Model #11096512210 KENMORE Residential Dryer

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Question and Answers

Q:

Dryer runs intermittantly 11096512210 Kenmore Electric dryer

A:

Hello glad to help.  Thank You for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com
 
I am sorry and do understand your frustration when there is trouble with the dryer.
 
Glad to help out.   Im  looking at your Kenmore model number 110.96512210.

In helping with your dryer.  The first thing to let everyone know is that they must first check there lint screen.  Pull it out and make sure the vent the screen goes into is not plugged.   Next check the vent area where it goes outside the house.   A dryer has to have a free movement of air to prevent heating problems and fire hazzards.

There would be two things to look at.   If you have a meter to test  your thermal fuse on the back of the dryer, on the back side of the blower.  Next to it is a thermostat so check both of them with a meter.   Take a look at them.  Hope it is because after that is the timer switch to look at and it is no longer available to get for this model.

Thermal fuse per model 110.96512210

Thermostat per model 110.96512210

If you have further questions please let me know.
Thanks for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com

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Larry L -
Sears Technician
January 13, 2014
Q:

Why is the element on my dryer only getting 110 volts but the dryer is getting 220 volts?

A:

The element only gets 110 volts but the dryer does have 220 volts to it.

You say the dryer has 220 volts but you don't mention how you checked the voltage or what each leg of voltage reads individually.

Just to make sure we start on the same page with the dryer running check voltage at the terminal block from the black wire to the white wire and from the red wire to the white wire. You should read 120 volts on each and then check from black to red and make sure you read 240 volts with the dryer running under a load. See the 1st image to help with this.

If this voltage is correct with the dryer running and the element is only getting 110 volts then we'll have to figure out which leg is missing.

Since you have a meter and are comfortable using it the next check should be with the timer turned on but the dryer not running. With extreme caution at the element on the red/white wire check if there is any voltage to neutral or ground.

If there is no voltage the make the same check on the hi-limit, operating thermostat and thermal cut-off, see the 2nd image below, backtracking to the timer. If on one part you find 110 volts on one terminal but not the other you have found your problem. If there is no voltage anywhere then the timer is most likely the cause.

If the red/white wire on the element has 110 volts and the terminal block has the correct voltage from the first test then this problem can be caused by the motor switch.

The 220 volts to the element comes from two directions. From the timer and through the thermostats is 110 volts and from the motor switch is 110 volts.

With the dryer unplugged check the connection on the motor switch of the two red wires. Be sure the dryer is unplugged because one red wire on the motor switch has voltage as long as the dryer is plugged in.

I hope this information helps you resolve this problem but you can submit another question for additional assistance with this problem.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
July 26, 2009
A:

Like the pro, I'm not sure of how you are checking voltages. Voltages 220/240 are supplied by two breakers at the house breaker box. The two should be strapped together, so if one snaps off, the other will follow. If they are not strapped together, it is possible for one to snap off and not the other, leaving a 110 Volt supply. This can be hard to spot because the dryer still "has power" -panel/drum lights will still come on, the drum will still turn, but heating will be inadequate. Note that many breakers will stop halfway when they snap off, and have to be turned fully off before being turned back on.

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LookOver1 -
July 26, 2009
See more answers
Q:

Why does my electric dryer run but not heat?

A:

Yes if you are comfortable and confident with your do-it-yourself skills then there are some thermostats that you can "jump" to check.

The images below contain a wiring diagram and please remember to unplug the dryer before accessing or changing any parts.

With a volt/ohm meter each of the thermostats and the element can be checked for continuity.

There are 3 thermostats that can prevent the dryer from heating. If you have no access to a meter the other way they can be checked is by pulling both wires off the thermostat and joining them together. You join them together and use electrical tape to wrap them and then very carefully plug the dryer back in and run it and if it heats then that thermostat was the problem. You can do each thermostat one by one.

If all the thermostats are jumped and the dryer still does not heat then the timer or the element is the likely cause. You can't jump the timer or the element but with a meter they can be checked for continuity and voltage.

The thermostats are all access from the rear of the dryer by removing the rear panel. The operating thermostat is part key number 8 in the image below.

The high limit thermostat is part key number 15 and the thermal cut-off is part key number 21 in the image below.

All the parts can be ordered from the following link: Sears PartsDirect .

I hope this information helps to resolve your problem with the dryer. If you have any additional questions then submit another question with additional details for further assistance.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
March 26, 2009

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