Model #11087274100 KENMORE Residential Dryer

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Q:

Dryer will not heat 11087274100 Kenmore Gas dryer

A:

Does the "We Couldn't Find any answers for this question" mean that none of the experts are being consulted?

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Larry -
September 03, 2013
A:

Hello glad to help.  Thank You for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com
 
I am sorry and do understand your frustration when having trouble with the dryer not heating.

Glad to help out.   Im  looking at your model number 110.7274100.
 
Make sure you are checking your lint screen area and make sure  you do the same with the vents going out of the house.  The dryers need the air space to circulate so the dryer can heat.   We do have very special brushes to swipe down the lint areas quick and easy if you would like to get one while they are on sale.
 
The first thing to look at since it is heating  a little and the ignitor flowing.  On the right hand side of the dryer to the lower end you see the blower and beside that is a burner funnel.   Screwed into that funnel is an item they call the Radiant Sensor.   It most likely that sensor or the coils off the burner.
 
On the radiant sensor, disconnect the 2 wires and remove them from the sensor.  Use your multimeter and know you need to replace it if you have no continuity between the two wires.   
 
below is a link of the radiant sensor and the coils which come in a pair.
 
 
 

If you have further questions please let me know.
Thanks for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com

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Larry L -
Sears Technician
September 04, 2013
A:

Early the gas would periodically come on and heat, but now it doesn't. The ignitor is coming on but no gas flame occurs. The coils on the gas feed have been changed with no effect. Is the Radiant Sensor accessible from the front or back of the dryer? When you say right hand side of the dryer, is that from the front or the back of the dryer? The Radiant Sensor kind of makes sense since the problem was initially intermittent.

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Larry -
September 04, 2013
A:

I believe I located the Radiant Sensor. Based on the parts diagram it is mounted on the cylinder or funnel that contains the ignitor and the gas burner. It is directly in line with the ignitor. I removed the two wires from the sensor. I checked the continuity on the wires and it shows 0 ohms. I checked the continuity across the terminals on the sensor and it is 0 ohms so these appear to be all right. I had checked this continuity before by removing one of the wires. This was lead me to change the coils which did not correct the problem. When I start the dryer and the drum turns there is a click and the ignitor begins to glow. It remains glowing for a period of time but the burner does not light. After a period of time there is another click and the ignitor goes dark. It does this in every dryer cycle. If there were lint build up which there doesn't appear to be, how would that prevent the gas burner from coming on? Hope you can come up with another idea. Specifically what would prevent the gas flow from coming on when the ignitor has heated up other than the radiant sensor and the fuses in the rear?

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Larry -
September 04, 2013
A:

Hello glad to help Larry.  Thank You for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com.

Larry, you checked the ohms and got a 1 reading on the radiant sensor.   I am going to give you instructions that I have in order to change the sensor.

Here are instructions that I hope help:

1.  Disconnect the power source.  Use an adjustable wrenct to remove the gas flex line from the shut-off valve

2.  Pull the dryer out from the wall so you can access the back panel area.  Unscrew then remove the screw on each corner of the panel.   Then take off the back panel and put it and the 4 screws in a safe place to have handy for reinstallation.

3.  Lookd for the sensor between the exhaust and blower housing.  This heat sensor looks like a white plastic strip connected to two wires.  

4.  Pull softly on the connected wires and unplug them from the sensor.

5.  Unscrew and remove 2 screws that holds it in place.  Toss away the bad sensor and again put the 2 screws in a convienent place for putting on the new sensor.

6.  Put on the new sensor, align up the holes to be screwed back in.

7.  Reconnect the wires as you unhooked in step 4.  

8.  As you took all apart. Now reassemble it all in reverse.  Put it back towards the wall.   Re-hook up your gas flex line. Run a short cyle and test the new heat sensor.

Good luck Larry.

 

If you have further questions please let me know.

Thanks for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com

 

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Larry L -
Sears Technician
September 04, 2013
A:

Hello glad to help Larry.  Thank You for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com.

Larry, you checked the ohms and got a 1 reading on the radiant sensor.   I am going to give you instructions that I have in order to change the sensor.

Here are instructions that I hope help:

1.  Disconnect the power source.  Use an adjustable wrenct to remove the gas flex line from the shut-off valve

2.  Pull the dryer out from the wall so you can access the back panel area.  Unscrew then remove the screw on each corner of the panel.   Then take off the back panel and put it and the 4 screws in a safe place to have handy for reinstallation.

3.  Lookd for the sensor between the exhaust and blower housing.  This heat sensor looks like a white plastic strip connected to two wires.  

4.  Pull softly on the connected wires and unplug them from the sensor.

5.  Unscrew and remove 2 screws that holds it in place.  Toss away the bad sensor and again put the 2 screws in a convienent place for putting on the new sensor.

6.  Put on the new sensor, align up the holes to be screwed back in.

7.  Reconnect the wires as you unhooked in step 4.  

8.  As you took all apart. Now reassemble it all in reverse.  Put it back towards the wall.   Re-hook up your gas flex line. Run a short cyle and test the new heat sensor.

Good luck Larry.

 

If you have further questions please let me know.

Thanks for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com

 

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Larry L -
Sears Technician
September 04, 2013
A:

I don't understand. I don't know what you mean that I got a "1" reading on the radiant sensor. The ohmmeter showed zero (0) ohms which I take to mean that it has continuity. What does a "1" reading mean and how did you conclude that from what I wrote? Access to the radiant sensor appears to be from the front not the back on my dryer since I can't even see it from the back.

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Larry -
September 04, 2013
A:

Hello glad to help Larry.  Thank You for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com

 Larry, I am very sorry.   After rereading the first part, even I would be confused, not knowing what it meant.   Sorry please disreguard the 1 on the ohm.  

I reread the instructions and that is what it told me.   However, looking at the picture, I would have to agree with you.  The flame sensor is on the funnel burner on the bottom of the heater box.  

I was working on two Kenmore gas burner "radiant modules" at the same time and that was my fault.  Sorry, too big of a hurry in helping people.   Here is the correct Sensor part number  for the sensor.   #338906.

 If you have further questions please let me know.

Thanks for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com

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Larry L -
Sears Technician
September 04, 2013
A:

If the radiant sensor or heat sensor has continuity, that is it reads zero (0) ohms across its terminals with the wires disconnected is it bad? Why would I change it out if it does have continuity? Could you please re-read my last couple comments and re-address it. I currently don't see that the ohmmeter reading is telling me that the sensor needs replaced.

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Larry -
September 04, 2013
A:

Hello glad to help.  Thank You for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com

Thanks again Larry.  I am sorry for the miscommunications.  It is the important thing to have the continuity so I am surprised that it would read a (0) on the ohms.   

 I am looking at your burner system now.   I see there are 3 coils on the assembly.  Did you change all 3 coils?   There is also a coil assembly, key number 9 on the diagram that I will send you.   It is in the upper right dotted box.  The individual coils are key number 30, 31, and 32.   

coil valve picture 

 If you changed all 3 coils and still having this problem then the next step is key number 24 which is the whole assembly.  the hole valve valve assembly is the regulator for the gas and regulates how much gas, the coils which is what ignites the gas.

Im sorry too in that I will be leaving in just 15 minutes.  So if there is more questions, it will be tomorrow for me to answer them.

 If you have further questions please let me know.

Thanks for choosing Sears PartsDirect.com

 

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Larry L -
Sears Technician
September 04, 2013
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Q:

Kenmore Gas Dryer will not start when PTS button is pushed

A:

I understand the frustration of having your gas dryer not properly work. While you are waiting for an expert to respond, I have attached some helpful links below that may provide information to assist you with your question. Have a great day!

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Alina -
February 12, 2013
A:

Hi,

 

Thank you for your question. It is concerning when your appliance is not functioning correctly.

To check the push to start switch, with the dryer disconnected from the wall, open the console and find the switch.  Reconnect the dryer to the wall and turn the timer to TIMED DRY. Close the dryer door.  DO NOT press the push to start switch yet.  Measure the voltage between the black and the white or the white and red wire.  There should be 120 volts AC.  If not measure the blue wire at the timer the black wire at the switch.  If 120 volts AC present check the motor. If no voltage on the blue wire, check while in TIMED DRY, the black wire at the timer to the blue wire at the timer.  If you read voltage replace the timer.  If there is voltage at the push to start switch PRESS the start switch and the voltage should go to 0 Volts AC.  If not, replace the push to start switch.  If the voltage goes to 0 and the motor does not start. Hold the push to start switch in and using the multimeter check the doo switch.  When closed the should be 0 volts AC read across it,  If there is voltage there replace the door switch.      

Please feel free to let me know if you need further assistance. We are always here to help.

Thank you for using ManageMyLife.com.

Bill

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Bill__W -
Sears Technician
February 12, 2013
A:

I opened the console and found the PTS switch and measured the voltage between the black and white terminals with the dryer connected to the wall and the timer set to timed dry. I didn't read any voltage. I measured the voltage between the blue wire at the timer and the black wire at the PTS switch and there was no reading. I then tried to check the black wire at the timer to the blue wire at the timer and found no voltage. There appear to be multiple black wires on the timer but I didn't find a voltage reading from any of them to the blue wire. So what next? I did check the voltage on the outlet and it was 120 v. so power is getting to the dryer plug. Can I identify the exact black wire on the timer to measure to the blue wire?

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Larry -
February 12, 2013
A:

The black wire ar all the same wire they are internally connected At the timer if the unit is plugged in and the timer in the off position the reading would be 120 volts AC. find where the wiring harness plugs into the power cord and place one lead on the white wire there and the other on the black at the timer. 120 volts AC if so turn the timer to timed dry and check the blue at the timer to the white where the power cord plugs into the harness. 120 = timer ok 0 = faulty timer.

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Bill__W -
Sears Technician
February 12, 2013
A:

To be sure I measured the voltage across the connectors at the end of the power cord where the harness connections are made. I found the voltage there to be 120 volts. With the timer in the off position I measured the voltage from the black wire at the time to the white wire on the plug connection. There was no voltage reading. I tried measuring it at all the connectors with black wires. Since there was no voltage on that reading I assume the second reading from the blue wire at the time is not indicative. However, I moved the timer to timed dry and measured the voltage from the blue at the time to the white at the power cord connection. No voltage was detected. I assume that the hot wire on the cord connection is the red connector.

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Larry -
February 12, 2013
A:

Additionally, I tried measuring voltage from the black at the timer to the reddish orange on the cord connection. I did get voltage readings a varying amounts on all the black connections on timer. I also got a voltage reading on the blue at the timer. This may or may not mean anything.

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Larry -
February 12, 2013
A:

You have a faulty harness from where the power cord plugs in to the black at the timer.

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Bill__W -
Sears Technician
February 12, 2013
A:

OK. The hot voltage at the power cord plugs to an orange wire. I guess my question is where does this orange wire connect such that power gets to the black wires on the timer?

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Larry -
February 12, 2013
A:

the black is the hot all the way back to the power cord. Refer to the diagram I provided. The open dots are pluggable connectors and the solid dots are permenant connections. I would suspect the power cord is or Should be Black, White and green . If the orange is in the harness then it could be spliced in fot the black Orange usually goes to the neutral side of the drum light if you have one. All the blacks at the timer should be hot. If not unplug form the wall and ohm from the black wire on the timer to the power cord black or orange but this is the hot path. Good luck.

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Bill__W -
Sears Technician
February 12, 2013
A:

I traced the orange hot side from the plug connection to the harness down to the thermal fuse. I checked connectivity on the orange wire from the plug connection to the harness to both sides of the thermal fuse and the ohm meter shows full connectivity on both sides of the fuse. I then plugged the power cord in and checked the voltage on both sides of the thermal fuse from the white wire on the harness to power cord connection. In both cases I read 120 volts. Now when I looked at the electrical schematic that came with my dryer it indicates that the power then goes from the thermal fuse to the door switch and through the door switch to timer and timer motor as well as others. As I read the schematic, if the door switch is not the proper position, I won't get power to the timer, etc. If I'm right then the problem could be in the door switch if I read the schematic correctly. What is the easiest way to access the door switch on my dryer and how should I test it?

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Larry -
February 12, 2013
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