Model #11074902200 KENMORE Residential Dryer

  • Top And Console
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  • Cabinet
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  • Bulkhead
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  • Burner Assembly
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Question and Answers

Q:

Kenmore gas dryer won't heat.

A:

Thank you for your question.  I am sorry for the problem with your Kenmore 110.74902200 Gas Dryer.   I assume by relays you mean thermostats since this dryer has no relays.  The usual suspect when a gas dryer will run but not heat is the thermal fuse.  The Thermal Fuse is located  on the blower housing next to the control thermostat.   It can be checked with a meter for continuity.  It can even be bypassed for a moment if a meter is not available.  Let me know if you wish to learn more about this.  The diagram below has the heating circuit highlighted which may be helpful to you.   I hope this helps.  You can reply below with any additional details for further assistance. 

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
November 04, 2013
A:

My mistake, I meant the valve coil kit...not relays... I found that it was the thermal fuse....I should have started there first...I guess I am stuck with the parts I ordered as I opened the packages, correct?

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Dominic -
November 04, 2013
A:

Packages open means you can not return. I am glad you got he dryer fixed.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
November 06, 2013
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Q:

.Kenmore 90 Series GAS Dryer Model # 110.74902200 only gets hot 1% of time I turn on.

A:

Having a working dryer in the home is a necessity. The dryer not heating can be concerning. I found some information for you that I am hoping will help you with the dryer. I am adding the link below to help you with your question while you wait for your expert response. I do hope that this will help you fix the dryer.

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Marc H -
July 10, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

A power failure would not very likely cause any harm to any of the components on this model dryer. It does not have any electronic control boards other than the small control board which is only used in the "Automatic" dry cycles. When the timer is in the off position, timer contact BK and BU is open breaking the voltage supply to the timer.

Based on your symptom, I suspect weak solenoid coils on the gas valve assembly. To verify if the solenoids are weak, pry the small square inspection cover off located below the door. Start the dryer and watch through the inspection hole for the glow of the igniter. If the dryer has need been previously running, you should find the glow bar igniter glowing red and then fade off and then have burner ignition. The burner will remain on until the operating thermostat is satisfied at which time the flame will shut off. Once the drum temperature drops, the operating thermostat will re-close and cause the igniter to begin to glow and repeat the operation. Now, you may have to monitor the igniter and burner operation for a few cycles and if you find the igniter glowing and fading off without burner ignition; this would indicate weak solenoid coils and both coils will need to be replaced.

I added a video showing the procedure of accessing and replacing the solenoid coils . NOTE: Disconnect the power cord from the power source before servicing.

The solenoid coil kit can be ordered from Sears Parts Direct.

This may be the issue. If not, please reply and I will be glad to assist you further.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
July 13, 2012
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Q:

Follow up question: why is my Kenmore gas dryer not igniting? Response to David W.

A:

If we knew the voltage to the igniter we would have a starting point. But, yes the igniter sounds ok. A new igniter should read 40 ohms resistance & flame sensor 0 ohms resistance. (closed). In the wiring diagram provided you can see the RED wire at the timer, this is L1 voltage, the red wire has to pass through the hi-limit thermostat #34 the thermal cutoff #31 the operating thermostat #41 the thermal fuse #39 & the flame sensor #9. This path of voltage provides L1 voltage to the igniter. The neutral leg goes through the door switch. All of the components mentioned from RED on the timer to both sides of the flame sensor have to read closed, 0 resistance. If you decide to check voltage, start at the red wire at the timer to a neutral & work your way towards the igniter, the component with 120volts on one side (to neutral) but not the other will be the faulty part. Be sure the dryer is on & running in the heat setting before starting the voltage test.

If you find the thermal fuse or cutoff bad (open) be sure to check for poor venting & air flow. Remember to use extreme caution when working with live voltage & to disconnect power when making resistance checks.

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biker dave -
Sears Technician
December 05, 2009
A:

testing for answers

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AgrawalV -
December 07, 2009
A:
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 27, 2012
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