Model #1107008500 KENMORE Residential Dryer

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Question and Answers

Q:

Kenmore Dryer 1007008500 Not Heating

A:

I'm sorry about the difficulties you continue to have with your dryer. I have taken some time to research your question here on the Manage My Life website and I noticed that someone else had asked a similar question with a posted response from an expert. I attached the link below for you to view. I hope the link that I provided is helpful. Have a nice day!

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Yadira B -
December 20, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

I must assume the correct model of your dryer is 110.7008500.

The first thing that should be checked and confirmed is the voltage supply at the terminal block where the power cord is attached. If the dryer is not getting 220 volts, the heating element will hot heat. The voltage will need to be measured with a voltage meter. You need to place the two voltage meter leads across the two outer terminals at the terminal block. If it does not measure 220, locate the house circuit breakers dedicated for the dryer and reset both breakers by flipping them both off and on 2-3 times and then recheck the voltage supply. If you do not measure 220 volts, the problem is in the house wiring, receptacle or at the breaker box. NOTE: I do not recommend measuring the voltage supply unless you have experience and feel safe and confident in doing so; otherwise I suggest calling a service technician to diagnose and repair your dryer.

If you do measure 220 volts, then it could have a faulty motor centrifugal switch or a faulty timer providing there are no other open components or an open circuit in the heating circuit. Be sure to inspect the wires connected at the terminal block for burnt wire connections when checking the voltage supply at the terminal block.

I added an image below of the wiring diagram so that you can see circuit involved in the heating circuit. The line one voltage (120) supplied to the timer. When the timer is turned on, timer contact Y and R must close in order to provide the line one voltage to the temperature switch. From the temperature the line one voltage is routed to the one of the two operating thermostats to one lead of the heating element. The line two (120) voltage supply originates at the terminal block where the power cord attaches. Line two voltage is connected to the motor centrifugal switch. When the motor starts, contacts 2M and 1M must close to complete the line two voltage supply to the other terminal lead of the heating element. When you measure across the two terminals connected to the heating element, it must measure 220 volts or it will not heat. If you feel safe and confident in making voltage measurements, while the dryer is running, place one voltage meter lead across terminal 2M and 1M and if the voltage measures 220 volts, then you know the M1 and M2 is not closing. If it was closed and you have the proper voltage supply, it would not measure any voltage. You can measure voltage across any of the switches/thermostats while running and if it measure 220, the component/circuit is open.

You can also manual slide the centrifugal switch disc over and check for continuity across M1 and M2 but you will need to disconnect the wires from M1 and M2 before doing so. If the motor centrifugal switch is faulty, I can be sure which motor is in your unit of which centrifugal switch would replace it. The centrifugal switch can be replaced while the motor is in place.

I hope this is helpful. If I may be of further assistance as more details become available, please reply to this post.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
December 21, 2012
A:

Joey S, You are a stud. I am happy to report that I found a 30 AMP circuit breaker, part of a cluster of four that supports the dryer and kitchen range, that needed resetting on the outdoor panel. After all these years of patching wires, replacing heater coils and thermostats, it seems too easy to simply reset a circuit breaker. I'll start there next time the heat stops. Thank you for being an expert and helping figure this out. I expect to enjoy years more of service since I also now have all new thermostats and heater coil. With appreciation, David

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David -
December 21, 2012
A:

David: I'm glad I was able to help. Have a great Holiday to you and yours. Thank you for using Manage My Life.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
December 21, 2012
A:

Joey S, I am sad to report that, even though the dryer heating element comes on now, after about 90 seconds the circuit breaker trips again. If there were a dead short it would trip immediately. So what condition could be causing this behavior? Anything in the dryer? A bad circuit breaker? I will appreciate any advice you can give. David

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David -
December 21, 2012
A:

David: It is most likely a weak circuit breaker or there is loose wire connection in the electrical supply to the dryer. It's not likely anything in the dryer causing the breaker to trip. If it was dead short it would happen immediately as you said.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
December 24, 2012
A:

Joey S, Thank you again for your experitse. I purchased a new circuit breaker, installed it yesterday, and the heating coil now stays on for the complete drying cycle. It is a good thing that us do-it-yourselfers can have access to professional experience and knowledge. I was smart enough to ask for help when I realized I needed it, after spending $170 on parts that did not fix the problem. Your direction led me to a fix that required only another $20 expense for the new circuit breaker. Life is good. David

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David -
January 06, 2013
A:

David: I'm glad I was able to help you. Have a great day.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
January 07, 2013
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