Model #2001 RAMSEY Winch

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Question and Answers

Q:

panel display on Kenmore Elite refrigerator

A:

I know this type of information can be very helpful for you to have. While you are waiting for your expert answer, I did some research on the unit. I was unable to locate information that would be helpful with regards to your question at this time. Your expert will answer within 24-48 hours with detailed information. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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Jackie S -
December 02, 2011
A:

Thank you for your question. I can understand your concern. This type of problem will usually be caused from a defective main board. The main board controls the functions of the display board. When you reset the board by disconnecting the power and then reconnecting it and it corrected the problem for awhile, it further indicates the main board # 6871JB1280P has failed. It's available at SearsPartsDirect . I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, reply to this thread and I will assist you further.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
December 04, 2011
A:

Thanks Scott. I suspected that, but the front panel is obviously easier to get to and check. Can I test any part of this board for continuity to determine FOR SURE that this part is working properly so I don't order and install the wrong part? Thanks! Oh, also, can you tell me the current part number for this display control board if I were to need a new one?

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dave -
December 05, 2011
A:

I'm attaching the wiring diagram for the dispenser board to the main board on connection # 5. The main thing to check will be to see if, there are any loose wire connections at the boards and also the connection at the door hinge. If these connections and wires seem ok, the most likely problem will be with the main board. The dispenser board is # 3211JJ2001B. It will be an assembly. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
December 06, 2011
A:

Thanks again. It still bothers me that I have power clearly to this board when connected, which makes me suspect this board is the issue, although I have found continuity in all locations seemingly when I try to test it without being connected. My concern is that I am not properly testing the panel display and control board to know for sure. I guess I will just have to buy the new main board and see what happens and hope that is the problem. I just hate to take a $70 or $80 gamble - times are tight! :-) thanks so much for your help, I do really appreciate it.

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dave -
December 06, 2011
A:

I understand what you mean. Unfortunately, this is all the wiring and electrical information available for the dispenser. However, if all the wires and connections seem ok and if you are getting continuity readings, it would be very unusual for this to be a defective interface board. This problem is almost always caused by a defective main board. If you would like more assistance please let me know.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
December 06, 2011
A:

Scott I have the same issue as described above on slightly different model refrigerator (795.75542401) The only thing I can add is then when I unplug the refrigerator and plug it back in the display and the buttons work for maybe be 30 -45 seconds and then is not responsive. I thought that it might be the main board or the dispensor board. I ordered and replaced both and the problem has not been fixed. Any idea where to go from here? The refrigerator itself seems to be working fine, but I cannot change temperatures on either the refrigerator or freezer and it no longer indicates when the door is open, which was really helpful with kids in the house...:)

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Sharon -
January 04, 2012
A:

Sharon, Normally this would be defective main board problem, especially if it resets itself when the power is disconnected and then reconnected. However, since both boards have been replaced, with the same results, check the connections on both boards and also under the top door hinge. Be sure to disconnect power to the unit first. Also make sure this unit is plugged into a good three prong wall outlet and it has a good ground and the polarity is correct. By this I mean the small terminal in the outlet is hot and the larger terminal is common. If these checks are all ok, it may be a problem in the wiring in the door or the new board may be defective. In this case, I would strongly recommend having a technician check it. You can call 1-800-469-4663 to schedule a tech to come out. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
January 04, 2012
A:

I just replaced the main panel, and as feared, no impact to the front panel display. My next step was to be replacing the front board, but the above questions make me think I am headed down the same path of wasted money and time. As I said previously, I have some power indicated to that front panel, so I suspect it as the culprit, but can't know until I try it I guess. I have another question regarding repeated problems with the water reservoir that I am about to post separately.

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dave -
January 06, 2012
A:

Dave, check for loose connections first as described above. If the connections are all ok, it will lead to the interface board or the wires inside the door. If there is a wiring problem inside the door, then the complete door would need to be replaced. I look forward to assisting you with the reservoir problem.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
January 06, 2012
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Q:

How many cubic feet is this frid 10652703100 Kenmore Side-by-side refrigerator

A:

Thanks for the inquiry and for using SearsPartsDirect.com.

With the Kenmore 106 refrigerators, the cu/ft capacity is indicated by the third digit after the prefix of 106. In this case number 7 represents 27 cu/ft.

Hopefully this helps and let us know if we can be of any further assistance. Thanks for using SearsPartsDirect.com. 

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Jeff Wallace Sr -
Sears Technician
November 30, 2013
A:

Can you please tell me what current refrigerater is close to matching mine from 2001. I saw what you posted above about the third number from the six being the 27 but the guys in sears said this is not correct? thank you so much

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PAULA -
January 12, 2016
A:

Can you please tell me what current refrigerater is close to matching mine from 2001. I saw what you posted above about the third number from the six being the 27 but the guys in sears said this is not correct? thank you so much

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PAULA -
January 12, 2016
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Q:

Why won't my LG washer drain?

A:

You indicated that you drained the washer using the hose. I understand this to mean that you used the hose beside the pump filter as shown in the image below. You did not indicate that you pulled the pump filter to check for a clog or restriction. If you did not pull the filter out then I recommend that you follow the steps shown below to pull the pump filter out and check for a clog or restriction in this area. Since the tub drained using the hose beside this filter then it is likely that a clog or restriction in the pump filter is causing your drain problem. If you find no problems in this filter then you could have an undetected clog in the drain hose or you could have failed/clogged drain pump. If the pump is not running in the drain mode then you could have a failed control board or a wiring failure.

If you do not find a clog in the pump filter and need additional access to the pump and drain hose, you would need to remove the front panel as shown in the second image below. Be sure that you unplug the washer to disconnect electrical power before accessing internal components. Removing the front panel will provide you with access the pump and drain hose so that you can check further for a clog or restriction in the drain line. If the pump is not running, you can check the wiring connections on the pump and the control board using the information provided in the second image. I traced the voltage supply to the pump through the brown and black wires. The image of the control board shows a voltage check that a technician would make on the control board to determine whether proper voltage is being supplied to the pump circuit. I do not recommend that you take this live voltage measurement yourself. You can check the continuity of the circuit through the brown and black wires of the pump circuit. You should measure between 10 and 20 ohms of resistance through this circuit (you should measure this resistance with the washer still unplugged). This is a safer test than measuring live voltage. If the circuit is okay but the pump is not running then the control board would need to be replaced.

You can order parts from the Sears PartsDirect website if necessary. If you intend to remove the front panel of the washer I recommend that you order the special pliers (part number 383EER4001A) to remove the spring clamp on the door boot. The door boot is difficult to remove without this tool.

These tips should help you resolve this drain problem in your LG washer. If you need more help, resubmit your question with additional details.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
January 28, 2010
A:

I have the same problem on my LG Tromm WM2477HW. The water won't drain out of it. I removed the strainer and cleaned it out. Next I removed the pump using the instructions that Lyle posted above. There was a bit of algae inside the pump inlet and the small rubber drain hose used to manually drain the washer was completely plugged. I got the drain hose unblocked by blowing compressed air through it. I took the motor off the pump and examined inside the pump - nothing unusual there. The pump impeller is not seized. Next, I cleaned out the pump with hot water and an old toothbrush. Then, I bench tested the pump with 110VAC. It ran fine. Then I blew through the pump drain hose with compressed air - air come out the othe end of the hose, so the drain hose does not appear to be blocked. After all of this, I put the washer back together and ran a quick 18 minute rinse cycle. Water caomes in, the drum spins, but when it is time to pump the water back out at 13 seconds, the machine just sits there. The timer stayss at 13 secs and the light on the front flashes SPIN,but the drum is stationary - it just appears to sit there doing nothing. Is there some way for me to check if the pump is getting power? What is the next step to troubleshoot this? Thanks in advance. Lyle, your instructiions were extremely helpful. I cobbled up a tool out of an old pair of brake spring pliers to remove the gasket spring. That would be a difficult job to do without a special tool.

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Don -
March 13, 2011
A:

That should have read 13 "minutes" in the above post.... Took the pump off today and measured 13 ohms across the windings - the service manual says that it must be between 10-20 ohms, so the pump is OK. Tested the machine in "QC mode" and determined that the pump was getting 120VAC during the spin cycle. Turns out it was a loose connection at the pump motor. All is well now. The machine is draining again. I am running some smellywasher through it tonight to get rid of all of the algae. Thanks Lyle for posting the service manual - that was a huge help. I also found a link to a more recent WM2277 manual online at the link below. The QC Test Mode is really helpful to figure out what is going on. https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B5If-wTgYWH5MzYzYzAzNGQtMmNiNy00ZmFiLWI5NGQtODg0YTgzYTU5MzJk&hl=en

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Don -
March 14, 2011
A:

Thanks for posting that additional information Don.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 15, 2012
A:

Hi Lyle. Add me to the clogged drain hose list. My filter is clear but my drain hose is completely clogged. I tried using a wire to unclog it but it's packed in tightly. Will I have to remove the front of the machine and replace the drain hose? Thanks, Tristan

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Tristan -
March 01, 2012
A:

Hello Tristan. Thanks for the information on the clogged drain hose. That will help. If it that small drain hose on the side of the pump that is clogged, then that is not a failure that will significantly affect the normal operation of the washer. If your washer is draining okay and you don't mind catching some water that spills out of that pump filter area when you open it up, then you don't necessarily need to remove that front panel and bother with unclogging that small drain hose. If the large hose between the tub and the pump or the discharge hose between the pump and the house drain behind the washer is clogged, then you may need to open up that cabinet. Reply with additional details if you need more help with this repair.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 02, 2012
A:

Thanks for the reply. I'm getting a lot of water leaking during the wash cycle so evidently my brilliant "clogged drain hose" theory needs an overhaul. Last night I tried a rinse/spin and as soon as the tub started to fill, water started leaking out. Would a clogged pump do that?

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Tristan -
March 02, 2012
A:

There is a possibility that a leak in the drain pump or drain system could cause the leak that you are describing. A leak in the water supply or fill system could also cause that leak. Check the fill lines and fill hoses on the back of the washer. Make sure that those are not leaking. You can UNPLUG the washer and pull off the top panel. Carefully start a cycle with that top panel removed to see if you can determine the cause of the leak with that top panel removed. You may be able to determine the cause of the leak in that manner. If the leak is caused by a drain system component, then you probably won't be able to see the leak by just removing that top panel. You may have to UNPLUG the washer and remove that front panel to find the leak. With that front panel removed, you can manually fill the tub with some water to see if you can the source of the leak. If you need more help, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 02, 2012
A:

Excellent ideas, Lyle. I had the top off yesterday and all the connections look solid. I like the idea of starting a fill cycle while looking in from the top. OtherwiseI'll unplug the machine, take the front off and fill the tub. Thanks!

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Tristan -
March 02, 2012
A:

Hi Lyle, I have the machine apart. The leak was coming from the area where the drain hose ties into the back box in the lower left front. However, when I put water in the tub (about 2 gallons) nothing leaks.... any suggestions? Also, it looks like the black drain hose should pull out from the back of that black box but when I try it doesn't budge. I don't want to break it, but should it come off with enough force? If I can remove it I can clean it out. Thanks, Tristan

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Tristan -
March 02, 2012
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