Model #11086570120 KENMORE Residential Dryer

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Q:

Kenmore 110.86570120 Dryer - Schematic?

A:

Little critters may be cute but not when they get inside and chew on the wiring. The expert will review and respond with instructions to help but if you do need the service manual, I see it is available at Sears Parts Direct. I attached that link below. Hope this helps repair the damage.

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Barbara H. -
March 18, 2012
A:

You may find that tech sheet that has the schematic inside the console. I have a tech sheet for that model but the information is on microfiche. I provided some images of that microfiche below. That information may help you check the wiring. Be sure that you unplug the dryer before accessing internal components. You should see 2 red wires connected to that heating element. The operating thermostat and high limit thermostat should be connected in series with the L1 leg of voltage supply to that heating element. I traced the L1 leg in red and the L2 leg in red/yellow on that third image. There should be a wire (probably orange) that connects to that heating element lead that will go up to the resistor by the timer in the console.

I recommend that you also check the house circuit breakers for the dryer outlet. The dryer will run if only that L1 leg of power is provided to the dryer. If that 120 volt L2 leg is not supplied to the dryer, the element will not heat. If the house circuit breakers are okay, you can carefully check the voltage at the dryer outlet as shown in the 4th image. NOTE: You should only check that live outlet voltage if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it. Wear proper safety equipment (electrical safety gloves and safety goggles) when checking that voltage .

I hope that this information helps. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician examine and repair the dryer, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 20, 2012
A:

Here is the diagram for the outlet voltage.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 20, 2012
A:

Thanks Barbara and Lyle! Lyle, I work on tube amplifiers, so I do feel confident working with live electricity and always take any safety precautions possible. I had already checked the voltages, as well as the thermostats and thermal fuse. If I read the schematic correctly, the only thing I see that I have not checked that may keep the heat from working is the centrifugal switch. The timer is also not as well as I had originally thought, it may be due for a replacement even if the problem is elsewhere. Looking at the images you provided helps me better understand how this dryer works. It will be a few days before I can work on it again. I'm glad this forum is available, wish I had known about it the last time I worked on a dryer. That one had a complete service manual in the top with tests for nearly everything EXCEPT what the actual problem was, a bad relay, which I was able to diagnose, and when replaced the dryer worked fine again. I traded it with a friend for this older one. Let no good deed go unpunished! *L* Thanks again!

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James -
March 20, 2012
A:

I have one more quick tip since you are comfortable with checking those voltages. Pull one of the wires off of that heating element to isolate the circuit to a single leg of voltage. Tape the end of that wire that you removed with electrical tape to keep it from shorting to the metal cabinet. Start the dryer in a heated cycle and see if you are getting the 120 volts from that single leg that is still connected to the heating element. Unplug the dryer and repeat the process for the other leg. This should help you determine which side of that circuit to check. If you need more help, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 21, 2012
A:

Thanks again Lyle! I found the culprit. I had checked the terminal block from the outside and knew that I was getting correct voltage there, but when I traced both sides of the circuit back from the heater element, I found a bad connection on the *other* side of the terminal block. I don't consider the time I spent taking everything apart wasted as the dryer is now cleaned out, and I even found a few dollars in coins! I'll finish putting it all back together this weekend, but I'm sure it will work. It seems that the only part of the timer that's not switching correctly is the buzzer. I can live with that, so I'm not going to try to "tweak" those contacts and risk messing up the others. Thanks again!

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James -
March 21, 2012
A:

Thanks for letting us know what you found. We are glad to hear that the dryer is working again. Let us know if you ever need more help.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
March 22, 2012
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