Model #11068942890 KENMORE Residential Dryer

  • Top And Console
    3 Results
  • Cabinet
    3 Results
  • Bulkhead
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Question and Answers

Q:

Attention Lyle Weischwill

A:

That model number for the dryer does not look quite right. Based on your description and the previous help that I provided, I think that you likely have a dryer model similar to model 110.64952300. I don't have my phone to refer to the previous text that you sent me regarding the heater element replacement part.

I provided a wiring diagram in the first image with the heating circuit for the above model of dryer. The heater circuit is traced in red and green. The 120 volt L1 leg of 240 volt power is traced in red and the L2 leg is traced in green. Check the circuit breakers to make sure that one is not tripped. Shut off the dryer breaker and then turn it back on. It is normally a double throw circuit breaker. If the L2 side was tripped, this may reset it so that the dryer heats. You can also carefully check the voltage at the dryer outlet using a volt/ohm meter. The second image shows the voltage that you should measure at the outlet. NOTE: You should only check the live outlet voltage if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it.

If the outlet voltage is okay, then you could have a bad heating element (even though you just replaced it). An "open" thermal cut-off fuse could also cause this problem. Since your dryer was getting so hot, you may have a problem with the thermostats. The third image shows the location of the operating thermostat, thermal cut-off fuse and the high limit thermostat that are in the heating circuit. You can unplug the dryer and tape the wires going to the thermal cut-off fuse with electrical tape. This will bypass that fuse. Reassemble the dryer and run it temporarily in a heated cycle to see if the element will heat. If it does, then the thermal cut-off fuse and the high limit thermostat will need to be replaced. You will likely need to replace the operating thermostat as well.

NOTE: Do not continue to run the dryer with the thermal cut-off fuse bypassed. This is an important safety component that must be replaced to safely operate the dryer.

This tips should help you get started. I added some additional photos of dryer dis-assembly in the images below. Let me know if you need more help.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
December 02, 2010
A:

Here are more images.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
December 02, 2010
A:

Thanks Lyle! I was able to figure out the problem by bypassing the thermal cut-off. I guess I will be ordering three new parts today :(

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Curtis -
December 06, 2010
A:

My model number is 110.68942890 (for next time) ;)

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Curtis -
December 06, 2010
A:

There may be a kit that has all 3 thermostats (operating thermostat, high limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off fuse. Reply with the full Kenmore model number off of the dryer (110.6 . . .) and I will check.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
December 06, 2010
A:

Lyle, my model number is 110.68942890. I'm researching the parts now and I think I need the Dryer Thermal Fuse Thermostat Kit 279816 which apparently contains the thermal fuse and one of the thermostats you mentioned, but I'm not sure which one. I found one at Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/Kenmore-Dryer-Thermal-Thermostat-279816/dp/B001PAUXRY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1291683125&sr=8-2 ) for only $4.95 (that's where I got the heating element), and for about $30 from other places. The link I posted does not have a picture so I have a feeling it's not what I think it is... I'll wait until you reply before I order anything. Thanks, Curtis I took off that cover that has the lint trap and that was FULL of lint. I guess I should do that once every few years from now on...

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Curtis -
December 06, 2010
A:

Thanks for the model number. That dryer has a thermistor (resistance temperature detector) for the electronic control board instead of a mechanical thermostat to cycle the dryer temperature. The part number for the thermostat kit that has the high limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off fuse for the side of the heater box assembly is 279769. That kit is likely the same as the 279816 that you mentioned above. I recommend that you use the 279769. The thermistor is part number 8577274. If you replace the thermistor and still have problems with the dryer overheating then you likely have a bad control board or stuck heater relay in the console. Let me know if you need more help.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
December 07, 2010
A:

Lyle, Yesterday the parts arrived and I replaced everything successfully. I turned it on and it heated up. However, my wife tried to dry the first load of laundry and it stopped heating again. I just tried various things like switching the wires around, etc. The only way it heats is if I bypass the cut-off fuse. I pulled everything back out and took off the fuse. My ohm meter indicates that the fuse is open (no activity on the meter). Shouldn't it be closed when it is cool? I imagine something just blew that new fuse. Do you have any other ideas? I'm thinking about C4. Curtis

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Curtis -
December 11, 2010
A:

Since it heats when you bypass the thermal cut-off fuse, that component is apparently blown again. Make sure that you had it in the right location. It should have been at the back of the heater box toward the rear part of the dryer. The high limit thermostat should have "opened" to shut off the heater and protect that fuse from blowing. Obviously that did not happen. The thermal cut-off fuse will need to be replaced again. With that fuse jumped, remove the flexible vent hose from behind the dryer and run it in a heated cycle to check the cycling temperature. See if the heating element cycles off when the exhaust air temperature reaches 150 degrees. If not, then you could have a bad thermistor temperature sensor (unless you just replaced it -- see above for part number). If the thermistor is okay, then you could have a stuck heater relay in the console. A heating element that is shorted to the metal cabinet could also heat constantly. The images below show the technical information for this type of dryer. The wiring diagram is shown in the second image. If you did not replace the thermistor (temperature sensor on the blower housing), unplug the dryer and check the resistance through that component. It should measure between 10K and 12K ohms (10,000 - 12,000 ohms) at room temperature. If the thermistor is bad, it will need to be replaced. If the thermistor is okay, check the continuity through the heater relay (with the dryer still UNPLUGGED). if the heater relay is okay, then you can check the resistance of the heating element. If the resistance is okay (between 7 and 12 ohms) then I recommend that you remove one wire from the element and check the resistance between the spade where the wire was removed and a portion of the bare metal cabinet beside the heating element. This will check for a short to the cabinet in the heating element. Repeat the process with the opposite wire. (Continued)

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
December 11, 2010
A:

If the thermistor, heating element and heater relay are all okay, then you will probably need to replace the electronic control board in the console. Replacing the dryer is an option as well. Let me know if you need more help.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
December 11, 2010
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Q:

Why won't my Kenmore dryer start?

A:

Hold the push-to-start switch down for a couple of seconds to see if the dryer motor will run when this button is held down. If it does, then you likely have a failed motor relay or a failed Evenheat electronic control board. The following link of a previous answer describes troubleshooting for this type of problem: What could cause my Kenmore model 11060972990 dryer to stop running when I release the start button? To access the console in your model of dryer, unplug the unit and remove the plastic end cap from each side of the console. Remove the screw that you will find under each end cap that secures the console to the top dryer panel. Pull the console slightly forward and then hinge it up and back over the top of the back dryer panel.

Check to see if the interior drum light turns on when the dryer door is opened. If not, check to see if the bulb is burned out (with the dryer unplugged). If the bulb is good and the light won't turn on when the door is opened, then you likely have a failed door switch that is preventing your dryer from running.

If the interior light is okay, you could have a broken drive belt or a blown thermal fuse. You would likely hear the click of the motor relay energizing the drive motor circuit if one of these components is bad. To check these components, unplug the dryer and remove the bottom front service panel. The following link shows how to remove this panel: How do I remove the bottom panel from the dryer to clean behind it? With the bottom front service panel removed, you can see if the drive belt is broken. If not, I recommend checking the thermal fuse. The following link of a previous answer describes how to access and test this fuse: Where is the thermal fuse in my Kenmore Elite dryer model 110.64942300?

Your dryer has a different control system than the dryer in the above previous answer. The thermal fuse is in the same place. If the thermal fuse is bad, you can order a new one from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for your model is 3390719. NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown in your dryer, check the exhaust venting for a restriction. Wash the lint screen with water and dry it thoroughly to remove any residue that may have accumulated from dryer softening sheets if you use them. This would prevent the thermal fuse from blowing again shortly after you replace it.

If the thermal fuse and belt are both okay, you could have a motor failure or a wiring problem in the motor circuit.

If you need more help, resubmit your question with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician

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