Model #1102 HOOVER Vacuum, Upright

  • Agitator, Cleaningtools
    3 Results
  • Handle
    3 Results
  • Motor Assembly
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

Convert LG Gas Dryer (model DLG1102W) to LP DLG1102W

A:

Thank you for choosing Sears Parts Direct. I will be more than happy to help with your dryer. Upon researching model DLG1102W; the correct conversion kit from natural gas to LP is LP conversion kit#383EEL3002D. This will include every part the manufacture of the dryer says is needed to convert the dryer.

I trust this information will help you, we appreciate your business thank for choosing Sears.

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CarlosZ -
Sears Technician
March 16, 2015
Q:

DIY service and dissassembly question.

A:

I completely understand your need for some type of instructions on how to properly remove the impeller assembly from your yard vac. While you are waiting for your expert answer, I did some research on the unit. At this time, I was unable to locate information that would be helpful in regards to your question. Some of these questions that are asked will need specific research and will be answered by an expert with-in two business days but usually sooner.

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Julio -
May 04, 2013
A:

Thank you for your question. The engine shaft is tapered (no puller available for this) you have to break the impeller loose from the shaft. Remove the bolt and washer holding the impeller on the motor shaft. Start the bolt back in the hole. Run it in until the head is only 1/8 inch away from the impeller. Place a large screw driver or pry bar between the impeller and the rear of the chipper, and pry hard on one side. Hit the head of the bolt firmly with a good sized hammer. The shock will break the impeller loose and it will come off. If the impeller does not loosen up with a couple of whacks with the hammer use a quality penetrating oil and allow it to sit for at least half an hour. If the impeller does not loosen after that, do not continue banging on it, you could damage the shaft or the engine. I highly recommend calling a service professional to diagnose and repair your chipper. If you require further assistance please resubmit your question with more details. I will be looking forward to helping you again in the near future.  I hope this is helpful. Please let me know if you need further assistance.   Thank you for using Manage my life. Mark T.

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Mark T -
Sears Technician
May 06, 2013
A:

Mark, That certainly was expert advice; the impeller took all of 5 minutes to get off this try! Now lets see how good you are. One of the three bolts holding the engine to the frame is siezed. I've sprayed it with penetrating oil, hit it with a hammer, heated it with a torch... I don't want to keep putting too much pressure on it so I don't round the edges or snap it completely.

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richrych -
May 12, 2013
A:

Well rich it seems like you covered just about all the bases for removing a tight bolt. I assume you have tried tightening just a bit more working it back and forth to loosen it. and sometimes I've had them that you just keep spraying and trying what you are doing already and just let it sit for awhile soaking with spray and coming back later and trying again sometimes many times before it breaks loose. and you probably already know that sometimes no matter what you do it is going to happen and you deal with it when it breaks off. when reinstalling them some anti-seize would be a good idea.

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TC -
May 12, 2013
A:

richrych, One thing I like to do if I have a blot that will not come out is use an impact wrench. After soaking the bolt with penetrating oil, I let it sit. Then turn the pressure way down on the impact wrench. Place a 6 point socket on the bolt and connect the impact wrench. Pull the trigger and let the impact hammer on the bolt for a while. The light tapping from the impact helps break the rust. After you let it hit for a while, remove the impact and try to break the bolt loose. I hope this is helpful. Thank you for using Manage my life. Mark T.

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Mark T -
Sears Technician
May 14, 2013
A:

Mark, Getting down to the wire now with a few final questions. Engine is off and I'm starting to tare it down to locate an oil leak and replace the gaskets. I've removed the bolts from the bottom of the crank shaft base but it is still firmly in place. Does the OIL SEAL (Part #20) also hold it in place and how would I remove it? Also, I've attached some picture and PDF's to try to illustrate another question. There was something else around the shaft that I had to cut away to get to the shaft seal. It was fibrus and broke away in pieces. It looks like it could have been some yard material that accumulated around the shaft and solidified over the years or is there another seal? I can't tell what Part # 1102 is as shown on the parts list.

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richrych -
May 21, 2013
A:

richrych, Thank you for posting the images. It looks like you have all the bolts in the sump removed. You should be able to tap on the sump to break it loose from the block. Over the years, they can stick a little. The fibrous part you removed from between the engine and the impeller is yard debris. After it is wrapped around the shaft, it heats up and gets hard. It is normal to find this. To somewhat prevent this try not to run vines or stringy lawn debris. I think if you replace the crankshaft seal and sump gasket it will cure the leak.

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Mark T -
Sears Technician
May 21, 2013
A:

We're almost there! Sump bottom if off and I expect to get the gasket kit in today's mail. One final question: Do I need ay type of gasket seal or compound when putting the new ones on or do I just put them in place dry and reassemble?

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richrych -
May 22, 2013
A:

Alright, maybe another question! While I was scraping off the old gasket, I was thinking...the original problem was that the last few times I used this vac, it was loosing large amounts of oil and it had a very strange burnt oil smell. I never noticed abmormal smoke from the exhaust. I'm wondering though, while I have it this far apart...per the picture of the top of the combustion chamber, does this look normal or could the rings be shot?

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richrych -
May 22, 2013
A:

richrych, Sorry for the lag time in getting back to you. Based on the looks of the engine it is using oil. I recommend feeling the cylinder walls with your fingernail. If the wall is scored up It will cause the engine to use oil. I also recommend turning the crankshaft until one valve is open. Then try to move the valve side to side. If there is any play in the valves that will also cause the engine to use oil. To repair either of these problems would require some special tools. As long as you keep an eye on the oil level, you should not have a problem. As for the gasket you apply a very thin layer of rtv on the engine block and sump. Not too much, just enough to seal any imperfections in the metal. At first I would not use anything on the gasket, but found some engines had scratches deep enough the gasket along would not seal it. Thank you for using Manage my life. Mark T.

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Mark T -
Sears Technician
May 27, 2013
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Q:

Wondering if an old keyless entry for a garage door opener will work with a new one?

A:

ManageMyLife.com is a great place to find the answers to just about anything, especially on appliances. I would suggest that you provide the model # so your expert will be able to provide you the best possible answer. Just click on reply below and the provide the required data.

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Priscilla V -
November 28, 2012
A:

the model number of the new opener is 139.5390DM. The model number of the old Craftsman unit is 139.53975 SRT mfg date of 11/02.

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Chad -
November 28, 2012
A:

Thanks for contacting ManageMyLife.com. I understand your concern about the old keyless entry working with the new garage door opener. We are here to help. The old keyless entry and remote will not work on the new garage door opener. The new garage door opener use the frequency on 3.15 Mhz. The old garage door openers used 3.94 Mhz. Therefore you will have to purchase a new keyless entry for the new garage door opener. I hope this helps.

To order garage door opener parts, please visit SearsPartsDirect.com with the model number.

Please feel free to let me know if you need further assistance. We are always here to help.

Thank you for using ManageMyLife.com.

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John H -
Sears Technician
November 28, 2012
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