Model #2037 DIRT DEVIL Vacuum, Canister

  • Can Vac - 082023/2037/2060
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  • Schematic, Wiring
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Question and Answers

Q:

Amana fridge

A:

The Refrigerator is one of the most important appliances in the home and by far a must need. So I am understanding your concern over the issue that is currently happening. I have researched your issue on this website and came across a question that is similar to yours. The expert provides further detailed information that might enlighten you.

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Priscilla V -
August 31, 2011
A:

Your description seems to indicate that you have a problem with the automatic defrost system and not with the thermistors. I provided some service test information in the first image below that shows how to test the defrost system and the thermistors. You can use that information to test the refrigerator. I recommend that you test the thermistors to see if they are okay using that service test program. If those thermistors are okay, I recommend that you check the status of the defrost thermostat. If that defrost thermostat is "open" then that is probably causing your cooling problem. If that circuit is okay, I recommend that you force a defrost mode to see if that defrost heater is working properly. This tips will likely help you determine the cause of your cooling problem. I provided a wiring diagram for the refrigerator in the second image below.

Be sure that you unplug the refrigerator to disconnect electrical power before accessing internal components.

You can order parts from the Sears PartsDirect website.

If you need more help, reply with additional details based on the diagnostic tests described.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 02, 2011
A:

I have followed the directions as outlined above. The thermistors passed so next was the defrost thermostat. The results of this test was defrost thermostat shorted. I ran the force defrost mode and noticed the coils has thawed some. So, I'm looking for confirmation from you that it's the defrost thermostat which will need to be replaced. Now, the next question is: Is it part number: W10196393 as I did not see any listed by thermostat. Thanks!

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bryant -
September 02, 2011
A:

The test that you ran on the defrost thermostat indicates that the thermostat is probably okay. It should show that it is "short" in that test. If it was "open" during that test and the freezer is at normal operating temperature then you would probably need to replace that defrost thermostat because it would prevent the defrost heater from working. Since that component tested good, I do not recommend that you replace it. Since defrost heater was apparently working, I recommend that you force a defrost cycle once or twice more and then see if the refrigerator cools properly. If it does, then a single incident of excessive frost build-up could have been causing your cooling problem. This could have been caused by a door being left open. If this does not fix the problem, reply with additional details and we will continue to help you diagnose this problem.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 02, 2011
A:

Ok, so we know the defrost thermostat shows "S" or shorted. I ran a forced defrost cycle and the refrigerator is cooling again. My concern is that this issue has occurred before and (at the time) my resolution was to pull the back panel off and thaw the iced up coils. Any thoughts on how we should proceed?

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bryant -
September 02, 2011
A:

There are several reasons why you could be getting this excessive frost build-up that the defrost system is not able to take care of through normal operation. If the refrigerator is in a very humid environment and has a warm air leak into the cabinet or the doors are frequently opened, this could cause excessive frost buildup. Any leak of warm air into the cabinet will cause this same problem. Check the door gaskets and door alignment for any potential problems. Even though the defrost thermostat shows that it is short at normal operating temperatures in the freezer, it could be "opening" at too low of a temperature so that the defrost heater does not stay on for long enough to properly melt the frost off of the evaporator. I provided a link below this response that explains the defrost system in top mount and side by side refrigerators. The defrost system in your bottom mount refrigerator essentially works the same way. This may help you understand that system and the potential failures that can cause the excessive frost buildup that you are encountering. If this problem is happening every once in a while, then you could have environmental factors such as high humidity and frequent door openings causing the excessive frost buildup. Conducting an extra Forced Defrost procedure would help you keep the refrigerator cooling properly in that situation. If this is a constant problem, then you could have a failure in the defrost thermostat (opening too soon) or the control board (not initiating the defrost cycle frequently enough). The control board uses programming based on compressor run time and length of defrost cycle to determine how often to run the automatic defrost cycle. If the defrost thermostat is bad, it could be causing problems with the scheduling of the defrost cycles. If all of the components in the defrost system are good, you could have a bad control board. I recommend that you monitor the refrigerator for a couple of days. (continued below)

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 03, 2011
A:

If the excessive frost on the evaporator continues to reappear and is not melted off properly, you will probably need to replace the defrost thermostat. If you still have the same problem after replacing that component, then you will probably need to replace the control board. The other option is to have a service technician examine the system and replace parts. If you access internal components yourself, be sure that you UNPLUG the refrigerator first. Reply with additional details if you need more help.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 03, 2011
A:

Lyle, I'm sort of joining this conversation late, but I'm having a similar problem with our Amana ABC2037DTB refrigerator. About 4-5 years ago we had the electronics module replaced (the fridge was running warm). Having the same problem this time and I discovered that the freezer wasn't defrosting. I thawed everything out and checked the defrost heater for continuity and it checked out ok. I also ran all of the tests you posted earlier and everything checked out. One additional step I tried was to force it into a defrost cycle but it didn't seem to heat up the defrost heater at all (it was cold to the touch). At this point I'm not entirely sure what the problem might be ? Any ideas ? Thanks.

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Spencer -
February 18, 2012
A:

Hello Spencer. Since that defrost heater did not heat up, I recommend that you check that defrost thermostat. You will need to plug that refrigerator back in and let it cool down to operating temperature before checking that defrost thermostat using the Service Test mode that is provided in the image that I posted on the first response to this thread. Once the evaporator is cooled down to operating temperature, that defrost thermostat should show "S" (short) during that test. If it still reads "O" (open) then you could have a bad defrost thermostat. Also, that defrost thermostat will be "open" and will normally prevent the forced defrost mode from working unless the evaporator is at the normal operating temperature (around zero degrees). If that defrost thermostat is bad, then replacing it may fix your problem. If that thermostat is good, then you may have a wiring failure or a bad control board. I provided a wiring schematic and a more detailed wiring diagram in the image below for your refrigerator. This may help you check the wire harness connections. Be sure that you UNPLUG the refrigerator before accessing internal components. If you need more help, reply with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 20, 2012
A:

Thanks Lyle. I was able to perform a few additional tests tonight. I had found out that I had one side of the heater disconnected from testing it for continuity the other day (DUH!!!) I got it reconnected and forced it to go into defrost mode from the electronic controls and that worked (it heated up and defrosted correctly). I also did the defrost thermostat test again and it showed "S" (short) during the test. I also made sure that it was at normal operating temperature (ice cold). I figure to let it run for a couple more days and see if it starts to frost up again.

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Spencer -
February 21, 2012
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Q:

Please provde information on advancing defrost cycle instructions for Amana bottom freezer #ABC2037DPS.

A:

I understand how important it is to have proper information about defrosting your refrigerator so that your food will not get frost all over it. While you are waiting for an expert answer, I did manage to find a link that will provide you with more information about your problem. I hope my link is useful.

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Joseph P. -
December 14, 2010
A:

Thank you for your question. On this model the defrost cycle is controlled by a circuit board. You can force the defrost cycle to come on by programming commands on the control. I am sending you the service manual instructions covering the information you need to know. Please click on the attachment below. If you do not see it, check your e-mail.

Remember to disconnect power before attempting access and use extreme caution when checking voltage.

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biker dave -
Sears Technician
December 15, 2010
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Q:

I am looking to buy a 15895790 dishwasher that was in the paper. Can you tell the age by the model number? How much is it worth?

A:

I can see your looking to buy a Kenmore Dishwasher that you saw in the paper. I highly suggest for you to call Sears Home Services so they can give you more detailed information on the age of your product. I attached the link below, I hope this is helpful!!!!

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Raquel F -
August 31, 2010
A:

The age of the product is determined by the serial number. The age is determined by the second Digit/Letter in the serial number. I believe the dishwasher was made in 1997. I will not be able to tell you what it's worth. I personally would not buy a used dishwasher that is 13 years old dishwasher. I added a link to Kenmore dishwashers if you would like to shop for a new dishwasher .

  • 0 ---- 1980/2010/2040 *E ---- 1995/2025/2055
  • 1 ---- 1981/2011/2041 *F ---- 1996/2026/2056
  • 2 ---- 1982/2012/2042 *G ---- 1997/2027/2057
  • 3 ---- 1983/2013/2043 *H ---- 1998/2028/2058
  • 4 ---- 1984/2014/2044 *J ---- 1999/2029/2059
  • 5 ---- 1985/2015/2045 *K ---- 2000/2030/2060
  • 6 ---- 1986/2016/2046 *L ---- 2001/2031/2061
  • 7 ---- 1987/2017/2047 *M ---- 2002/2032/2062
  • 8 ---- 1988/2018/2048 *P ---- 2003/2033/2063
  • 9 ---- 1989/2019/2049 *R ---- 2004/2034/2064
  • X ---- 1990/2020/2050 *S ---- 2005/2035/2065
  • A ---- 1991/2021/2051 *T ---- 2006/2036/2066
  • B ---- 1992/2022/2052 *U ---- 2007/2037/2067
  • C ---- 1993/2023/2053 *W ---- 2008/2038/2068
  • D ---- 1994/2024/2054 *Y ---- 2009/2039/2069

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
September 01, 2010
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