Model #11060097990 KENMORE Residential Dryer

  • Console Panel
    3 Results
  • Cabinet
    3 Results
  • Bulkhead
    3 Results
  • Dryer Top
    3 Results
Find part by diagram >

Error Codes

Error Code:

Condition:

Check/Repair:

Question and Answers

Q:

Dryer Won't Start 11060097990 Kenmore Electric dryer

Q:

Why is my dryer constantly beeping?

A:

You could have a stuck button (Cotton - High Heat) on the console that could cause this problem. The technician will normally enter a diagnostic test mode on the dryer to check for a stuck key. I provided the test procedure in the image below. If you are able to enter this diagnostic test mode and test the keys, you may be able to determine whether a stuck button is causing your problem. If you determine that you have a stuck button, then the control console will likely need to be replaced. A technician is normally needed to verify this failure and replace the control console and/or the electronic control board in the dryer.

If you need more help, resubmit your question with additional details.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
February 25, 2009
A:

Hi I have the exact problem. Is there a way to rese the control pannel besides by disconnecting the powerand waiting5 minutes ?

Read More
andrea -
May 19, 2011
A:

Finally I left it alone for a couple of days and it unstuck itself. The part is quite expensive to change and I think the humidity makes it go crazy again as it was ok for a couple of days and it started sticking again on the high heat setting...

Read More
andrea -
May 31, 2011
See more answers
Q:

Why does my Kenmore dryer model 110.60097990 start and heat for 5 to 10 minutes and then quit?

A:

You indicate that static voltage going into the board on pins P1-1 and P1-4 is proper. You should be measuring about 120 volts AC. If the voltage is dropping when you attempt to start the motor, you could have a voltage supply problem. Low voltage would cause the motor so sound like it is straining. There is not capacitor on this motor. It has start windings that are cut out of the circuit when the centrifugal switch opens the contact from 3M to 5M (see wiring diagram below). If you have voltage going into the board on P1-1 but no run voltage going out of the board on P1-2 then the board is bad and will need to be replaced. If you are getting 120 volts out of the board on P1-2 then you could have a bad drive motor or a friction problem that is causing the motor to overheat and trip out on overload. It sounds like you have the tech sheet for this dryer. I assume that you are not seeing any fault codes and that you have checked the thermistor. These tips may help you properly diagnose your failure. If you need more help, resubmit your question with additional details.

Read More
Lyle W -
Sears Technician
October 20, 2009

Top Parts