Model #11065066500 KENMORE ELITE Residential Dryer

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Question and Answers

Q:

Dryer not starting

A:

Dryers make life much more convenient and they help save time. It can be a concern when they fail to start. I was able to locate some information for you to help you. I am adding the links below to help you with your question while you wait for your expert response. I hope this will help in getting the dryer started.

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Marc H -
April 10, 2012
A:

A number of different failures could prevent the dryer from starting. A failed door switch, a bad electronic control board, a bad control panel, a blown thermal fuse, a bad drive motor or a wiring failure are among the possibilities. A broken drive belt could also cause this problem.

I recommend that you use the diagnostic test shown in the first image below to test the door switch and the console keypad. If those components seem to be working properly, I recommend that you unplug the dryer and check the thermal fuse. The wiring diagram in the second image has the drive motor circuit traced in blue. That diagram shows that the thermal fuse could be preventing the motor from getting voltage from the control board. The third image shows how to remove that bottom front access panel and the lint duct assembly to access that thermal fuse (with the dryer unplugged ). The 4th image shows the location of that thermal fuse. You can test that fuse using a volt/ohm meter a shown in this brief repair video: Dryer Thermal Fuse Testing . If that thermal fuse is blown, then it will need to be replaced. You can order that part from this page: Thermal Fuse for Kenmore Elite Dryer 110.65066500 . Be sure that you unplug the dryer before accessing and replacing internal components. NOTE: If that thermal fuse was blown, be sure that you check the exhaust vent duct path to the outside of your home for a clog or restriction as shown in that video.

If that thermal fuse is good, then you can check the drive belt with that bottom panel off of the dryer. A broken drive belt will prevent the motor from running.

If the thermal fuse and belt are both okay, then I recommend that you open the console and check the continuity through that drive motor circuit from the control board (with the dryer still unplugged ). The 5th image shows how to open that console. That wiring diagram should guide you in checking that circuit. If that circuit is okay, then you will probably need to replace that control board. If the drive motor circuit is electrically "open" then you may have a wiring failure or a bad drive motor.

These tips may help you determine the cause of this dryer failure.

If you need parts, you can order them from this page: Kenmore Elite Dryer 110.65066500 Parts .

If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services .

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 11, 2012
A:

Here are the 4th and 5th images.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 11, 2012
A:

Having similar issue as above. when I run the diags on the control panel all is good till I get to the start button. it gives me a code of 09. Any ideas?

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DMMc -
April 13, 2012
A:

Hello David. The diagnostic test information shows that you should see 03 or 05 when you press that start button. Getting the 09 display may or may not indicate that the start button is bad. That number may be a revision number for the control board. That start button may be okay as long as you see some numeric display even if it is not 03 or 05. I recommend that you UNPLUG the dryer and check that thermal fuse (if you have not already checked it). Check the resistance through that motor circuit. If all of the other components are okay, then you may need to replace that control panel. Reply with additional details if you need more help.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 13, 2012
A:

Thanks Lyle, Have ran thru all the Diags and have tested Thermal fuse, Thermistor, belt & door switches. Motor itself tested dead so replaced still no go. When start button pushed get a very brief "bump" then nothing, like the start windings were bad.

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DMMc -
April 13, 2012
A:

Hello David. Manually spin that drum to see if it will rotate reasonably easily. Keep in mind that the belt is around the drive pulley and the idler pulley. If that drum rotates okay, then you may have a loose wiring connection in that circuit. Try this. Unplug the dryer and check the resistance through the motor circuit from the control board (light blue wire on P1-4 to blue wire on P1-3). See if you get a few ohms of resistance through that circuit. If not, then you probably have a wiring break or a bad component in that motor drive circuit. If you get the proper resistance through that circuit, then your next step would probably involve checking the voltage coming out of that control board. You should only check that live voltage if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely measure it. Wear electrical safety gloves and safety goggles when checking that live voltage. Unplug the dryer following any live testing. If you are not getting the voltage (120 volts AC) out of that control board then that control board will need to be replaced. If the control board is okay, then you could have a bad drive motor. These tips may help. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 13, 2012
A:

OK...Drum, belt and ALL rollers and tensioner spin freely. Tension on belt is such that moving the blower fan will turn drum. Resistance thru motor circuit shows 1.6 to 1.8 ohm. Test of touch panel START button inconclusive. ALL touch switches test dead at the connector, (unplugged from panel), even those known to be good. Incoming power 110V on both legs. Which connectors do I use to test voltage out put of control panel?

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DMMc -
April 14, 2012
A:

Blower clear. Thermal fuse soild continuity, Thermistor @ 10.2 ohms @ aprox 72 degrees

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DMMc -
April 14, 2012
A:

I provided a voltage check for the motor circuit in the above response. I recommend that you be extremely careful if you check that live voltage. I don't have a voltage check for the control panel. There is a resistance test for the control panel. That test is shown in the image below. If you need more help, let us know.

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Lyle W -
Sears Technician
April 16, 2012
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Q:

kenmore dryer model# 110.65066500

A:

The dryer not shutting off can be a hassle and keep you from drying your clothes. I am adding a link below to help you with your question while you wait for your expert response.

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Joseph P. -
January 28, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question and I understand your concern.

Based on your symptom and details I suspect a faulty control panel. One or more key pads is most likely stuck or shorted. I added an image below showing which wires to check across for continuity. You will need an Ohm meter to check to see if the "Touch Up" button is shorted. Touch up is 30 minute timed cycle. To test to see if the "Touch Up" button is stuck or shorted you will need to disconnect P3 connector. Place the positive Ohm meter lead on P3-12 and the negative lead on P3-9 and it measures continuity without pressing "Touch UP", replace the control panel. NOTE: Disconnect the power cord from the power source before servicing your dryer.

The control panels available are in the color of white or graphite. The white control panel is part #8565432 and the graphite control panel is part #8565434. Bisque does not appear to be available. The control panel can be ordered from Sears PartsDirect .

To release the control panel from the top: You will need a putty knife to slip in between the top and the bottom of the control panel end caps. Push the putty knife in and hold pressure while prying the handle upwards and the control panel should release from the top. You will need to remove the end caps and any screws that are fastening the control bracket to the console in order to replace the console assembly.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website: Sears Home Services .

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
January 30, 2012
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Q:

When replacing a dryer heat element, are there any other parts that should be replaced at the same time?

A:

Based on your symptom it indicates a restricted venting system. Remove the lint filter and wash it with warm water and mild detergent using a soft brush. It may appear clean but if you fabric softener liquid or sheets, a clear residue can build up on the screen and restrict air flow. After cleaning the lint filter I recommend disconnecting the vent hose from the rear of the dryer and dry one load. If the clothes dry in a normal amount of time, then this would indicate a restriction in the venting system. You can also check the operating temperature of the hot air blowing out of the exhaust using a thermometer. The exhaust temperature should average 150 degrees when set on High heat. Test the operating temperatures with an empty dryer and allow the heater to cycle off and on 3-4 times before taking the average temperature. The cycling of the heating element is control by the control board and a thermistor. The heating could be possibly broken and only a portion of it could be working. NOTE: Disconnect the power cord from the power source before removing the lower access panel. You will need to remove the lower access panel located below the dryer door in order to access and remove the heating element. I added the instructions in the image below. You will need to test the resistance of the thermistor as indicated in the image below and remove and visually inspect the heating element. If the thermistor resistance measurements do not match the Thermistor Resistance chart in the image below, replace the thermistor. If the heating element is broken and has welded one end to the housing, replace the heating element.

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Joey S -
Sears Technician
March 03, 2010

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