Model #11076433600 KENMORE Residential Dryer

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Question and Answers

Q:

Do you have disassembly instructions for a Kenmore dryer model 110.76433600?

A:

Disassembling the dryer will not help much with space considerations of your confined space. The cabinet of the dryer (back and both sides) is one piece. To diagnose and repair this heating failure, you will mainly need to access the back of the dryer and remove the back panel if possible.

Before moving the dryer, I recommend that you check the house electrical breakers or fuses for the dryer outlet first. The dryer will run if only one of the 120 volt legs of 240 volt power is supplied to the dryer. If the second 120 volt leg of power is missing, the dryer will not heat.

If the breakers are okay, I recommend that you check the voltage at the outlet using a volt/ohm meter. The diagram below shows the voltages that should be measured on a typical 240 volt outlet. NOTE: You should only check this live outlet voltage if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it.

If the outlet is okay, you could have a bad heater element, a failed temperature switch, a bad operating thermostat (there are two, one for each temperature setting), a bad high limit thermostat, a failed timer contact, a bad motor centrifugal switch or a wiring failure in the heater circuit.

Try both settings on the temperature switch to see if the dryer will heat on either setting. If the dryer heats on one setting and not the other then one of the operating thermostats is bad.

The next troubleshooting steps are going to require some access to the back of the dryer. You can check the temperature switch in the console first. Unplug the dryer to disconnect electrical power. You may be able to carefully lean the dryer forward to access the back of the console. Remove the back panel of the console. Check the wire connections on the temperature switch. A disconnected wire could cause this problem. You should see a red wire connected to the AH contact on the temperature switch. There should be a wire connected to the AH1 and a wire connected to the AH2 contact. I don't have wire colors available for these wires. These wires go to the normal thermostat and the low temperature thermostat. With a volt/ohm meter, you can check the continuity between AH and AH1 when the dryer is set to normal heat. You should measure near zero ohms of resistance (continuity). Move the switch to the low temperature setting and check the continuity between AH and AH2. If the resistance readings are open (Ol - open load or infinite resistance) between the contacts then the temperature switch will need to be replaced. You can order parts from the Sears PartsDirect website.

If the temperature switch is okay then you will need to check the heating element, the high limit thermostat and the operating thermostats for continuity (with the dryer still _unplugged_). Move the dryer forward and take off the back panel. Remove one wire from the heating element (Key 17 in the parts image below) and measure the resistance across the leads of this component. It should measure between 8 and 15 ohms of resistance. If it is open, it will need to be replaced. If the heating element is okay, you can check the high limit thermostat (Key 15) on the side of the heater box. This thermostat should measure near zero ohms of resistance (continuity). You can check the operating thermostats (Keys 18 & 19) on the heater box in the same manner. You may find the cause of your heating failure by checking these components.

If all of the above components are okay, you could have a failed motor centrifugal switch, bad timer or a wiring failure that is preventing the dryer from heating.

The third image below shows the procedure for removing the front panel and the drum in the dryer. This information may be helpful considering your space limitations.

If you need more help, resubmit your question with additional details.

NOTE: If you need to replace the dryer, you may consider a stack configuration based on your limited space.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 24, 2010

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