Model #1226 PEERLESS Faucet

  • Two Handle Washerless Lavatory Faucets
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Question and Answers

Q:

when I ordered my item it said I could pick it up at least by 12/20, now it's saying between 12/24 and 12/26. That is too late and I would like to cancel.

A:

Good morning.... I fully understand your dismay over those pick-up dates. I would suggest that you contact Sears.com and speak to an associate there to initiate the return processes. Sears.com has a chat line available and will be happy to assist you. Have a pleasant day.

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Henry -
December 20, 2012
A:

Thanks for contacting ManageMyLife.com. I'm sorry for any frustration with your order. For further detail please contact Sears.com by click here and choosing either the chat or talk option on the left hand side of the page. Please feel free to let me know if you need further assistance. Thank you for using ManageMyLife.com.

Please feel free to let me know if you need further assistance.

Thank you for using ManageMyLife.com.

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Jonathan B -
Sears Technician
December 20, 2012
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Q:

Kenmore dryer (Model # 4178304220) not heating, drum/motor spins.

A:

Sorry, forgot a last digit on the Kenmore Dryer - correct model # 41783042201

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JJOHD -
September 11, 2010
A:

Checked the Thermal Limiter (disconnected from circuit) and that one is also 0 Ohm

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JJOHD -
September 11, 2010
A:

You did not mention anything about the voltage supply. First, the dryer must have 220-230 volts supplied to the dryer or it will run but it will not heat. If one of the two house breakers (L2) dedicated for the dryer has tripped, it will run but will not heat. The voltage supply must be checked and confirmed where the power cord attaches to the dryer. It must measure 220-230 volts when measuring across the two outside terminals. Note: I do not recommend checking voltage unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so, otherwise I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your dryer.

I added an image of the wiring diagram below to refer to. I traced out the heater circuit. The heating element must have L1 and L2 voltage in order to heat. Note: The moisture sensor board will not prevent your dryer from heating.

Based on your details the failure is likely either the timer (contact A and B) or the motor centrifugal switch (M1 and M2) is not closing once the motor is running. There could also be a burnt wire connection at timer terminal A causing the lack of L1 voltage to the heater.

It sounds like timer contact A and B is not closing in order to provide line one voltage to the heating element or the motor centrifugal switch is not closing. Testing the motor switch is not something I recommend trying. In order for the heating element to heat it must have 220-230 volts applied to it while it's running. NOTE: I do not recommend checking voltage unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so, otherwise I recommend call a service technician to diagnose and repair your dryer.

Another way of finding the failed component is to place the voltage meter leads across the two terminals of each component while it's running. Which ever component you test across while running measures 220-230 volts would indicate that component is open and will need to be replaced.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
September 13, 2010
A:

Hello Joey S, Thank you for your reply. Sorry for my late reply but due to work obligations, I can only debug this issue over the weekend. I have a 3 port 240V socket. Now, when I measure the voltage from the socket I get 123.5V from one "hot" leg to the common and 123.5V from the other "hot" leg to the common. If I measure bewteen the 2 "hot" legs I measure nearly to 0V (0.009V). My presuption is that when you measure the voltage between 2 "hot" wires they subtract each other thus the reason for measuring 0. I am using a digital voltmeter (set-to AC), and Red Wire going to V-port of DMM and black wire going to COM port of DMM. When I plug the dryer cord by not start the dryer, I measure the following (in all of these I have the Fabric Selectro Switch - Temperature to Regular (High Heat), The Option Switch (Cycle Signal to OFF), All of the voltages are between the port (wire) and N (GND). I will break my reply into several 1000 character long ones.

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JJOHD -
September 18, 2010
A:

at L1 (to N - Common- GND) I measure 123.4V. This is also same as B port of the Timer. at L2 to N I measure 123.4V. This is also same as M2 port of Motor Centrifugal Switch. Between L1 and L2 I measure the same as in the socket 0V (0.009V). at M1 (which also goes to port 4 of the Fabric Selector Switch) I measure 16.8V at A port I measure 17V From the above it is clear the the dryer is off (I presume that the 17V is some sort of leakage). Now when I turn the dryer ON (DRYER RUNNING but NOT HEATING) at timed dry (About 60 min setting), also in this case Fabric Selectro Switch - Temperature to Regular (High Heat), The Option Switch (Cycle Signal to OFF), I measure the following. at L1 (to N - Common- GND) I measure 123.0V. This is also same as B port of the Timer. at L2 to N I measure 122.9V. This is also same as M2 port of Motor Centrifugal Switch. Across L1 and L2 I measure the same 0.199V. This is definitely different from when the dryer is not running.

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JJOHD -
September 18, 2010
A:

at M1 (which also goes to port 4 of the Fabric Selector Switch) I measure 123.1V at Port 5 of the Fabric Selector Switch I measure 122.9V at A port of Timer I measure 122.8V. at the Orange/Black wire of the High Limit Thermostat I measure 122.9V at the Black wire of the High Limit Thermostat I measure 122.6V at the White wire of the Thermal Limiter (going to M4 of the Motor), I measure 122.8V at the White wire of the Thermal Limiter I measure 122.8V across the Thermal Limiter I measure 0.031V across the High Limit Thermostat I measure 0.007V across the heater element I measure 0.267V across A and B of Timer I measure 0.005V across the Control Thermostat (Orange/Black wire side) and Orange (Port A of Timer) I measure 0.007V across the Control Thermostat (Orange/Black wire side) and Blue (port5 of Fabric Selector) I measure 0.046V across ports 4 and 5 of Fabric Slector (Yellow wire and Blue wire), I measure 0.227V Please advise on next steps. Thank you in advance.

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JJOHD -
September 18, 2010
A:

Based on your details you have a voltage suppy problem. You should measure 247 volts when measuring across line one (L1) and line 2 (L2) and not 0.009 volts. You would add 123.5 volts to 123.5 volts which should be 247 volts. See instructions in the image below.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
September 20, 2010
A:

Hi Joey, Excellent support. My dual circuit breaker (for the dryer) was plugged with both leads into the one phase. Once I plugged it in the correct slot (one branch to one phase the other branch to the other phase), I got the 240V. At least I got a good exercise for fixing a dryer in the future. This also gave me a chance to clean it since it was completely filled with lint as well. For the future, in case one day something inside does break I can debug and fix it without any problems. Your support in this debug session was excellent. Thanks again. BR, JJ

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JJOHD -
September 25, 2010
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Q:

kenmore top load washer #11028522700, blows breaker at the a/c panel, everything looks good , we only used it about six months, checked the a/c breaker 122.6 vo

A:

If the washer is only 6 months old you will need to call for warranty service. When the washer is stopped the brakes are set; the tub will not move freely. If the washer is out of warranty please get back with us on this.

Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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biker dave -
Sears Technician
May 06, 2010
A:

the washer is 18 months old and is out of warranty, how do you unlock the breaks, the tub will not turn.

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rosebud654 -
May 09, 2010
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