013
A:

Thanks - is there a DIAGRAM or instructions for how to get ACCESS to the flost switch? I can feel it from the bottom, hear the click when it moves, and I can move it from the top. WHAT DO I HAVE TO REMOVE TO GET AT THE CONTACTS TO THE SWITCH, IN ORDER TO TEST CONTINUITY? I would gladly PURCHASE A REPAIR MANUAL for the unit!

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Howard -
March 15, 2013
A:

I think I lost you over the weekend. Is there a DIAGRAM or instructions for how to get ACCESS to the float switch? I can feel it from the bottom, hear the click when it moves, and I can move it from the top. WHAT DO I AHVE TO REMOVE TO GET AT THE CONTACTS TO THE SWITCH< IN ORDER TO TEST CONTINUITY? I would gladly PURCHASE A REPAIR MANUAL for the unit! There is a metal plate in front of the microswitch, and no obvious means of getting behind that. I need to know how to disassemble enough to reach the microswitch, so that I can check continuity as you recommend WITHOUT damaging anything else. Please reply. Thanks.

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Howard -
March 18, 2013
A:

Howard: You can access and disconnect the float switch once the lower access panel has been taken off. Look under the top directly under the float and you will see two wires connected to the float switch. If you hear the float switch making a faint clicking sound when raise and lower and the float, the float switch is likely Okay but you can still disconnect it and test it with the Ohm meter for continuity. It should measure continuity when the float is down.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 19, 2013
A:

Joey S: The lower access panel has BEEN OFF for FIVE DAYS and there is a STAMPED GALVANIZED METAL PLATE with warning labels in 3 languages directly IN FRONT OF the float switch. There are no screws nor any other obvious way to REMOVE the plate, which stands vertically about 2-1/4 inches high and runs across the entire front of the dishwasher (BEHIND where the "lower access panel" came off, and IN FRONT OF the float switch). The float switch does make a slight click when the float is moved up and down - either from the bottom, reaching in BEHIND THE PLATE WHERE I CANNOT SEE, or by moving the float up and down inside the dishwasher. So I cannot GET TO the switch and SEE it in order to CHECK continuity. If the float switch is OK and the water inlet valve is OK, that leaves the $150 control board as the only thing to replace - AND I HAVE NO FREAKING IDEA HOW TO REMOVE IT OR CHECK IT, BECAUSE SEARS DOES NOT PROVIDE A MANUAL OR A PDF SHOWING HOW THE UNIT HAS TO BE TAKEN APART TO GET AT ANY OF THESE PARTS!!! Back to the float switch, you cannot SEE it without removing that galvanized metal plate - and I have no idea HOW to do that. I suppose you could take a crow bar and jerk the damned thing out, but that would surely damage something; the only other way I know to SEE the float switch is to remove the ENTIRE DISHWASHER from the cabinet and TURN THE WHOLE THING UPSIDE DOWN. I can buy a LAWN MOWER from Sears and get an EXPLODED DIAGRAM of EVERY SINGLE PART IN IT and HOW THEY GO TOGETHER - but you apparently have NO diagram or manual for this dishwasher! That being the case, how in the world would I ever get the control board out, much less install a new one? PLEASE LET ME KNOW HOW I CAN BUY THE CORRECT INFORMATION WITH A PARTS / DISASSEMBLY DIAGRAM. Thanks. If this turns out to be a racket just to get me to call a Sears repairman, I've already bought my last dime's worth of anything from Sears - lawnmowers OR dishwashers.

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Howard -
March 19, 2013
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