Model #11066914692 KENMORE Residential Dryer

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Question and Answers

Q:

Drying rack 11066914692 Kenmore Electric dryer

A:

Thank you for being Sears’ valued member and for contacting SearsPartsDirect.com with your question about a drying rack for your Kenmore Elite dryer model 11066914692. I will be happy to help you with this. I have located the drying rack and have included the link below for you to view and order the part. 

I hope this answers your question. Thank you for choosing Sears, we appreciate your business. 
 

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Rachel Morgan -
Sears Technician
January 05, 2015
A:

thanks for the fast reply. So on the part that you provided the link to : Rack-dry 8212450A, is this the same as the Whirlpool drying rack 8212450A? Also, you mentioned that my dryer is a "Kenmore Elite" dryer, other than looking at the back of the machine, I cannot find any mentioning of my dryer being an Elite model. I just wanted to be sure that you looked up the correct model dryer, prior to me spending money on buying a part that might not fit, etc. looking forward to your reply. thanks again.

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James -
January 05, 2015
A:

Thank you for your quick response. I apologize for my typing error. Your dryer is a Kenmore, not a Kenmore Elite. The part number 8212450A is the correct part. Your Kenmore dryer was made for Sears by Whirlpool. This is the manufacturer’s drying rack for your dryer.  It has been substituted so it may look a little different than the one that was made for it originally. I hope this clears up any confusion. Thank you again for choosing Sears. Happy New Year!
 

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Rachel Morgan -
Sears Technician
January 05, 2015
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Q:

How do you replace the heating element on Kenmore 90 series model number 11066914692?

A:

First, I recommend that you check the house electrical breakers for the dryer outlet. The dryer will run if only one of the 120 volt legs of 240 volt power is supplied to the dryer. If the second 120 volt leg is missing, the dryer will not heat. If the breakers are okay, I recommend that your check the voltage at the outlet using the diagram in the first image below.

NOTE: You should only check this live voltage with a volt/ohm meter if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it. Always unplug or de-energize electrical equipment before removing covers or attempting service. Be careful and wear appropriate hand protection when working around sharp metal parts.

If the outlet voltage is okay, you could have a failed heating element, a blown thermal cut-off fuse, an open high limit thermostat, a failed operating thermostat, a bad timer, a failed motor centrifugal switch or a wiring failure between components in the heating circuit. The second image below shows the wiring diagram for your dryer. The L1 leg of the heating circuit is traced in red and the L2 leg is traced in green. I have also included the complete teardown instructions, use these to locate the components for testing (see images below).

I recommend that you unplug the dryer and check the heating element first. Remove the back panel to access this component. The third image shows the components in the back of the dryer. Remove one wire from the heater leads (with the dryer still unplugged) and measure the resistance across the leads of the element. You should measure between 7.8 and 11.8 ohms of resistance through this component. If the element is open (measures infinite resistance) then it is bad and will need to be replaced. If the heating element is okay, you can check the operating thermostat, the thermal cut-off fuse and the high limit thermostat in a similar manner (one wire removed, dryer still unplugged). These components should measure near zero ohms of resistance. If any component measures infinite resistance then it will need to be replaced. If the thermal cut-off fuse is blown, the high limit thermostat will need to be replaced at the same time since it should have opened to prevent the thermal cut-off fuse from blowing.

These tips may help you determine the cause of your dryer failure. If all of the above components are okay, you could have a failed timer, a bad motor centrifugal switch or a wiring failure in the heating circuit.

If you need more help, resubmit your question with additional details.

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Landell -
Sears Technician
February 23, 2010
Q:

Why has my Kenmore dryer stopped heating?

A:

If the motor will run, but the dryer is not heating you will need to check the heat circuit from the timer to the element. I have included a wiring diagram that shows all of those components (see image below). If you have a volt/ohm meter and are comfortable working around live electricity I can give you a few checks that will help you diagnose the problem. Disconnect electrical service to the dryer. Begin by checking each of the thermostats, and thermal cutoff for continuity. Then you will need to ohm the heating element. To do this, you will need to disconnect at least one of the wires to each component and place one meter lead on one of the connectors of that component and the other lead on the other connector of that component. For the thermostats, and thermal cutoff, set your meter to continuity. You should get a tone or “cl”, if you do not hear a tone or if you get “ol” that component is bad and will need to be replaced. Now to check the heating element, set your meter to ohms and repeat the above process. The heater should ohm approximately 8 to 12 ohms. If not the heating element is bad and will need to be replaced. If all of these components check OK, you will then need to check VAC (Voltage Alternating Current). Remember to reattach the wires to the components you just finished testing. Disconnect the red/white wire from the heater. Re-establish power to the dryer and start a timed dry cycle. Check the red/white wire to cabinet ground. It should be 120VAC, if not check the red wire at the timer to cabinet ground. If you do not have power at the timer, the timer is bad. If you have 120 all the way to the heater the heater is bad and will need to be replaced. Note: The heating element can be bad even if it ohms correctly.

At this point you should have found the issue. If you require further assistance please resubmit question with details of the checks you have made. I will be looking forward to helping you again in the near future.

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Landell -
Sears Technician
February 09, 2010

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