Model #11068652700 KENMORE Residential Dryer

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Question and Answers

Q:

my dryer is not heating and i put a new element in it; I checked power to dryer so what else could it be? 11068652700 Kenmore Residential dryer

A:

Thank You for contacting SearsPartsDirect.com. I do apologize for the delay in answering your question.

First I recommend checking for a tripped breaker. This dryer will run just fine on 120 volts but won't heat unless it gets the full 240 volts. If the breaker seems ok, the problem could be with a thermostat, thermal cutoff, timer contact or motor switch. If any of these components show to be open, it will need to be replaced. However, the motor switch will not close until the motor is running. I recommend having a technician make this check. A meter will be needed to check these components.

If you need further assistance, please resubmit your question with additional details. Thanks for visiting SearsPartsDirect.com

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Desirea -
Sears Technician
March 24, 2014
Q:

Wiring Diagram for Kenmore dryer 11068652700

A:

Taking over an unfinished repair would make you want to double check all the wires. The expert can provide more detail to help. I find one previous expert post with a diagram attachment for this model. I don't think it is everything needed but may help. I attached the link below. Hope this helps.

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Barbara H. -
March 19, 2011
A:

I hope the wiring diagram below will help you with this problem. Most parts have two terminals and two wires and it doesn't matter which wire goes on which terminal.

I hope this helps but you can reply with any additional details for further assistance.

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Fred M -
Sears Technician
March 20, 2011
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Q:

Why is my Kenmore dryer not heating?

A:

On something like this you will need a volt/ohm meter to diagnose the problem. We need to know what the supply voltage is for a starting point. An electric dryer will run but not heat if one of the double 30 amp breakers has tripped. If you have the correct 220volts supplied to the dryer you need to start at the heating element & work your way back with the meter until we find out where we are loosing voltage from. L1 comes from the timer & has to go through the thermal cutoff, operating thermostat & the hi-limit to one side of the heating element. L2 goes through the motor switch to the other side of the heating element.

Please see the wiring diagram provided in the image below.

Remember to always use extreme caution when working with live voltage.

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biker dave -
Sears Technician
September 10, 2009

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