Model #11095866400 KENMORE ELITE Residential Dryer

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Question and Answers

Q:

Sears model 110.95866400 moisture sensor error 09 question. Clothes not dry

A:

Thank you for being Sears’ valued member and for contacting SearsPartsDirect.com with your question about your Kenmore dryer model 110.95866400. I am so sorry the dryer is leaving the clothes damp. I will be happy to help you with this.

Code 09 is not an error code for your dryer. A code after testing the sensor is normally a software revision number. Your question did not indicate if you heard a beep when you conducted this test. I have included the images below that have the moisture sensor testing procedures.

If the moisture sensor is fine, then there may be a build-up of lint in the dryer that is restricting air flow. A dryer must have both heat and air flow to dry clothes. If the air vent is blocked, the clothes will get hot but will not dry.  

I hope this answers your question. Thank you for choosing Sears, we appreciate your business.

 

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Rachel Morgan -
Sears Technician
October 15, 2014
A:
Rachel Morgan -
Sears Technician
October 15, 2014
A:
Rachel Morgan -
Sears Technician
October 15, 2014
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Q:

my kenmore gas dryer 110.95866400 will not start

A:

I understand that your Kenmore gas dryer will not start. I have taken some time to research your question here on the Manage My Life website and I was able to locate a similar question to yours. I attached the link below for you to view while you are waiting on your response from an expert. I hope the link that I provided gets you one step closer to repairing your dryer. Have a great day.

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Alina F. -
July 22, 2011
A:

thanks for your response and efforts. I need an expert on this. I though I was pretty qualified to do this repair, but I am stumped.

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RICK -
July 22, 2011
A:

Hi Rick,

Thank you for submitting a question to Manage My Life.

I am sorry you are having problems with your dryer. Since you have demonstrated that you are comfortable using a meter, the next checks are as follows. Working with live electrical current can be very hazardous and possibly deadly. Do not attempt these measurements without the proper tools and safeguards. If you are not already sure you can perform these checks safely and competently, refer this work to a qualified professional. Check P1 5 (black) to P1 3 (dark blue) after start is pressed. Check P1 4 (light blue) to P1 3 (dark blue) after start is pressed. You should read 120 VAC on both. If you have voltage on both checks the belt switch, wiring, or motor are bad. The dark blue wire is neutral though the door switch. The thermistor should read 10k at room temperature. The thermal fuse is in the heat circuit on a gas dryer.

I am including the wire diagram in an image below.

Please perform the diagnostic tests detailed here and report back with your findings. I am looking forward to assisting you again in the near future.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

Here is a link that you may use to view the parts list diagram and for parts purchases; Sears Parts Direct .

Thanks again for using Manage My Life.

Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
July 23, 2011
A:

Landell! Thanks! I am going to perform these tests as I do feel comfortable doing so. This is great info. The trouble shooting guide only refers to low voltage stuff checking resistance. While I'm asking the Expert ;) ... I have checked the belt switch (which checked fine), and i did see a fewwires that look like they may have been heated a bit, but nothing looks like a broken connection. Can a thermistor stop a dryer from actually starting? Im leaning towards a motor but ohms check was about 2+ on both points. I have disassembled every bit of this machine the last 5 days. It is clean as a whistle! ;)

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RICK -
July 23, 2011
A:

Landell, Also, when I hit start, I get a loud click from the relay pon the control board. The sound it makes when something is shorted and keeps tripping relay? I would imagine its the start relay clicking and I would think if heater relay was bad it just wouldnt heat up but still run. Sorry for my rambling. I want to complete this repair without making that call! power cord good every switch checks out thermal fuse has continuity thermistor seemed in range on meter belt switch fine start winding & run seemed in range on meter control board i believe is good all swicthes check out on diagnostic test and individually metering them out for cont.

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RICK -
July 23, 2011
A:

Hi Rick, I still need those voltage checks and the ohm reading for the thermistor. If you will give me those I will be happy to help you in any way I can. Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
July 25, 2011
A:

yes, p1-5 and p1-3 had 120v before and after start was jit. p1-3 and p1-4 had 120v after start was hit. I also put motor on bench and hooked up to a/c cord. It did not run!

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RICK -
July 25, 2011
A:

I took the readings on the windings today. I had measurements of 1.9 - 2.0 on both. no more than 2.1 on either with fluctuation on digital meter.

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RICK -
July 25, 2011
A:

sorry....thermistor was 10.5

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RICK -
July 25, 2011
A:

Hi Rick, The voltage readings you gave me indicate that the control is getting voltage and sending voltage to the motor. Then your motor windings are low. But ultimately, when you hook the motor up with an AC cord that pretty much nailed it, I recommend replacing the motor. The thermistor is within range. Make sure the belt switch is good. Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
July 26, 2011
A:

Hello Landell, I put new motor in and unit ran fine....until flashing E-1 came up. Thermistor checked 10.5 at room temp. Could it be bad regardless of the reading?

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RICK -
July 27, 2011
A:

Hello Rick: The E1 indicates an open thermistor or open thermistor circuit. It may have a broken wire or a loose or bad connection at the control board. I recommend leaving the wires connected at the thermistor and remove the P2 connector from the control board and re-measure the resistance across pins 5 and 6; the red/white wire and the black wire and see if you get the same 10.5 ohms. If it reads open; check for a broken wire in the thermistor circuit. If the thermistor measures 10.5 at P2 and the E1 fault code continues to display then I must assume it has a faulty control board. I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
July 29, 2011
A:

Hi Landell! My Dryer quit again! Again, I dont know why it won't run. Last time we determined motor was bad. That is not the issue this time. I know this thing like the back of my hand but can't figure it out again. I have tested every component.....thermal fuse good, thermistor good, thermostat good, gas valve good, motor good (runs on bench), belt switch good, door switch good, tried extra control board i had from last repair (didnt help) so I guess control electronics are good. All buttons function and light up on control panel. I AM LOST! ;) Any tests to try? Tricks up the old sleeve? I feel I know thi8s machine like the back of my hand! Every component, Every screw! Thanks Rick

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RICK -
November 03, 2011
A:

Rick: After pressing start; what is the voltage measurment across P1-4 and P1-2 and across P1-4 and P1-3 ? If 120 vac is present and the motor is not running then it must a be break in the circuit between the control board and motor. If voltage is not present then I must assume it's a faulty control board.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
November 04, 2011
A:

Lindell, Same problem, HE4gas dryer model number 11095872400, SN MR410286. 120volts P1 5 to P1 3. 0 volts P1 4 to P1 3. 0 ohms on thermistor. When I ran door switch diagnostics, display read 59 with door open. Diagnostics instructions said it should be a number and a letter. Chris

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cufand360 -
July 01, 2013
A:

cufand360: If the voltage measurement does not measure 115-120 volts when measuring across the wires at P1-5 and P1-3 with the door shut, I suspect the door switch is faulty. Measure across P1-5 and P1-2 to confirm the line voltage of 115-120 volts. If the voltage measures 115-120 volts across P1-5 and P1-2, disconnect the lid switch harness and check for continuity across the blue and white wires. If does not measure continuity with the door shut, replace the door switch. NOTE: Disconnect the power cord from the power source before disconnecting the lid switch harness connector and checking for continuity. If you hear the faint click of the relay closing when start is pushed, the door switch is okay and the failure is likely the control board.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
July 02, 2013
A:

Joey, I mentioned in my previous note that I did have 120v across P1-5 and P1-3. The door switch is good. On top of that, I did confirm continuity between white and blue wires of the door switch when the door is closed. Long and short, I pulled the control board out last night and found the back-side burnt/chared in the vicinity of the motor relay. The relay is clicking but is not sending 120V to the motor. I jumped P1-5 to P1-4 and the motor functioned. The control board motor relay is bad. The relay costs $2.88 online, Sears wants $200 for a new board. Think I will replace the relay.

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cufand360 -
July 02, 2013
A:

cufand360: I'm glad you found the problem and I would replace the control board rather than attempting to replace the relay.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
July 02, 2013
A:

I know this is over a year old but I found the exact same thing. The soder connection on the board that feeds to P-4 at the relay is burnt and looks like it has no soder on that connection any longer. I am going to replace the board but I want to know if cufand360 was successful in replacing the relay.

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mandbkoch -
August 07, 2014
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Q:

dryer wont heat 110.95866400

A:

Thank you for choosing Sears Parts Direct. I can certainly understand how frustrating it can be when your dryer will not heat. I did look into the model number you have provided and I have found two parts that can cause the issue. The parts are the gas valve coils and the igniter itself. I recommend checking the igniter to see if it is lighting and glowing. If not then it will need to be changed. If your igniter is good then the next part would be the coils because they control the gas to open to the igniter. Click here to view more on a dryer not heating. 

 
You can also visit searpartsdirect.com for parts, diagrams, and repair information.
 
 
If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

Thank you for your question. Have a great day. 

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Natasha12 -
Sears Technician
April 30, 2014

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