Model #125 PORTER CABLE Planer

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Question and Answers

Q:

Kenmore Intellisoft 370 flooded...is this the right part?

A:

The Kenmore animation for troubleshooting water softeners can be very helpful. The expert will review and respond in answer to the part, but I did locate a similar question that may have some additional information to help. I attached the link below.

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Barbara H. -
March 29, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question on the flooded salt tank on the water softener.

The usual cure is to clean the venturi. But the rotor in the head could also be a problem if the gasket and o-ring is bad. The impression on the venturi gasket is normal but it would not hurt to replace it. The venturi channel in the venturi is very small and any restriction will cause a problem with regenerating correctly.

The venturi as you have seen in the troubleshooting animation has to draw the brine water from the brine well.

Look at the chrome dial gear on the top of the rotor and motor and you should see a window and letter or letters on that chrome gear that will indicate

There should only be about 4 to 5 inches of water at the bottom of the brine well and it first will put water into the well and then draw the water out of the brine well. So it will depend on what part of the cycle you are in as to filling or sucking the brine water.

You will also need to remove the salt and the excess water from in the salt storage bin or the float on the brine valve will not operate correctly.

Please let me know what you have done and we can continue to troubleshoot and recommend some replacement parts.

There is also the water support line for the manufacture of the softener you could call and they will work with you and the softener while you are not the phone near the softener. 1-800-426-9345 option 2

I hope this will help you get the problem solved.

Sam A.

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Sam A -
Sears Technician
March 31, 2012
A:

Well i thought my problem was solved but apparently not. Here is what I do know: Model # 625393760 4 years old Thus far I've replaced the nozzle and venturi gasket (7114533). When I go through the animation of the regen cycle, it's the second (brining)step i'm seeing issues. Water continues to flow out of the brine valve assembly. If I follow the steps to disassemble the venturi unit, verify parts and reassemble. I get to the part where it says to open the bypass valve and then pull the tubing off the venturi housing and feel for suction. I feel suction for about 15 seconds and then it begins to squirt water out. Tonight I took the valve cover off, wiped down all the gaskets and internal surfaces and reassembled....still with no luck or improvement. Any ideas???

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Matt -
June 11, 2012
A:

I should also note that the gaskets looked find inside the valve assembly. The only thing that showed some slight wear was the plastic gasket on top of the rubber rotor seal. There was some very slight suffing on the narrow (.125" or less) webbings between the 4 pie shaped chambers.

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Matt -
June 11, 2012
A:

I recently vacuumed out all the water and salt and cleaned everything. I put brand new salt, ran the system and it worked great. In a few days the brine tank fully flooded and the water had a strange color on top almost like foamy and ugly. I wonder why this occurred. I tried the suction and it sucks in the correct phase, I tested it in a bucket of water. It seems to fill correctly I tested that in a water bucket too. But it's not removing the water. Also it is old. I want a new one. Is there an easy-peasy DIRECT replacement for this that won't require moving pipes?

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Christopher -
July 27, 2014
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Q:

Air compressor - 921.153101

A:

Thanks for the inquiry and for being a valued member.

I am sorry to hear of the issue you’re having with the compressor. I know how frustrating that is.

If the compressor is not regulating the set pressure of 60 PSI, it sounds like the pressure regulator needs replacement. The part number is E100059.

The cut-in pressure is 95 PSI, and the cut-out is 125 PSI. They are regulated by the pressure switch. I am not showing that the cut-in pressure on this pressure switch can be adjusted. The only way to adjust the cut-in pressure would be to replace that switch with one that is adjustable or that has a lower cut-in pressure rating. I am not aware this type of switch that will fit that model of compressor.

I hope this helps and thanks for using SearsPartsDirect.com. We appreciate your business. 

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Jeff Wallace Sr -
Sears Technician
March 25, 2015
A:

This is the way all compressors operate. The tank resevoiralways charges to the ~90-125 psi. this is your "store" of compressed air. The second regulator with the set gauge "doles" it out at the correct set pressure. If you set the motor to start and stop at 60 psi the usable regulated pressure would only be a fraction of that, as youneed a reserve to supply the regulated pressure evenly. The motor would also be turning off and on rapidly which could damage it. (if the regulated pressure and the motor set pressure were the same and you tried to use it that way).

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tony -
January 16, 2016
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Q:

How do I get my icemaker to work? There is no ice/water in the system anywhere.

A:

I see you are having problems with your Ice Maker not working properly, I can see how frustrating it may be. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question. I found the Manual for your Ice Maker. I attached the link below. Hope this helps!

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Dezeray S -
October 20, 2010
A:

Thank you for the attachment; however, that item did not help me; I have the user manual which you attached. That's what I used to do my earlier diagnostics. I am looking for the links to the actual repair manual and schematic websites which I can use to get additional diagnostic information and do some electrical troubleshooting. I would like to verify power is at the valve, I would like to see if a power bypass jumper actually activates the valve (that is, apply power direct to the valve). If it doesn't activate, the valve is dead and would need to be replaced. My suspicion is either the water in the line at the entry valve has frozen or the water inlet valve has failed. I'm not sure how I would check the water flow at the valve itself without making a mess.

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Space Station -
October 20, 2010
A:

I will provide you with detailed technical information and troubleshooting to help you diagnose and repair this problem. First, I recommend verifying that you have proper water flow through the water dispenser in the freezer door. If water flow is weak, I recommend that you pull the water filter out and see if the water pressure and flow through the door dispenser improves. The housing for the filter has an automatic bypass so that water will flow properly with the filter removed.

If water flow significantly increases with the filter pulled out, I recommend that you leave it out and see if the ice maker will begin producing ice within a few hours. You will need to replace the water filter if this tip helps. This basic troubleshooting should not be overlooked. You may have already checked this issue.

The next step in troubleshooting is to check the diagnostic test system on the level sensing control boards on the side walls of the freezer. The first image below shows how to check the diagnostics on the control boards. If the red LED light flashes twice and the pauses and repeats when you open the door then it is likely working okay. Press in the flapper on the left side so that the beam is unblocked. The red LED should turn solid. If it does then the control boards should be okay. If the control boards are apparently bad, then they will need to be replaced. Unplug the refrigerator to disconnect power before accessing internal components. The second image shows how to replace these control boards. You can order a kit that has both boards from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the kit is 4389102.

If the level sensing control boards are okay, I recommend that you unplug the refrigerator and pull the ice maker module out. The third image shows how to remove the ice maker module. Carefully remove it and check the water fill tube protruding down from the roof of the freezer to see if it is frozen. If it is, then defrosting this line may fix your ice maker problem.

If the water fill tube is not frozen, I recommend that you replace the ice maker and manually fill the ice mold with water using a turkey baster or squirt bottle. See if the ice maker will cycle and eject the ice. Also check to see if the ice maker fills back up with water if it does eject the ice. If the ice maker module will not eject the ice then the module (part 2198597) will need to be replaced.

If the ice maker ejects the frozen cubes but does not refill, then you will need to conduct an advanced technical test to check the water valve. You will need a small piece of insulated wire such as door bell wire to create a "jumper" as shown in the 4th image below. To provide power to the ice maker module to conduct this test, you will need to follow these steps:

  • Unplug the refrigerator and pull out the receiver control board as shown in that 4th image.

  • Carefully place the stripped ends of the jumper wire into the wire harness locations between the yellow wire and the black/white wire in the receiver board harness that is on the side wall of the freezer. This will provide power to the ice maker module when the door switch is in the "open" position. This voltage path is drawn on the partial wiring diagram shown in the 5th image.

Remove the ice maker module as shown in the second image (with the refrigerator still unplugged ). Pull the cover off of the ice maker module to access the test points as shown in the 6th image below. You will need a separate large jumper wire with the ends stripped far enough to reach the contacts inside the test points of the ice maker. Fourteen gauge wire is recommended for this jumper. Place the jumper wire between the L and V terminals to test the water valve (with the refrigerator still _unplugged). Make sure that the wire harness to the ice maker module is plugged in properly. Position the ice maker module to the side (out of the way) and place a cup or container under the fill tube to catch water during this test. Push in on the door switch to simulate the freezer door being closed. Have someone plug in the refrigerator while you hold the door switch in. Once the refrigerator is plugged in, briefly let go of the door switch to see if water flows from the inlet water tube. Unplug the refrigerator as soon as this brief test is completed. If water did flow during this test then the water valve is okay. The ice maker module will need to be replaced since it did not energize the water valve during the harvest cycle.

If the water did not flow during this test then you will need to check the resistance through the circuit. The 7th image below shows how to check resistance through the water valve. You should measure about 300 ohms of resistance through the test points V and N (with the refrigerator still unplugged ). If not, then I recommend that you check the resistance of the ice maker water valve solenoid directly at the valve. The water valve is on the back, bottom portion of the refrigerator behind the service panel. If the valve is bad, it will need to be replaced.

These are complicated technical checks. Be sure that you follow the directions carefully. If you are not completely confident that you can safely diagnose this fairly complicated system, I recommend that you have a service technician repair this failure. Here is a link for the Sears Service website in case you need it: Sears Home Services .

I hope that this is the technical information that you were expecting. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details and we will help you further.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 29, 2011
A:

Here are more images.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
October 21, 2010
A:

This is the final image.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
October 21, 2010
A:

Lyle, thanks for the great info. I would like to list the steps i have taken and hopefully you can direct me on what to do next. i installed a new ice maker module 2198597, still no ice. Then I went onto this website for help. The red led blinking light acted correctly with your checks. I remover the receiver control board and jumped the blk/whi wire with the yellow and the icemaker started moving. It seemed to go through all the cycles but still no ice. With the wires still jumped, I added water to the ice tray with a cup and got ice in my hopper a little while later. When I did the 14guage jumper test on the side of the ice maker I couldn�t get anything to happen (this may have been my fault, im not sure what state the door sw was in during this). Finally I unplugged power and did the resistance tests. I got L&H heater test 73.5 ohms, L&M motor test 5.12 ohms, V&N water valve 1.6 ohms. What�s next? Thanks for your help

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joey -
August 03, 2011
A:

Hello Joey. Your description points to a failure in that water valve or a frozen fill tube. Check that fill tube to see if it is frozen (or clogged). The resistance reading through that water valve circuit from the ice maker module should be around 300 ohms. I recommend that you recheck that resistance reading. You can unplug the refrigerator and carefully place that insulated jumper wire in the harness of the receiver board as described above. Place a 14 gauge insulated jumper wire in the L and V test points on that ice maker module. Make sure that the stripped ends of that 14 gauge jumper wire are long enough so that you are hitting those contacts in side the ice maker module test point holes. Place a cup or container under the fill tube and then push in the freezer door switch and see if you get any water from the fill tube above the ice maker. If the fill tube is clear and you get no water through the fill valve during this test, then the inlet water valve will need to be replaced. I hope that this additional information helps. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
August 03, 2011
A:

NOTE: You will need to plug the refrigerator back in after placing the jumper wires in the receiver board harness and ice maker module in the above procedure. I left that step out in the above response.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
August 03, 2011
A:

hey Lyle, i finally got back to the issue. im not really sure how to check for a frozen tube. i took a wire hanger and sent it into the fill hose hole trying to feel ice and it felt clear. the water in the door works fine. as far as the resistance im still getting 1.8 ohms. i know im hitting the contacts because of how my meter reacts, it shows OL untill it touches the terminals. i followed the steps for the fill tube test and got nothing. could it be my inlet water valve? is this a common failure? how is it replaced? thanks for your help.

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joey -
August 13, 2011
A:

Hello Joey. Based on your description and the resistance reading on fill valve circuit, you will need to replace that inlet water valve assembly. That is not a common failure but it does occur occasionally. You can order that part from Sears PartsDirect.com (see link below). UNPLUG the refrigerator and shut off the water supply. You can follow the basic steps that are shown in the images below to replace that water valve assembly.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
September 16, 2011
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