Model #11096580120 KENMORE Residential Dryer

  • Top And Console Parts
    3 Results
  • Cabinet
    3 Results
  • Bulkhead
    3 Results
Find part by diagram >

Error Codes

Error Code:

Condition:

Check/Repair:

Question and Answers

Q:

Dryer does not heat or time off 110.96580120

A:

It can be a real headache when your dryer fails to operate and heat properly. I did some research and provided a link to a similar question and answer on our site. I hope this will shed a little more light on the issue until the Expert responds to your question in more detail within 24 to 48 hours.

Read More
Julio -
February 11, 2013
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern. 

If the dryer will not heat, the timer is not going to advance in any of the "Auto" dry cycles; however the timer should advance with or without the dryer heating in the "Time" dry cycle. 

If the timer is not advancing in the "Time" dry, I suspect for starters the timer is faulty. 

The dryer should not start without pushing the "Start" button unless the push to start switch is stuck or shorted closed or if the motor centrifugal switch contacts 5M and 6M are stuck or welded shut.  

If the dryer is getting the proper voltage supply of 220 volts, and the heating element is not broken, there are several other components in the heating circuit which can fail and break the line one (L1) voltage supply to one lead of the heating element. If the motor centrifugal switch contacts 2M and 1M are not closing, it will not complete the line 2 (L2) voltage supply to the other lead of the heating element. The heating element must have 220 volts (L1 and L2 voltages) or it will not heat. 

Based on your symptom and details, it could have more than one faulty component and I strongly suggest calling a service technician to diagnose which components are faulty and to repair your dryer. 

I added an image below of the wiring diagram to reference. I traced the heating circuit and the timer circuit for "Time" dry.  The first thing that should be measured and verified is the voltage supply. The voltage should be measured across the two outer terminals on the terminal block. The power cord is attached to the terminal block at the back of the dryer. The voltage must measure 220-230 volts when measuring across the two outer terminals. Note: I do not recommend measuring voltage unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so; otherwise I strongly suggest calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your dryer. 

If the dryer is getting the proper voltage supply of 220-230 volts, disconnect the power cord and remove the rear panel. Each one of the components connected in series with the heating element will need to be disconnected and tested for continuity with an Ohm meter. You may find a blown "thermal cut off".  The motor centrifugal contacts 5M and 6M will also need to be tested for continuity to see if these two contacts are welded/shorted together. Contacts 5M and 6M should only close once the motor is running. If it measures continuity, the motor centrifugal switch is faulty and the motor assembly will have to be replaced. Be sure to disconnect the wires from terminal 5M and 6M before testing across the male terminals for continuity.

 Check the things I have covered here and if I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.

The dryer should not start without pushing the "Start" button unless the push to start switch is stuck or shorted closed or if the motor centrifugal switch contacts 5M and 6M are stuck or welded shut.  

If the dryer is getting the proper voltage supply of 220 volts, and the heating element is not broken, there are several other components in the heating circuit which can fail and break the line one (L1) voltage supply to one lead of the heating element. If the motor centrifugal switch contacts 2M and 1M are not closing, it will not complete the line 2 (L2) voltage supply to the other lead of the heating element. The heating element must have 220 volts (L1 and L2 voltages) or it will not heat. 

Based on your symptom and details, it could have more than one faulty component and I strongly suggest calling a service technician to diagnose which components are faulty and to repair your dryer. 

I added an image below of the wiring diagram to reference. I traced the heating circuit and the timer circuit for "Time" dry.  The first thing that should be measured and verified is the voltage supply. The voltage should be measured across the two outer terminals on the terminal block. The power cord is attached to the terminal block at the back of the dryer. The voltage must measure 220-230 volts when measuring across the two outer terminals. Note: I do not recommend measuring voltage unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so; otherwise I strongly suggest calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your dryer. 

If the dryer is getting the proper voltage supply of 220-230 volts, disconnect the power cord and remove the rear panel. Each one of the components connected in series with the heating element will need to be disconnected and tested for continuity with an Ohm meter. You may find a blown "thermal cut off".  The motor centrifugal contacts 5M and 6M will also need to be tested for continuity. Be sure to disconnect the wires from terminals 5M and 6M before checking for continuity with the Ohm meter.

Check the things I covered here and if I may be of further assistance as more details become available, reply in this post. 

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
February 12, 2013
See more answers
Q:

Sears Kenmore Heavy Duty 80 Series dryer heats but drum won't turn?

A:

I understand that your dryer is heating but not turning. While you are waiting for an expert to respond, I have attached some helpful links below that may provide information to assist you with your question. Have a great day!

Read More
Alina F. -
May 15, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

If it's heating and the motor is running, the belt has likely come off or has broken.

If the motor is not running and the heating element is working, the motor is likely faulty.

I added a YouTube video showing how access and replace the drum belt. NOTE: Disconnect the power cord from the power source before servicing.

I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.

Read More
Joey S -
Sears Technician
May 17, 2012
See more answers
Q:

How to lubricate the drum "bearings"on a Kenmore 110.96580120 dryer

A:

Hi there Hunter, I always check my manual for information related to my model. I looked for your manual and did not find. I see others asked similar questions. I have attached the expert posts below. Hope this helps!

Read More
Barbara H. -
June 25, 2010
A:

There is no drum bearing on this dryer. This model uses rollers (# 21 in picture) mounted under the drum. I suspect the dryer may be making a noise. If so, one or both of the rollers may need to be replaced or the idler pulley next to the motor can also be making a noise. For more information, additional details will be needed. If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

Read More
Scott D -
Sears Technician
June 28, 2010
A:

The rollers only support the back of the drum. No. 54 appears to be the front "bearing". How and with what do I lubricate it? No, the dryer is not making a noise, it's just hard to turn the drum. Thank you Hunter

Read More
Hunter3141 -
July 01, 2010
A:

Hunter... * rate this answer * rate this answer * rate this answer * rate this answer * rate this answer (0 ratings) The rollers only support the back of the drum. No. 54 appears to be the front "bearing". How and with what do I lubricate it? No, the dryer is not making a noise, it's just hard to turn the drum. Thank you Hunter

Read More
Hunter3141 -
July 01, 2010
See more answers

Top Parts