Model #11078092700 KENMORE ELITE Residential Dryer

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Question and Answers

Q:

converting my Kenmore Gensis Gas Dryer back to Natural Gas

A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

That is correct; there is NOT a kit to convert the dryer back to natural gas. If you still have the natural gas orifice that was taken out to install the LP orifice, you can simply remove the LP orifice and install the Natural gas orifice. Then you must convert the gas pressure regulator back for Natural gas. Reverse the procedure in the LP kit instructions for converting the gas pressure regulator back to Natural gas. To convert the gas valve pressure regulator back to Natural gas, remove the hex nut on top of the pressure regulator and then remove the long blocking pin and then re-install the cap. I added an image of the pressure regulator showing the blocking pin that must be removed for Natural gas.
 
If you did not save the original Natural gas orifice, the Natural gas orifice needed is part #15418 which can be ordered from Searspartsdirect.com. 
 
 I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post. 

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
November 07, 2013
Q:

Model #11078092700 Dryer Fault codes 11078092700 Kenmore Elite Dryer

A:

Searspartsdirect.com is always a great resource to find the answers to your parts questions. Your Sears partsdirect expert will research your question and respond within two business days but usually sooner. Thank you for using Searspartsdirect.com!

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Marc -
July 14, 2013
A:

I know that it can be very frustrating to have issues with your dryer. The F42 error code indicates an Undervoltage Failure. What this means is that the motor control detect that the voltage is under 90 VAC. If you feel comfortable troubleshooting this yourself, the images below will provide the information that you need. I hope this helps. If you need further assistance, please reply to this thread. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
July 15, 2013
A:

How do I know if its a real voltage problem or a dryer malfunction? The power quality in my house is pretty bad, and I wouldn't be surprised if the voltage occasionally momentarily drops below 90. But his happens with almost every load. I hate to spend hundreds for a dryer service man who may not fix it then spend who knows how much on an electrician to fix the house wiring. But its on';y been happening a couple weeks, so its probably the dryer.

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Robert -
July 17, 2013
A:

I am very sorry for the confusion. The images for the troubleshooting are below. These will help you determine what is causing the problem. Please let me know if there is anything else you need. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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AnneJ -
Sears Technician
July 19, 2013
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Q:

How do I replace door latch on door for Kenmore Elite Oasis dryer?

A:

I added images below of the door catch. It is not an easy procedure to remove the door catch. The door catch is basically spring loaded and once it's pushed and locked in you will need to access the back side of the door catch in order to squeeze the spring catch inwards so that it can be pushed out and replaced. You will need to separate the outer door panel from the inner panel in order to access the back side of the door catch. NOTE: Internal metal edges in the door can be sharp. Protective gloves are recommended.

You will need to remove the door from the dryer and place it on a protected flat surface. Remove all the screws along the outer edge of the door and separate the inner and outer door panels. You will likely need a large pair of channel lock pliers in order to squeeze the two locking tabs inwards and then push the door catch out of the opening. To install the new door catch, simply push it in.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
April 09, 2010
A:

Last night, as I closed the door on our Kenmore Oasis dryer, I heard a loud pop and the end result is the junky door catch has broken! Since there is another, unused catch on the other side (in case right-hinged door gets converted to left-hinged), I thought, great, we have a spare part to switch out. Alas, it will be a two-person job but far, far preferable to calling out a repairman for vastly over-priced service call on a $5.14 part. We'll still probably order a spare & pay outrageous shipping and handling cost as 'insurance' for when other catch breaks. Thanks, Joey S, for the How-To advice. For now, I'm using packing tape in 3 places to keep door shut while drying. Actually, the fit is tighter than it was with the catch! (We always thought the door wasn't assembled properly.)

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Terri -
April 27, 2011
A:

I just dealt with the same problem, and I found that getting the old catch out is tricky -- if you get a channel lock on the tabs, there's no room to push the catch forward out the hole. And if you get one tab depressed and out of the hole, and then try to get the other one through, the first one pops back into place. It did end up being a two-person job, although someone with 5 or 6 arms could handle it alone. And instead of the channel locks, use a screwdriver.

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GreenGardener -
July 10, 2011
A:

i had the same thing happen to me...but was able to replace it from the front without taking the door apart...it takes care not to scratch the door...and a bunch of patience... from the front...you can squeeze the catch top and bottom and get it to "pop" either the top or the bottom...but can't get enough pressure to squeeze both the release the "catch ears"... so...here's what i did... 1) pop the top and tilt the catch forward...put blue painters tape behind...push back and reseat... 2) pop the bottom...and do the same...so you have tape to protect the paint...push the bottom back and reseat... 3) pull the top of the catch slightly away and carefully slide a thin flat blade screwdriver behind the top...but do not apply pressure... 4) use your finger to push up the bottom of the catch and "pop" the bottom out... 5) holding the bottom firm with your finger...push down on the screwdriver from the top...the screwdriver will put enough pressure on the top "ear" to release it...there will be enough forward pressure for the catch will virtually come out by itself... 6) use the same process to remove the "spare" catch...or wait 2 week for sears to send the new part... 7) remove the blue tape and then push in the new part in the opening... hope this helps...

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christine preston -
January 15, 2012
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