Model #2012 MAKITA Planer

  • 12" Planer
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Question and Answers

Q:

Eco light display will not shut off

A:

I'm sorry that you are having some difficulties with yourKenmore Dishwasher. I did some research for you at Managemylife.com and found an expert answer to a similar question that may help until your expert can respond to your specific question. The link is attached below. Remember that your expert can walk you through a repair like this and even assist you on ordering any required parts. If you do decide to schedule service and have a qualified technician help you, I have also attached a link to Searshomeservices.com.

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James -
August 02, 2011
A:

Your description points to a bad user interface control panel in the dishwasher since you cannot select other cycles besides the ECO cycle. If you can select other cycles but the light on that cycle just stays lit, it can indicate that you have a bad electronic control board in the dishwasher. If your dishwasher is still under warranty, I recommend that you call Sears at 1-800-469-4663 (1-800-4MY-HOME) and have the dishwasher repaired.

If the dishwasher is not under warranty, reply with additional details and we will assist you further.

You can schedule service for the dishwasher at this website if it is not still under the warranty: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
August 04, 2011
A:

My Kenmore Elite dishwasher 665.1392 model is having the same problem. Two reports in such a short period of time indicates a defect that should be looked in to, not just repaired. How do we get this escalated to a review and possible 'recall'?

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Kevin -
January 04, 2012
A:

Hello Kevin. I agree that 2 reports of this problem within a short period of time is a cause for concern. I have forwarded information on this problem to our product engineer for the dishwashers. A full model number and serial number of your dishwasher may help with the communication and investigation of that problem as a possible widespread defect. If you get a chance, reply back with that information. If the dishwasher is still under warranty, I recommend that you have it serviced. If the dishwasher is no longer under warranty and you want to fix this problem yourself, let us know and we will assist you further with troubleshooting and technical help.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 05, 2012
A:

Thanks for the speedy response. Mod# 665.13923K010 Ser# F03903872 All other lights/functions work fine. It is no longer under warranty and I would be interested in fixing it myself if Sears is not willing to step up to the plate.

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Kevin -
January 05, 2012
A:

Since the dishwasher is not under warranty, the repair will not be covered. I do not see any widespread common problems or recalls on that dishwasher at this time. You will normally need to replace the control panel to fix this problem. You can order that part from the Sears PartsDirect.com website (see link below). That control panel is listed in several colors. You can order the color that you need. Shut off the house circuit breaker for the dishwasher before accessing internal components and replacing that panel. You can remove screws from the top of the inner door panel to release that control keypad. Reply with additional details if you need more help with that repair. There is a chance that you will also need to replace that electronic control board in the console if you replace that key panel and still have problems programming the dishwasher. Let us know if you need more help.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 06, 2012
A:

I have a Kenmore Elite dishwasher. Model # 665.13922K010, SN F03605218. I have the same problem with the Eco light staying dimly light all the time. I ran the dishwasher two days ago and the light was not on. I noticed that the light was on this morning. I am single and live alone so I know that no one touched the button. If I touch it the light goes bright like it does when you select it. If I touch cancel it goes dim again, but does not turn off. I can select any other functions and the dishwasher appears to work normally except for the fact that the eco light stays dimly light. I bought this dishwasher in Feb of 2011 so it is 15 months old and obviously out of warranty. What do I need to do to get this fixed? Has this been identified as a defect? Thanks for your help.

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Jeff -
May 20, 2012
A:

That type of problem is often caused by a problem with the control board and/or the user interface console. There is a chance that you have some humid air or moisture getting into that console through the air vent area. You can shut off the house circuit breaker for the dishwasher and check the seals on that vent. Let us know if you need help accessing that area or checking those vents. I will check again for any common problems with that dishwasher.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
May 21, 2012
A:

Well it seems like there might be some kind of short causing the light to stay on. I checked the owners manual and it doesn't say how to get to the seal. Can you tell me how to check the seal to see if it is bad?

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Jeff -
May 21, 2012
A:

Hello Jeff. I added an image below that shows how to access the seals on that type of vent. Your dishwasher will be slightly different than the one shown below but the basic procedure is the same. Be sure that you shut off the house circuit breaker for the dishwasher before accessing that area. This information may help you check that vent and the seal. A leak in that vent area can cause humidity and moisture to enter the control area. That could be causing the short in that board or console and cause the Eco light to stay on. That board and console may still be okay. It will probably work properly once the control dries out. If you find and fix a problem with that vent seal, then you may be able to prevent any further problems without replacing any parts. If you need more help, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
May 22, 2012
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Q:

How do I get my icemaker to work? There is no ice/water in the system anywhere.

A:

I see you are having problems with your Ice Maker not working properly, I can see how frustrating it may be. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question. I found the Manual for your Ice Maker. I attached the link below. Hope this helps!

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Dezeray S -
October 20, 2010
A:

Thank you for the attachment; however, that item did not help me; I have the user manual which you attached. That's what I used to do my earlier diagnostics. I am looking for the links to the actual repair manual and schematic websites which I can use to get additional diagnostic information and do some electrical troubleshooting. I would like to verify power is at the valve, I would like to see if a power bypass jumper actually activates the valve (that is, apply power direct to the valve). If it doesn't activate, the valve is dead and would need to be replaced. My suspicion is either the water in the line at the entry valve has frozen or the water inlet valve has failed. I'm not sure how I would check the water flow at the valve itself without making a mess.

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Space Station -
October 20, 2010
A:

I will provide you with detailed technical information and troubleshooting to help you diagnose and repair this problem. First, I recommend verifying that you have proper water flow through the water dispenser in the freezer door. If water flow is weak, I recommend that you pull the water filter out and see if the water pressure and flow through the door dispenser improves. The housing for the filter has an automatic bypass so that water will flow properly with the filter removed.

If water flow significantly increases with the filter pulled out, I recommend that you leave it out and see if the ice maker will begin producing ice within a few hours. You will need to replace the water filter if this tip helps. This basic troubleshooting should not be overlooked. You may have already checked this issue.

The next step in troubleshooting is to check the diagnostic test system on the level sensing control boards on the side walls of the freezer. The first image below shows how to check the diagnostics on the control boards. If the red LED light flashes twice and the pauses and repeats when you open the door then it is likely working okay. Press in the flapper on the left side so that the beam is unblocked. The red LED should turn solid. If it does then the control boards should be okay. If the control boards are apparently bad, then they will need to be replaced. Unplug the refrigerator to disconnect power before accessing internal components. The second image shows how to replace these control boards. You can order a kit that has both boards from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the kit is 4389102.

If the level sensing control boards are okay, I recommend that you unplug the refrigerator and pull the ice maker module out. The third image shows how to remove the ice maker module. Carefully remove it and check the water fill tube protruding down from the roof of the freezer to see if it is frozen. If it is, then defrosting this line may fix your ice maker problem.

If the water fill tube is not frozen, I recommend that you replace the ice maker and manually fill the ice mold with water using a turkey baster or squirt bottle. See if the ice maker will cycle and eject the ice. Also check to see if the ice maker fills back up with water if it does eject the ice. If the ice maker module will not eject the ice then the module (part 2198597) will need to be replaced.

If the ice maker ejects the frozen cubes but does not refill, then you will need to conduct an advanced technical test to check the water valve. You will need a small piece of insulated wire such as door bell wire to create a "jumper" as shown in the 4th image below. To provide power to the ice maker module to conduct this test, you will need to follow these steps:

  • Unplug the refrigerator and pull out the receiver control board as shown in that 4th image.

  • Carefully place the stripped ends of the jumper wire into the wire harness locations between the yellow wire and the black/white wire in the receiver board harness that is on the side wall of the freezer. This will provide power to the ice maker module when the door switch is in the "open" position. This voltage path is drawn on the partial wiring diagram shown in the 5th image.

Remove the ice maker module as shown in the second image (with the refrigerator still unplugged ). Pull the cover off of the ice maker module to access the test points as shown in the 6th image below. You will need a separate large jumper wire with the ends stripped far enough to reach the contacts inside the test points of the ice maker. Fourteen gauge wire is recommended for this jumper. Place the jumper wire between the L and V terminals to test the water valve (with the refrigerator still _unplugged). Make sure that the wire harness to the ice maker module is plugged in properly. Position the ice maker module to the side (out of the way) and place a cup or container under the fill tube to catch water during this test. Push in on the door switch to simulate the freezer door being closed. Have someone plug in the refrigerator while you hold the door switch in. Once the refrigerator is plugged in, briefly let go of the door switch to see if water flows from the inlet water tube. Unplug the refrigerator as soon as this brief test is completed. If water did flow during this test then the water valve is okay. The ice maker module will need to be replaced since it did not energize the water valve during the harvest cycle.

If the water did not flow during this test then you will need to check the resistance through the circuit. The 7th image below shows how to check resistance through the water valve. You should measure about 300 ohms of resistance through the test points V and N (with the refrigerator still unplugged ). If not, then I recommend that you check the resistance of the ice maker water valve solenoid directly at the valve. The water valve is on the back, bottom portion of the refrigerator behind the service panel. If the valve is bad, it will need to be replaced.

These are complicated technical checks. Be sure that you follow the directions carefully. If you are not completely confident that you can safely diagnose this fairly complicated system, I recommend that you have a service technician repair this failure. Here is a link for the Sears Service website in case you need it: Sears Home Services .

I hope that this is the technical information that you were expecting. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details and we will help you further.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 29, 2011
A:

Here are more images.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
October 21, 2010
A:

This is the final image.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
October 21, 2010
A:

Lyle, thanks for the great info. I would like to list the steps i have taken and hopefully you can direct me on what to do next. i installed a new ice maker module 2198597, still no ice. Then I went onto this website for help. The red led blinking light acted correctly with your checks. I remover the receiver control board and jumped the blk/whi wire with the yellow and the icemaker started moving. It seemed to go through all the cycles but still no ice. With the wires still jumped, I added water to the ice tray with a cup and got ice in my hopper a little while later. When I did the 14guage jumper test on the side of the ice maker I couldn�t get anything to happen (this may have been my fault, im not sure what state the door sw was in during this). Finally I unplugged power and did the resistance tests. I got L&H heater test 73.5 ohms, L&M motor test 5.12 ohms, V&N water valve 1.6 ohms. What�s next? Thanks for your help

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joey -
August 03, 2011
A:

Hello Joey. Your description points to a failure in that water valve or a frozen fill tube. Check that fill tube to see if it is frozen (or clogged). The resistance reading through that water valve circuit from the ice maker module should be around 300 ohms. I recommend that you recheck that resistance reading. You can unplug the refrigerator and carefully place that insulated jumper wire in the harness of the receiver board as described above. Place a 14 gauge insulated jumper wire in the L and V test points on that ice maker module. Make sure that the stripped ends of that 14 gauge jumper wire are long enough so that you are hitting those contacts in side the ice maker module test point holes. Place a cup or container under the fill tube and then push in the freezer door switch and see if you get any water from the fill tube above the ice maker. If the fill tube is clear and you get no water through the fill valve during this test, then the inlet water valve will need to be replaced. I hope that this additional information helps. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
August 03, 2011
A:

NOTE: You will need to plug the refrigerator back in after placing the jumper wires in the receiver board harness and ice maker module in the above procedure. I left that step out in the above response.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
August 03, 2011
A:

hey Lyle, i finally got back to the issue. im not really sure how to check for a frozen tube. i took a wire hanger and sent it into the fill hose hole trying to feel ice and it felt clear. the water in the door works fine. as far as the resistance im still getting 1.8 ohms. i know im hitting the contacts because of how my meter reacts, it shows OL untill it touches the terminals. i followed the steps for the fill tube test and got nothing. could it be my inlet water valve? is this a common failure? how is it replaced? thanks for your help.

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joey -
August 13, 2011
A:

Hello Joey. Based on your description and the resistance reading on fill valve circuit, you will need to replace that inlet water valve assembly. That is not a common failure but it does occur occasionally. You can order that part from Sears PartsDirect.com (see link below). UNPLUG the refrigerator and shut off the water supply. You can follow the basic steps that are shown in the images below to replace that water valve assembly.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 16, 2011
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Q:

How to use remote controller model 139.30498 to work with opener model 139-655400 ?

A:

I know how helpful it is to have information to program a remote to your garage door. I was able to find a link that includes information for your garage door and remote. I attached the link below. An expert will respond shortly. I hope this is helpful.

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Jackie S -
June 25, 2012
A:

I can understand how difficult it can be to replace your old remotes. The little "dip switch" set is in the wall control of your opener, it's not on the main part of the opener where that stuff is on the newer models. If you opener up the faceplate of the wall control (if flips down usually) you will see a little bank of dip switches. Match the switches in the remote up with how they are on the inside of that wall control and that should get you back up and running again. I hope this helps. If you need further assistance, please reply to this thread. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
June 27, 2012
A:

AnneJ, Your comment of June 27, 2012 is not a possible solution to the problem of using the "30498" digital control with the Sears Model 76LE Garage door opener. While the old control does have a "DIP SWITCH", the new digital control is complete computerized. It has NO DIP-SWITCH at all. Thus the question still stands: How would anyone be able to configure the new digital controller "30f98" to work with my "Sears MODEL 76LE Garage Door Opener Digital Control" Model 139.655400"? Thank you for your consideration.

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Mark -
December 08, 2015
A:

I also chat online with an "expert" of Craftsman/Sears, who believes that the opener model No.139655400, probably was built in 1987, and hence no newer (post-1993) remote would work. It was also said that it is time to buy the entire opener new, as the replacement is not available today.

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RAJNIKANT -
January 12, 2016
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