Model #12 AMANA Upright Freezer

  • Model 12
    3 Results
  • Models 12a, 12a1, 12a2
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  • Models 12b
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  • Model 18
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  • Model 18a
    3 Results
  • Model 18b, 18b1, 18b2
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  • Model 18c
    3 Results
  • Models 12e, 12f, 12g, 12h, 15, 15a, 15b, 19, 19a, 19b
    3 Results
  • Door Assembly - Models 12e, 12f, 12g, 15, 19
    3 Results
  • Door Assembly - Models 12h, 15a, 15b, 19a, 19b
    3 Results
  • Shelf, Ice Cream Unit, Condensing Unit
    3 Results
  • Cabinet And Refrigeration
    3 Results
  • Door Assembly
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

Why do I get a F10 error code on a Kenmore Elite stove?

A:

The F10 indicates that the electronic oven control board senses a runaway temperature condition in the oven through the oven sensor circuit. Oven temperature is detected by the control board as it monitors the resistance through the oven temperature sensor circuit. You could have a failed oven temperature sensor, a wiring harness failure, an open thermal switch or a failed electronic oven control board that would cause this problem. The first component to check would normally be the oven temperature sensor probe. If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can shut off the breaker for the range and remove the screws that mount this sensor to the back wall of the oven. Carefully pull the wire harness into the oven cavity until you get to the wire harness disconnect plug. You should have enough slack to pull it this far into the oven. Disconnect the sensor but do not let the wire harness retract back through the back wall of the oven or it will be hard to reconnect. Measure the resistance of the oven temperature sensor with your volt/ohm meter. At room temperature, the resistance should measure around 1100 ohms. The resistance chart is shown in the image below.

If the resistance is above 2200 ohms at room temperature, then the sensor probe is causing the F10 error code and will need to be replaced.

You can order a new sensor probe from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the sensor is 316217002.

If the resistance is normal, then one of the other causes mentioned above is producing your F10 code. You would need to access the electronic oven control board in the console and check the resistance at the sensor circuit connection to the control board as the next step in troubleshooting this problem if sensor resistance is normal. If you need more help with this problem, resubmit your question with additional details.

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Korinna S -
Sears Technician
April 27, 2010
A:

Hello, I just followed the instructions mentioned above and found the resistance at the probe to be within the acceptable range at room temperature (1075 ohm). I then tested the leads from the wiring harness which connect into the EOC and found the same resistance values. At this time, I have had the oven cut from power for over 12 hours, so I reconnected all wiring and powered on the oven to see if I still get the "F10" error. I do. So, at this stage, is it safe to assume the EOC is faulty and I should try replacing it? Is there anything on the EOC itself I can test to confirm that it is faulty before I spend $ on buying the replacement part? Thank you!

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RYAN -
February 02, 2016
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Q:

Garage door opener will not open or close 13953603 Craftsman Sears electronic garage door opener

A:

Searspartsdirect.com is always a great resource to find the answers to your parts questions. Your Sears partsdirect expert will research your question and respond within two business days but usually sooner. Thank you for using Searspartsdirect.com!

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Yadira B -
July 24, 2013
A:

Thank you for using ManageMyLife.com. I know how frustrating it is to have a garage door opener not functioning correctly, hopefully I can help.

Due to safety regulations I can not instruct you how to bypass the sensors. Even though you are the one bypassing them, Sears and I can be held liable for any injury or damage caused from bypassing them. It is a problem that the safety sensors are out of alignment, but being out of alignment, the door should still want to move slightly up or down and then reverse.

You should be able to override the sensor circuit temporarily by holding the wall control button continuously until the door reaches the closed position. The remotes will not override the sensors since it is not certain someone would be in clear sight of the door to confirm it is safe to close at that time. The override should only be used for emergency situations however, and we would recommend that you do not use a garage door opener without working safety sensors. However, if you have no operation at all from wall control or remotes, it could be something else.

I'm curious to know whether you hear the motor trying to work inside the unit when you hit the wall control or the remotes. The wall controls are typically hard wired, and if yours is, we can rule out the logic board. It almost sounds as if we have an issue with the nylon gears inside the unit or with the motor itself. If you do hear the motor within the unit, that's a good sign it is a gear issue rather than a motor issue, but if the motor is not working, it could be seized.

Disconnect the power to the opener and remove the outer cover. Inspect the nylon gears for wear. Restore the power and start the opener. If the gears are turning but not moving the trolley, the gears need to be replaced.

If you have any further questions or inquiries, please don't hesitate to ask. Thank you for using ManageMyLife.com.

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Desirea -
Sears Technician
July 24, 2013
A:

Thanks for getting back to me. This is somehow referencing a different garage door opener. I have a model #13953975SRT1. I checked to hear if the motor was running when the wall controls were hit - no noise at all. I rechecked the sensors - yes on the sending, no on the receiving be unseized?

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G -
July 26, 2013
A:

G, by pressing and holding the wall button you will over ride the sensors and the door should close then just pressing and releasing the wall button should open the door the sensors are only for closing the door not opening it. if you hit the wall button and release it the main lights should flash 10 times letting you know it is a sensor issue. if the door won't close holding the wall button in and all you get is a click from the opener it would most likely be the logic board. there is a small led light by the learn button it is a diagnostic light and should be flashing a code from 1 - 6 flashes then pause and repeat over and over see it you have a flash code. and post back with the code or if the door will close holding the wall button in or not. you can also try a reset by unplugging the opener for 30 min. then plug it back in and try it again and look for the flash code.

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TC -
July 26, 2013
A:

No response from wall button. Light seems to be flashing 6 times.

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G -
July 26, 2013
A:

6 flash code is the logic board.

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TC -
July 26, 2013
A:

Figures - couldn't be something simple. Thanks for the response, TC.

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G -
July 26, 2013
A:

I have the same model # mine blinks 5 times. No noise, the lights come On when i push wall button but not remotes. We had a lightning storm last night came home door went up but wouldn't go back down.

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Greg -
September 03, 2013
A:

Hi Greg, based on the information you have provided I would recommend checking the safety sensors. Both sensors are supposed to show a green light on them, if you see any other color. Try to re align the sensors, if your not able to get them back to green then they will need to be replaced.

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Desirea -
Sears Technician
September 06, 2013
A:

I have a model#139.53975srt1 garage door opener. when the door opens completely the light shuts off and the door won't close with either the remote or wall control until you tap the side of the unit and the light comes on then press the remote or wall switch. what could cause this?

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Kenneth -
November 21, 2013
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Q:

Anode rod for model 153.331472

A:

Thank you for your question. I'm sorry you are having this odor in the water and I can understand your concern. The anode rods currently in the water heater are made with magnesium. The less active anode rod to correct this problem, which is made with aluminum, is # 9001453. It's not essential but I would recommend replacing both anode rods (same rod). I also recommend chlorinating the tank. Here is the procedure to chlorinate the tank: Be sure the water supply valve has been closed and set the thermostat to pilot only. After removing the existing anode rod (rods), household bleach must be added to the water heater tank at a ratio of one (1) cup for every (5) gallons of water heater capacity. Bleach may be poured directly into the anode opening or through any other water fitting on top of the tank. Install the new less active anode rod (rods) and refill the tank completely. Turn on each hot water tap slowly and allow the water to flow until the chlorine can be detected. Turn off the hot water taps and let the water stand in the hot water distribution piping for no less than 2 hours (Preferably 8-12 hours). Flush the complete hot water distribution system through each hot water tap after the chlorination treatment. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, reply to this thread and I will be glad to assist you further.

 
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Scott D -
Sears Technician
November 21, 2013
A:

Would this part and procedure also apply to model 153.331572 I just realized I have the 50 gallon model.

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Anonymous -
November 21, 2013
A:

Yes, the anode rod part and the procedure will be the same. If you would like more assistance, I will be glad to assist you further.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
November 22, 2013
A:

Would part number 9001453 also apply to the second anode which is part number 9003934 only reason I ask is it looks like at the top there isnt a hex head which appears different.

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Ryan -
March 10, 2014
A:

I purchased a new anode rod for my 5 year old water heater, when I removed the old one, it was twice as long as the new one. There was no wear on the old rod so I put it back in. The OEM rod is 33" and the new one I ordered from Sears is 17". I can email you photos.

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bruce -
January 29, 2016
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