Model #11047567700 KENMORE Residential Washers

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Question and Answers

Q:

Kenmore Washer Model #11047567700 Incredibly loud on spin 11047567700 Kenmore Residential washer

A:

Thank you for your inquiry on your Kenmore Washer, Model: 110.47567700. From reviewing the details on your model, what you have described sounds like the rear tub bearing has gone out. The only way to confirm this is to remove the drive belt & spin the basket manually slowly while feeling for something dragging the basket down. If you see water or an oily substance near the center of the tub & pulley area or the large drive pulley is hitting the back of the outer tub, this is a sign of a bad rear bearing. 

Safety Warning: Before beginning the repair, disconnect the direct power supply to the washer to prevent the risk of injury or any electrical shock.

If you don’t feel comfortable or confident in this repair, then you can have it repaired at home by a sears technician. I have the included a link to the website: Sears Home Services or call 1-800-469-4663.

 

I hope this answered your question. Thank you for contacting SearsPartsDirect.com, and have yourself a wonderful day. 

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Gerry 93 -
Sears Technician
May 29, 2015
Q:

Kenmore HE2+ F11, drum wont rotate

A:

You say you have opened the washer and the belt is OK, can you rotate the drum by hand?

Your machine was manufactured by Whirlpool and is essentially a re-badged "Duet Sport". The fault codes for this family of washers, and their Kenmore cousins, are given at the first link below.

There is a 'Shop Manual' for the Duet Sport at:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/6545d78b3f479480852571650061b1ba/$FILE/8178558.pdf

This may be a little slow to load so please be patient.

With respect to the F11 code if you can turn the drum by hand the likely causes are listed in the above douments. Should this be the case youmay be intereted in the second and tird links below.

Good Luck

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biguggy -
July 09, 2012
A:

Hello,

I'm sorry to hear that your HE2 has an F-11 problem and I would like to assist you with it. I thank Biguggy for providing the links on his post, the service manual is very beneficial. I have repaired several of the circuit board faults and that may be the case, but HE3 and HE4 were the units affected and then only produced prior to the 4th quarter or 2005. After that date, the issue was corrected. If you have a multimeter, there are a few quick checks that can be made to verify this issue. F11 denotes a loss of serial communication between the main electronic control unit and the motor controller. This is checked at the central control unit or CCU, hereafter, and the motor control unit or MCU.

The following checks will be performed with the unit powered up which equals live voltage checks. If you are not comfortable or experienced with this type of testing, I suggest going to Sears Home Services to arrange an appointment for a Sears technician.

Unplug the machine prior to beginning. Open the top of the machine by removing the screws that hold the top panel on from the back. There are usually three, one at each side and one in the center. Push the panel towards the back of the machine, it should move backwards about an inch and then it can be lifted off. Now, if you are back at the front of the machine, you will see a white or tan plastic case; inside is the CCU and there are a lot of wires running to it. It is difficult to see the wire connector markings, but a flashlight and some persistence will work. I suggest finding all of the connectors that will need to be tested, prior to plugging the unit back in.

Make sure the door is closed and then plug the machine back in and turn it on. It only needs to be on and you do not have to push start. The first test point is MS2, wires 1 and 2. You are looking for 110VAC and it should be within 10%, ie 90VAC denotes a failure. If voltage is missing, it is likely the CCU has a failed relay and will need replacing. If the AC voltage is there and correct, the next check is for DC voltage for the serial communications.

This is checked on the CCU at MI3, pins 1, 2, and 3. Set your meter to detect DC volts and check between 1 and 2, then 2 and 3. You should see 2.5 to 5 volts. You are pretty much ok as long as it is above 2 volts. If the voltage is low, it is potentially a MCU failure, but this is unlikely.

There is another potential issue to look at; there are grounding switches on the bottom of the cabinet assembly. The one that usually causes the problem is the front one. On some models, if the grounding safety switch is tripped, the basket motor will not turn at all.

I think that this is a good start and will probably lead you to the issue. Please reply with any finding that you have and don't hesitate to reply for further assistance.

Jerry C

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Jerry C -
Sears Technician
July 11, 2012
A:

Jerry - Thank you for your informative response.

Could yu please advise what was done to 'cure' the F11 fault code onthe He3 and 4 and presumably their Whirlpool cousins?

Thank you.

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biguggy -
July 11, 2012
A:

Hello Biguggy,

I'd be happy to describe the issue. There were a small percentage of circuit boards that would develop cold solder joint connections near one of the VAC relays. The normal heating and cooling that takes place on a circuit board contributed to solder joint cracking, which caused intermittent loss of conductivity. The fix was to re-solder the joint(s) or replace the board. Usually boards were replaced due to the low cost of the replacement versus the time it took to find and repair the issue.

There were many DIY�s that had to be re-done due to incorrect information that was put out in several forums and the like, on the internet. People were not advised to use de-soldering wick and the old solder was left in place with new solder added. It was unfortunate and many of the boards had to be re-done, I assume that quite a few frustrated people just replaced them on the second go around.

The issue being seven years old now, has been for the most part, completely eliminated. There are a large number of these machines in current service and there is a possibility that there may be a few machines that are affected to this day, but the probability is very low. The number of potentially affected machines was very low in the first place, and did not begin to warrant a recall. In fact, it did not even give cause for a simple service flash to be created.

I hope this sheds some light on this issue.

Jerry C

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Jerry C -
Sears Technician
July 12, 2012
A:

Jerry - Thank you again for a very informative answer. It does however raise a couple of points.

1. Just type in 'F11' in the 'search' box at the top of the page and you will get over 400 hits. Now I know not all refer to washers but the vast majority do. Further I believe the search engine only searches the 'Titles'. A similar 'search' of the 'internet' shows a very high number of 'hits'. this would tend to indicate that the problem was a little more widespread than you indicate.

2. I understand that the problem was not limited to the poor soldered connections. As I understand it one of two relays on the board used to fail regularly due to the contacts 'burning out'. I read one post, which unfortunately I cannot now locate, where the poster replaced the damaged relay, rewired the system, and used it as 'a pilot relay' to operate a larger capacity relay, which, in his opinion, was better suited to the load it had to carry. Are you aware of the relay failures, they are quite well documented?

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biguggy -
July 12, 2012
A:

Hello Biguggy,

I'm happy to put out fact and firsthand experience based information, in order to assist the users of this forum. I understand your questioning of my summary of the F11 issue. I think that 400 plus hits on a search is really good for a site like this that has nearly 200K threads. More importantly, the manufacturer of the HE2 also uses that error code on most other appliances, like ranges, and they are also included in that vague search. The F11 code in our application covers not just one or two components, but it actually refers to a failure of one circuit that is comprised of nearly a half dozen components and all the wiring that interconnects them. A failure anywhere along that path may cause an F11 code to be displayed. That is why we use testing procedures to zero in on the actual cause of the code. Some people believe that replacing the most commonly required part is a pretty good bet, but I prefer to know for certain, especially when I have a personal responsibility to do the right thing. I am attempting to assist our fellow member with their HE2 F11 code and when I search that on this site, I get 10 Topic hits. Continued

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Jerry C -
Sears Technician
July 12, 2012
A:

You are right that relay contact failure can cause an F11 code on this machine, but an actual relay failure on it's own is rare. I am interested in the posting that you have referred to and why a person would use a line voltage relay to fire a secondary relay, when one could simply replace the correctly engineered relay with an unneeded, ridiculously over-rated relay that has the same footprint and within a few dollars of cost difference. VAC driven relays are expensive compared to a VDC driven relays. Even if a VDC relay was used to turn on a secondary VAC relay, utilizing the boards existing VXX supply, this would induce an unwanted pulse into the V supply and potentially cause some very unwanted side effects, not limited to causing the controlling EEPROMS, EPROMS and other microcontrollers to potentially "lock" up at very inopportune times in the cycle. As far as relay failure rates go, they are an electro mechanical device and all of them are prone to inevitable and eventual failure. They have an expected cycle lifetime and it is unusual to see one fail prior to that number, unless used outside of it's design parameters or used with another faulty component.

I appreciate you asking me these questions. I see a lot of advice given on all types of forums on the 'net. Some of it is really good, a lot is OK, and the rest is questionable at best. The greatest thing that we can do is to discuss these ideas and issues and create a database of knowledge that will help our fellow members and anyone who chances upon this forum, who may be in need of a diagnosis and repair and want to do it themselves. We are arming them with precise knowledge, to get the job done correctly and cost effectively.

Jerry C

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Jerry C -
Sears Technician
July 12, 2012
A:

Jerry - Thank you again for a very informative answer.

As I stated previously I cannot now locate the thread about usng a pilot relay.

The first link below takes you to the 5th page of a thread about the F11 error and largely supports your view that the relays rarely fail. Some poster's say that the contacts in their relays were pristine, or word to that effect, and others that they were burnt. The general consensus does however seem to be that the root cause of the problem is fretting corrosion at the connection points throughout the machine, followed by failed solder connections. I refer to the 5th page as neare end a poster, MarkC11957 gives his reasoning and cure for the arcing of relay contacts sometimes experienced An induced voltage of upto 1500 volts from the door lock solenoid. It seems to make sense to me and I wondered what you thoughtght be?

One point raised in the subject thread is the corrosion of the spider, I do not believe it is due to galvanic corrosion as the posters' claim, and added my 3 cents worth on that at what is currently the last post in the thread. I believe that question is out of place in that thread and this as the main subject is electrical/electronic failure.

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biguggy -
July 13, 2012
A:

sorry for the late reply. in your post you said "Make sure the door is closed and then plug the machine back in and turn it on. It only needs to be on and you do not have to push start. The first test point is MS2, wires 1 and 2. You are looking for 110VAC and it should be within 10%, ie 90VAC denotes a failure. If voltage is missing, it is likely the CCU has a failed relay and will need replacing. " Looks like I have no voltage. Which would be the relay that I would need to replace?

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Pedro -
August 04, 2012
A:

Hello Pedro,

I'm glad to hear back from you, I'm sorry things got so technical prior. That has me to this point, unless you are comfortable with electronic test procedures and component soldering and replacement, it is not advisable to remove and replace components on the circuit board. There are many times that other components are also damaged and without the knowledge to test them and the tools, replacement of a single component is not advisable. That is why I finally ended my responses in this thread, and the discussion was going completely away from your issue. If you have access to electronic equipment and are confident, I will assist you though.

The control board for a 110.47567700 is currently backordered, but I have posted a link to it at the end of this reply, item number 6. If you have gotten through the circuit test procedures, replacing it will be pretty simple. Just be sure to label the wires and take a digital image to assist you when it comes time to reassemble.

Please let me know if you would like any further assistance.

Jerry C

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Jerry C -
Sears Technician
August 06, 2012
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Q:

error code P25 on Kenmore HE2t

A:

I know how disappointing it is to find an error code displayed on your washer. Especially when you have no idea what the cost of repair might be. An expert will be able to respond to your question with a detailed response. While your waiting I would suggest providing the full and complete model number to better assist the expert. Just add to this thread. I have attached the Sears Home Services website below in case your wanting to schedule service. Have a good day.

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Jackie S -
April 15, 2012
A:

Model 110.4756770

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Randy -
April 15, 2012
A:

model 110.47567700

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Randy -
April 15, 2012
A:

Randy - Your machine was manufactured by Whirlpool and is essentially a re-badged 'Duet Sport'. The error codes for this 'family of washer are given at the link below. You will notice that there is no 'P25' but that there is a 'F25', could this be it? There is a shop manual for this washer at: - https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/6545d78b3f479480852571650061b1ba/$FILE/8178558.pdf ---- It is a little slow to load so please be patient. I hope this helps.Good Luck

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biguggy -
April 15, 2012
A:

Hi Randy,

Thank you for submitting a question to Manage My Life.

There is not a P25 error code that we are aware of. I assume you are seeing the F25 error code. The F25 error is a DRIVE MOTOR TACHOMETER ERROR. If the control is unable to properly detect motor speed, the machine shuts down. If a failure occurs during high-speed spin, the door unlocks after 3 minutes. Possible Causes / Procedure:

  1. Make sure the motor will turn freely.
  2. Verify the shipping system including shipping bolts, spacers and cables are removed.
  3. Unplug the washer or disconnect power.
  4. Check wire harness connections between the drive motor and the Motor Control Unit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit (CCU).
  5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
  6. Check the MCU by looking for operations of the drive motor.
  7. Check the drive motor for powered rotations.


I am including a set of images below that will demonstrate gaining access to the controls and the motor. Always unplug or de-energize electrical equipment before removing covers or attempting service. Be careful and wear appropriate hand protection when working around sharp metal parts.

If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website; Sears Home Services .

Here is a link that you may use to view the parts list diagram or to purchase any parts needed for your Kenmore model number 110.47567700 washer .

I hope this is helpful. Check the things I have covered here and if I may be of further assistance please reply to this post.

Landell

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Landell -
Sears Technician
April 16, 2012
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