Model #1106918721 KENMORE Residential Dryer

  • Bulkhead Assembly
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  • Cabinet Assembly
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  • Top And Console Assembly
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Question and Answers

Q:

my electric dryer will not heat

A:

It can be frustrating when your Dryer is not drying properly. While you are waiting on an expert to answer your question, I was searching in the Manage My Life website and found your owner's manual. I have attached the links below. Hope this helps!

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Dezeray S -
April 25, 2011
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

You older model dryer does not use a heater relay. In order for the heating element to operate normally it will require 220-240 volts supplied to it. Your electrical supply has two different legs of voltage. It has line one (L1) voltage and it has line two (L2) voltage. Each leg is 110-120 volts, when you measure across the two legs it will measure 220-240 volts. The heating element must have L1 and L2 voltages supplied to it in order to heat. The line 2 (L2) voltage circuit consist of an electrical circuit originating at the terminal block where the power cord is attached. The Line 2 circuit connects to the motor centrifugal switch at terminal 2M. When the motor starts and begins running, contact 2M and 1M closes and completes the L2 path of voltage to one H2 terminal on the heating element. When the timer is turned to a cycle, timer contact Y and R closes to complete the circuit to the operating thermostat and over to the safety thermostat and then over to H1 terminal on the heating element. It sounds like the RED wire that you repaired last time may be have a bad connection or the motor centrifugal switch is not closing M1 to M2. I added an image of basic electric heater element circuit below. Note: You model will not have a thermal cut off in the circuit and at the timer you will have yellow closing to red instead of Black to Red.

Since you feel confident and safe in checking voltages, one easy way to find out which component may not be closing is too place you meter leads across the terminals of the switch while its running. If the switch/contact is closed it will not measure any voltage but if the switch or contact is open, it will measure 220-240 volts.

I hope this information helps you locate the break in one of the two circuits. Use extreme caution when checking and working with live voltages.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
April 26, 2011
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