Model #1107008210 KENMORE Residential Dryer

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Q:

In need of wiring schematic for Kenmore dryer

A:

Needing a wiring schematic for your Dryer is great to have. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question, a suggestion I have is to visit Sears Parts Direct website to speak with a Sears associate. I have attached the link below. Hope this helps!

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Dezeray S -
March 14, 2011
A:

I've already (a) been to www.searspartsdirect.com, (b) did the chat, and (c) asked the expert. Parts Direct only has exploded views of the dryer in question, no schematics. My problems are (1) very low heat in main dry cycle, and (2) no heat in delicate cycle. At first I thought it might be the element or one of the thermostat(s), but all seem fine and intact. This is why I'm looking for a schematic (wiring diagram). I need to better understand how with only a single coil heating element in series with two thermostats they are still getting multiple heating levels. (IOW, are they using a motor winding as a dummy load, or what?) Does anyone have the wiring diagram for this model? ( Kenmore 110.7008210 ) . Thanks!

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KeithMc -
March 14, 2011
A:

BTW... If anyone HAS this model of dryer, and DOES have a schematic (wiring diagram) anywhere, a scan or even a high res photo of it posted or emailed to me would be wonderful! Thanks! - KeithMc.

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KeithMc -
March 14, 2011
A:

Thank you for your question.

I have posted the wiring diagram below for the dryer. I am sorry about quality of the diagram but due to the age of the dryer, the only copy we have is on microfiche.

If you need further assistance, please reply below with more details.

Here is a link to order any parts you need. Sears Parts Direct .

Thank you for using Mange my life.

Mark T.

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Mark T -
Sears Technician
March 15, 2011
A:

Thanks for the help! It turned out that BOTH crimp terminals on the heater's centrifugal enable switch under the drum by the motor had failed. (One terminal had a broken wrap, and the other was simply loose.) Removing and crimping on new terminals immediately fixed the problem. The above diagnostic symptoms were incorrect. It was really an INTERMITTENT problem. As the centrifugal switch was attached to the motor, vibrating the loose terminals caused intermittent heat. When the one terminal finally broke free and the heater wire was simply leaning on the terminal, it finally had practically no heat at all. The availability of a schematic allowed me to trace, find the problem and enabled its repair, vs scrapping a perfectly fine dryer over a silly failed few cent part. Please keep those schematics available! BTW... IMHO, the schematic of this dryer is quite elegant. In only a very few parts, circuits, and wires, not only does it do the job it also includes a number of good safety cutout features to protect the user. Nice job, mystery engineer! (The only thing I'd have added would have been a half-power heat cycle, for finer fabrics...Easy to do - simply switch the heater coil to run on 120VAC vs 240VAC. :-) To help others, I've regenerated the schematic from the above fiche copy, and updated it. I've reorganized it, added some missing wire color codes, fixed the timer data, etc. It is attached below. Hopefully, this will help someone else with the same, or similar model dryer. Thanks again for the help! - Keith Mc.

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KeithMc -
March 29, 2011
A:

Thank you for the reply. Great job cleaning up the image of the wiring diagram, I have saved a copy. I am glad you were able to repair the dryer yourself and save. Most repairs are not difficult if you have the instructions and confidence. Please keep us in mind the next time you are having a problem with any of your appliances.

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Mark T -
Sears Technician
March 30, 2011
A:

I earlier wrote: >(The only thing I'd have added would have been a half-power heat cycle, for finer > fabrics...Easy to do - simply switch the heater coil to run on 120VAC vs 240VAC. :-) Actually, that's wrong, as the temp is controlled via a thermostat. What you'd need to do is to add in a lower temp thermostat in series with the heater & thermostat chain, and mount it to the heat duct like the original thermostat to sense its temperature. Logically, I'd add the wiring in the circuit between the timer and the Operating Thermostat (IOW, break the R-T1 connection, and insert it "inline".) Now mount a 20A SPST switch to the control panel to short out the new, lower temperature thermostat. (The wiring will have to be thick enough to safely handle the current - I'd probably use 10 gauge stranded wire). Now, "Low temp" is selected whenever the switch is open, because the lower temp thermostat will open before the original one. Closing the switch will select "Normal (higher) heat", as the original (higher temperature) thermostat will regulate the heat as before. NEW QUESTIONS: Does anyone know what the original Operating Thermostat specs are for this dryer? (IOW, it "opens at *** degrees F, closes at yyy degrees F".) What is the standard "low temp" temperature, for a dryer thermostat? What would the Kenmore part numbers be, for those two temperatures?

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KeithMc -
March 12, 2012
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