Model #20513 KENMORE Faucet shower

  • Unit Parts
    3 Results
Find part by diagram >

Question and Answers

Q:

Dishwasher won't fill - what part do I need? 66515974992 Kenmore Dishwasher

A:

Searspartsdirect.com is always a great resource to find the answers to your parts questions. Your Sears partsdirect expert will research your question and respond within two business days but usually sooner. Thank you for using Searspartsdirect.com! 

 

Read More
Yadira B -
March 14, 2013
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

There are several possible reasons why the dishwasher is letting not any water in.

 

  • Faulty float switch
  • Water inlet valve
  • Electronic control 
When you lift and lower the float, you should hear a faint click sound of the mirco switch opening and closing. If you do not hear the micro switch making a faint click sound, it could have faulty micro switch. The micro switch is located under the tub underneath the float.
 
The water inlet valve could be faulty. In order to confirm this, the water inlet valve wire connections can be disconnected and the water valve can be tested for Ohm resistance with an Ohm meter. The water valve should measure between 695-995 Ohms of resistance.
 
It does not measure any resistance, the water valve is bad.
 
If the float switch and water valve is Okay, and you confirmed the water supply up the water inlet valve, I suspect a faulty electronic control board. The only way to diagnose if the control board is faulty is to measure the AC voltage supply to the water inlet valve. You will need to start the dishwasher and monitor the voltage supply for at least a couple of minutes after starting the dishwasher. If 120 volts is measured, the control board is Okay and would have to suspect a faulty water inlet valve providing there is water supply up to the valve.
NOTE: I do not recommend measuring the voltage supply unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so; otherwise I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair the dishwasher.
 
To access the water inlet valve and float switch, the lower toe panel can be removed by taking the screws out.
 
 If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link:Sears Home Services.
 
 
 

 

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 14, 2013
A:

Thanks for your prompt answer! With the lower toe panel off, I see a disc shaped thing with a rubber water line coming in and two electrical leads. With the leads removed, the resistance is infinite across those two terminals. If by "not measure any resistance" you mean infinity , so I assume it is OK. PLEASE REPLY. THANK YOU!

Read More
Howard -
March 14, 2013
A:

Howard; The water inlet valve will have the water supply connected to it. With the two wires disconected from the water valve solenoid, the Ohm resistance should be between 695 and 995 Ohms. It should no measure infinity but it is likely okay. You should hear the water inlet hum when 120 volts is applied to. You will likely need to measure the voltage supply to the valve with a voltage meter next.

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 15, 2013
A:

The water inlet valve resistance reads infinity on my VOM. The supply voltage to the valve reads near zero when the dishwasher is running. I checked for several minutes. DOES THIS MEAN THE CONTOL BOARD IS FAULTY? Last night I ordered the water inlet valve and it is probably not needed. I'll call the parts line and find out how much the control unit is; if it is as over priced as the water inlet valve appears to be, I will probably throw out the dishwasher instead of repairing it. It cost more than double what our first dishwasher did and lasted a third as long.

Read More
Howard -
March 15, 2013
A:

Howard; If your monitoring the votlage meter when you have it connected to the two wires connected to the water inlet valve and you never see 120VAC, I would have to suspect a faulty control board. If you have not disconnected the float switch and measured it for continuity, I would do so. If the float switch is faulty, it will break the neutral supply to the fill valve and it will not enegize and open. The control is approximately $150.00.

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 15, 2013
A:

Thanks - is there a DIAGRAM or instructions for how to get ACCESS to the flost switch? I can feel it from the bottom, hear the click when it moves, and I can move it from the top. WHAT DO I HAVE TO REMOVE TO GET AT THE CONTACTS TO THE SWITCH, IN ORDER TO TEST CONTINUITY? I would gladly PURCHASE A REPAIR MANUAL for the unit!

Read More
Howard -
March 15, 2013
A:

I think I lost you over the weekend. Is there a DIAGRAM or instructions for how to get ACCESS to the float switch? I can feel it from the bottom, hear the click when it moves, and I can move it from the top. WHAT DO I AHVE TO REMOVE TO GET AT THE CONTACTS TO THE SWITCH< IN ORDER TO TEST CONTINUITY? I would gladly PURCHASE A REPAIR MANUAL for the unit! There is a metal plate in front of the microswitch, and no obvious means of getting behind that. I need to know how to disassemble enough to reach the microswitch, so that I can check continuity as you recommend WITHOUT damaging anything else. Please reply. Thanks.

Read More
Howard -
March 18, 2013
A:

Howard: You can access and disconnect the float switch once the lower access panel has been taken off. Look under the top directly under the float and you will see two wires connected to the float switch. If you hear the float switch making a faint clicking sound when raise and lower and the float, the float switch is likely Okay but you can still disconnect it and test it with the Ohm meter for continuity. It should measure continuity when the float is down.

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 19, 2013
A:

Joey S: The lower access panel has BEEN OFF for FIVE DAYS and there is a STAMPED GALVANIZED METAL PLATE with warning labels in 3 languages directly IN FRONT OF the float switch. There are no screws nor any other obvious way to REMOVE the plate, which stands vertically about 2-1/4 inches high and runs across the entire front of the dishwasher (BEHIND where the "lower access panel" came off, and IN FRONT OF the float switch). The float switch does make a slight click when the float is moved up and down - either from the bottom, reaching in BEHIND THE PLATE WHERE I CANNOT SEE, or by moving the float up and down inside the dishwasher. So I cannot GET TO the switch and SEE it in order to CHECK continuity. If the float switch is OK and the water inlet valve is OK, that leaves the $150 control board as the only thing to replace - AND I HAVE NO FREAKING IDEA HOW TO REMOVE IT OR CHECK IT, BECAUSE SEARS DOES NOT PROVIDE A MANUAL OR A PDF SHOWING HOW THE UNIT HAS TO BE TAKEN APART TO GET AT ANY OF THESE PARTS!!! Back to the float switch, you cannot SEE it without removing that galvanized metal plate - and I have no idea HOW to do that. I suppose you could take a crow bar and jerk the damned thing out, but that would surely damage something; the only other way I know to SEE the float switch is to remove the ENTIRE DISHWASHER from the cabinet and TURN THE WHOLE THING UPSIDE DOWN. I can buy a LAWN MOWER from Sears and get an EXPLODED DIAGRAM of EVERY SINGLE PART IN IT and HOW THEY GO TOGETHER - but you apparently have NO diagram or manual for this dishwasher! That being the case, how in the world would I ever get the control board out, much less install a new one? PLEASE LET ME KNOW HOW I CAN BUY THE CORRECT INFORMATION WITH A PARTS / DISASSEMBLY DIAGRAM. Thanks. If this turns out to be a racket just to get me to call a Sears repairman, I've already bought my last dime's worth of anything from Sears - lawnmowers OR dishwashers.

Read More
Howard -
March 19, 2013
A:

By the way, the part that I measured infinite resistance on is shown on Sears diagram http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/P9100269-00008.png as Part #46 "WATER LEVEL SWITCH." For the life of me, I cannot FIND anything at the front of the dishwasher under the lower access panel that is the WATER INLET VALVE. WHERE IS IT? If I could FIND it, then I could measure it with an ohmmeter. Thanks.

Read More
Howard -
March 19, 2013
A:

Howard: The water inlet valve will be connected to the water supply line. The water valve is located under the dishwasher in front left corner. The water inlet valve will either have a copper water supply line or possibly a plastic water line and the water inlet valve will also have rubber hose connected to it leading to right side of the tub where the water enters into the tub.

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 19, 2013
A:

Thanks. After removing BOTH the access cover AND the toe kick plate below it off, I can see the water inlet valve on the lower left at the bottom. With the terminals removed, I measure a resistance of approximately 995 Ohms. When I run the dishwasher, I measure zero volte AC across the connector to the water inlet valve, so the control board is probably bad, unless you can tell me how to trace another connection to test. HOW DO I GET ACCESS TO THE CONTOL BOARD? DO YOU KNOW THE PART NUMBER AFTER I GET THERE? Thanks. I still have no idea how to get AT the float switch on the right side to check continuity, since it is behind the metal plate I described earlier.

Read More
Howard -
March 19, 2013
A:

Howard: There is one more component under the dishwasher which is a pressure switch. It will have small rubber hose connected to the pressure switch and the base of the pump. The pressure switch will have a Gray wire with a Orange stripe and a Blue wire with a Black stripe. This pressure switch will trip and close a contact if it senses too much back pressure within the pump and it will cause the control to stop the motor and reverse direction to pump out the water then add fresh water. For testing only, disconnect one of the two wires connected to the pressure switch and see what happens. If it continues to run and never fill, then I would have to suspect a faulty electronic control board or an open circuit in the water valve circuit between the valve, float switch and/or the control board. To access the control board, all you have to do is open the door and remove the screws located behind the control panel. I also added an image of the wiring diagram below. The control board however will have to be shipped off for repair/rebuild and I don't believe SearsPartsDirect will stock it. The control board will need to be shipped off to CoreCentric Solutions. Here is the URL http://www.corecentricsolutions.com/ Here is the PH# to SearsPartsDirect if you want to call them and see if they stock the control board. 1-800-366-7278 I added an image below with the wiring diagram that will be helpful.

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 20, 2013
A:

Thanks. Your message was received without any image.

Read More
Howard -
March 20, 2013
A:

Howard: Copy the URL and past it in the browser to see the image. http://www.managemylife.com/images/31164/original/80511291_wire_diagram.JPG?1363777052

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 20, 2013
A:

Enter your replyThanks for your patience with me; I have to work on this when I can, and it has gone slowly. I have enough of the dishwasher taken apart to get at the water inlet valve and the microswitch under the float. The resistance across the two terminals of the water inlet valve is approximately 995 ohms, and the float microswitch has continuity . It is looking more like the control board is the issue, which is bad news since the part is no longer available, and CoreConcentric Solutions does not have it listed on their website. ONE OTHER QUESTION: In the link you sent me March 20, it showed (upper right hand of first page image by the word FILL) a K3 RELAY with terminals K8 and K9 in series between the TCO and the Overfill Switch on the Float. WHERE IS THAT RELAY? HOW CAN I FIND IT AND PURCHASE A REPLACEMENT PART? Or is it part of the control board that´┐Ż??s no longer available? I can see the control board now and have the ribbon cable disconnected; I see 3 black cubes with SIEMENS part numbers on them, but no points on the circuit board that I can identify as K8 or K9. Please let me know how to identify or replace the K3 relay. Thanks.

Read More
Howard -
March 25, 2013
A:

Howard: The relay is part of the contorl board. If CoreCentrics cannot repair your control board, then it looks like it's time to replace the dishwasher.

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 26, 2013
A:

Can you please identify WHICH component on the circuit board contains the K3 relay Please let me know the approximate location and what the component containing the K3 relay is or looks like. THANKS FOR YOUR PERSEVERANCE!

Read More
Howard -
March 26, 2013
A:

Howard: We do not have a picture of this control board nor do I have one to look at. If you take the control board out of the housing and and follow the the blue wire with the black stripe, it will lead you to the relay. Or; you may have to follow the solder trail on the back of the control board where the blue wire with black stripe is connected, and it will likely lead you to the K3 relay. The tan wire leading from the TCO will also connect to K3 relay. Look at the wiring diagram if needed.

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 26, 2013
A:

Thanks. I took the circuit board out and found P9 - the blue wire with black stripe- and P8 -the tan wire - as the bottom two terminals on the connector at the upper left corner of the circuit board. The P9 and P8 labels are on the circuit board, visible AFTER you remove the connector. The whole board sits in a tray which has a label on the BACK reading WHIRLPOOL Part No. 9744483, then a barcode with 4448300024721, ASSEMBLED IN MEXICO 9305. Perhaps CoreCentric Solutions or Whilrpool can find the part. There are 3 black boxes near this that may be icecube style relays that all say SIEMENS 24V and have other markings, and they appear to be soldered to the board. This tray sits in the hottest, dampest part of the dishwasher, and the circuit board is held in place by 8, count em, 8 plastic tabs that are BRITTLE PLASTIC that you must flex in order to remove the board.

Read More
Howard -
March 26, 2013
A:

Howard: I would think if you shipped the control board to CoreCentric Solutions, they should be able to rebuild the control board. I would call and verify if they would or not. I do not think Whirlpool will have any otherwise it would be available for ordering. I wish you good luck and have a good day.

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 26, 2013
A:

Thanks Joey S. CoreCentric Solutions just wrote back and asked for the part number. I went on the FSP website and searched for 9744483 and pulled up a page saying the manufacturer has replaced it with PartSelect Number PS731638, which after a $40 discount costs $205.13. I hope CoreCentric can beat that. I've struggled with this thing an hour at a time for 10 days, and I'd spend some money to repair it. At $205 plus my time, I agree it is time for a new dishwasher. Disappointing durability, but I appreciate your help. You have a good day as well.

Read More
Howard -
March 26, 2013
A:

CoreCentric Solutions replied that they do not have a control board in stock and they do not offer a repair service for it. They suggested I contact the manufacturer for it, and what you call it so that I can order it from Sears.

Read More
Howard -
March 28, 2013
A:

Not sure where the rest of the message I just sent is, since it does not show on the screen. Please advise if the component that clips onto the top edge of the control board with two wires attached to it is the TCO. If so, how do I test it ? Can you direct me to ordering information for it?

Read More
Howard -
March 28, 2013
A:

Also, if this device is the TCO, it reads zero resistance at room temperature, outside the dishwasher. Thanks.

Read More
Howard -
March 28, 2013
A:

Howard: Based on your description, that is the TCO, It can be disconnected and tested for continuity with an Ohm meter. If the dishwasher operates, the TCO is Okay.

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 29, 2013
See more answers