Model #153337513 KENMORE Water heater, Gas

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Question and Answers

Q:

Gas valve replacement - details not previously answered 153.337513

A:

Thank you for choosing Sears Parts Direct. I will be happy to help with your water heater. Upon researching model 153.337513; if the threads are fully covered it should be ready to go. If there is spots without it you could put a tiny bit over those spots. The plastic is to protect the tip in shipment. When you remove your old one you can see it’s not on there.

Thank you for choosing Sears. We appreciate your business. Have a great day.

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Jeff Wallace Jr -
Sears Technician
October 31, 2014
Q:

Hot Water Heater - Kenmore, model # 153.337513

A:

I know that it can be very frustrating to have issues with your hot water heater. There are several reasons for the water to cool down like this. The first is that there is not enough water to be used continuously. In a tank this size only about two-thirds of the water is actually hot. It will heat the cold water that is coming into the tank as it is being used, but if you are draining it quickly it will not heat fast enough. I would suggest you wait at least 10 to 15 minutes before beginning the next shower. This will give it plenty of time. Next, I would suggest you try increasing the temperature of the water. The standard temperature is 120 degrees, but you can increase this. I would not recommend anything over 140 degrees. This will heat the water faster, and it will force you to use less hot water. The last reason is a problem with the dip tube. This is the part of the unit that the cold water enter into. This allow the hot water in the tank to warm the water coming in. (The tube is in the hot water). If it has any cracks or breaks the cold water will mix directly with the hot. This will cool down the water rapidly, and it will take longer to reheat it. I would recommend that you have a technician inspect this. It is very difficult to remove. I hope this helps. Please feel free to let me know if you need further assistance. We are always here to help. Thank you for using Manage My Life.com.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
October 27, 2013
A:

Thank you, AnneJ for your quick response. I appreciate your input. I will try the first two ideas that you suggest but I am a pretty handy & hands-on homeowner that is willing to take a shot at the dip tube. Do you have a diagram of this area of my hot water heater showing this part along with the installation instructions should I need to replace this?

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Lee -
October 27, 2013
A:

The link below will direct you to a video that will show you how to diagnosis and replace the dip tube. Please let me know if there is anything else you need. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
October 27, 2013
A:

Thank you, AnneJ. Great video! From a symptoms perspective, I have never seen any sedament in my faucets. Also, I have been maintaining my water heater every six months with a flush. I have never seen any sedament during the draining. The video mentions that the dip tube was an issue during the mid 90s - my water heater was built in '99 so I suspect that my dip tube is fine. Might you have any other suggestions for problem resolution?

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Lee -
November 01, 2013
A:

Lee, I am very glad to see that you keep you hot water heater so well maintained. The only other part that I can think of that would cause this is the thermostat. The link below is a test at that you can preform that will help determine this. I would suggest you try this frist, then replace the part that is needed. Please let me know if there is anything else you need. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
November 03, 2013
A:

Thank you, AnneJ for sharing this technical bulletin. As I stated in the very beginning of this thread, I recently replaced my control valve-thermostat. Despite my dip tube being outside the date range for when problems were ocurring & the fact that I don't see any sediment in my faucets or during tank flushing, do you believe that my dip tube could still have any issues causing my problem?

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Lee -
November 05, 2013
A:

If it is cracked or damaged in any way, it will cause this. It will allow cold water to enter directly into the tank before it can warm up. I would suggest you remove it and look at it, just to be sure it is okay. Please let me know if there is anything else you need. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
November 05, 2013
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Q:

Installing a gas control valve on a hot water heater

A:

Thank you for your question. I understand your concern about installing a new gas valve. First, close the main gas valve to the water heater and also the water supply valve. Now, attach a water hose to the drain valve and open the valve. Make sure the hose has a good downward slope with no kinks. It will help to open the relief valve and one of the hot water faucets during this time. Draining the tank can be a very slow process and the valve should not be removed until the tank has been drained. When the tank is drained, close the relief valve and faucet. Now you can take the gas lines loose from the valve. When the lines are disconnected, use a pipe wrench to remove the valve. Be prepared because some water may leak out. When replacing the valve, use some Teflon tape on the threads to make a good seal. Now open the water valve and also one of the hot water faucets. When the tank is full and the water at the faucet is flowing properly, shut the faucet off. Reconnect the gas lines and purge the gas line to the valve before restarting the system. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, reply to this thread and I will be glad to assist you further. If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services.  

 

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
September 28, 2013
A:

Thank you, Scott for these step-by-step instructions. Based upon your instructions, I feel confident that I can tackle this project. I've found the valve but there are two other parts in the picture (added link) that I don't recognize. The center part is the valve from what I can see on the outside of my water heater but I don't know what the other two parts are with the copper tips. I have one more related troubleshooting question before I buy & install this valve but I'll wait to hear back from you on this install question before sending my other question.

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Lee -
September 28, 2013
A:

Lee, thank you for the link and I can understand your concern from the picture shown. It does appear confusing but the other 2 parts are actually just different views of the valve. I hope this helps you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
September 28, 2013
A:

Great, Scott. Thank you. I mentioned earlier that I would follow-up with my troubleshooting question so here goes in sort of a reverse way in order to help determine if I have a failing valve. Our water heater (bullt in '99 & that I routinely maintain by draining every 6 mo) has an intermiten issue & I was told by a trusting (but retired) handyman that my thermostat needed to be replaced in order to solve my water heater problem. When I researched for the thermostat I found out that it's really the gas control valve. Do you concur just from the standpoint of the part on this model? Or does a thermostat part exist for my model # that is maybe sitting inside my water heater? In order to obtain an independent opinion & help troubleshoot my issue, what problems would I be experiencing if my valve was showing signs of failure?

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Lee -
September 28, 2013
A:

Lee, the thermostat is built into the gas valve, so if the water heater is working intermittently, it could be a problem with the thermostat, which would require replacing the valve. A failed thermostat could cause the water to get too hot, it may not be hot enough or it may not heat the water at all. It could also heat the water sufficiently but you may run out of hot water before it cycles back on again. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, reply to this thread and I will be glad to assist you further.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
September 30, 2013
A:

Thank you, Scott! You hit the nail right square on the head! We are intermittently experiencing all of the symptoms that you decribe above. I'll let you know how my install goes & if our issues go away with the new value-thermostat.

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Lee -
September 30, 2013
A:

Lee, thank you for using Manage My Life.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
October 01, 2013
A:

Hi Scott. Replacing our thermostat-gas control valve fixed the problems that I outlined above. Thanks a bunch for your guidance on this one! I replaced the part several weeks ago but I was waiting a while to fully test our system. I'd now like to ask for your opinion on another aspect with our water heater that I didn't mention before since I thought that replacing the part might take care of this second issue as well. In a nutshell, three showers in a row has meant that the third shower will get not so hold water. One shower is a tub type shower with a typical knob that you turn & push back to increase the amount of water & temperature along with a diverter button to redirect the water from the faucet to the shower head. Our other shower is a typical single shower stall with a one turn knob to go from cold to hot. With two simultaneous showers the person in the single stall shower towards the end of their shower will get not so hot to warm water. The third person (in the single stall shower) will get warm to cold water. Any clues on what might be causing this not so hot water issue & how to fix it?

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Lee -
October 20, 2013
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