Model #10670202991 KENMORE Top-Mount Refrigerator

  • Cabinet
    3 Results
  • Liner
    3 Results
  • Shelf
    3 Results
  • Refrigerator Door
    3 Results
  • Unit
    3 Results
  • Ice Maker
    3 Results
  • Freezer Door
    3 Results
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Question and Answers

Q:

the refrigerator is not cooling, but the freezer works find 10670202991 Kenmore Top mount refrigerator

A:

Thank you for your inquiry on your Kenmore Refrigerator, Model: 106.70202991. I am so sorry to hear that you’re having trouble with your refrigerator. From reviewing the details on this model, Check for any items that could be blocking the air flow in the refrigerator. The image below shows the air circulation pattern in this refrigerator. An item blocking the supply or return vent for cold air from the freezer could be causing this problem. Check to see if you detect any incoming air from the freezer through the diffuser on the top of the left side wall in the refrigerator. If you detect no air flow through this component, then it could be stuck in the closed position. Look for frost or ice build-up in this area. If you are able to defrost the diffuser, it may open properly. If not, it will likely need to be replaced. I recommend that you have a service technician replace this component and/or further diagnose the refrigerator.

Safety Warning: Before beginning this repair, disconnect the power supply to the refrigerator to prevent risk of injury from electrical shock.

Caution: internal parts may have sharp edges that may cause serious cuts. Use caution and wear protective gloves if possible.

If you don’t feel comfortable/confident doing the repair yourself, you can have a Sears’s repair technician come to your home and repair it. Here is the link for the technician’s website: SearsHomeSerivce.

 

I hope this answered your question. Thank your for contacting SearsPartsDirect.com, we appreciate your business. Have a great day.  

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Gerry 93 -
Sears Technician
June 11, 2015
A:

Note from Ron, an amateur but learning fast. I'm just finishing up with diagnosing and repairing a the saame problem with my GE refrigerator/freezer that has a similar configuration, down to ordering a defrost control module, an easy replacement. Advice from Gerry 93 is good, and that may solve the problem. His Safety and Caution suggestions are good, too, so please heed. Beyond Gerry's fix, you can diagnose and fix other likely culprits. First remove the air duct in the back of the freezer and check that the evaporator fan is running when the compressor runs. If no and there is no ice blocking the fan blades, the fan motor is probably bad. Replacing the entire fan is easy and not so expensive. Remove the back panel in the freezer for access. If the fan is okay and you find lots of ice behind the panel, the melt-water drain may be plugged. Defrost the evaporator coil with help from a hair dryer, then make sure all the water runs down the drain tube to the collection pan in the bottom of the case. If not, the tube may be plugged with debris or maybe was plugged with ice. Clean it out by syringing hot water into it or poking a thin plastic tube into it, or both. The defrost cycle could be bad. There are three components involved: (1) a heater at the bottom of the evaporator coil, (2) a thermostat fastened to the evaporator coil connection tube (maybe two thermostats), and (3) a control timer or electronic module. Each of these components can be tested following procedures you can find on the Net or on this site. Just search "refrigerator test defrost heater (thermostat, timer)." An electronic module may not be testable, but if the other two components are okay it is probably bad. See the parts diagram on this site to identify all the components for your model. You will need a simple Volt/Ohmeter. These fridge components, bought wisely, are not very expensive, and replacement is straightforward. You may have to cut wires and reconnect to test the thermostat(s).

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Ronald -
June 11, 2015
A:

PS: To test the thermostat(s) isolate them by disconnecting connections or cutting the wires.Run the fridge until the evaporator coil is chilled, then use the meter to check for a closed thermostat condition, that is; there must be continuity thought the thermostat(s) contacts. Note that these wires are 120 Volts, so don't be near them when the fridge is plugged in. Unplug before opening the circuit and test for continuity only after unplugging again but while the coil connection tube is still very cold. Always unplug when poking around behind any panel.

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Ronald -
June 11, 2015
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Q:

Kenmore Elite Model 70202991 -- water dripping into refrigerated section

A:

I can appreciate you concern and I'm glad that the unit is staying cool for you.  I feel confident that the drain line for the freezer defrost system has probably frozen over.  I have located a link that will discuss your situation in more detail. 
Click here to view the link.  Though this link discusses a different model number,
the mechanics are likely going to be very similar.  Keep in mind that an expert will be
responding within the next two business days if not sooner and will likely offer you more information and
instruction. I hope this information will be helpful and have a nice day.

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Henry -
July 15, 2013
A:

Thanks for contacting manage my life about your refrigerator model 106.70202991; sorry you are having a problem, I will be glad to assist you. A couple things you need to check; is there water dripping from the ice maker fill spout. If so then a new fill tube sleeve needs to be installed.    If there is no leak at ice maker I would then suspect that the defrost drain trough needs cleaning. _Always disconnect power supply before servicing the appliance and be cautious of any sharp metals while accessing components_  The ice in the bottom of your freezer section can only come from two sources, the ice maker leaking or the defrost drain is clogged. If the ice maker was leaking you would see ice near the top of freezer as well which you did not mention. That leaves the defrost drain that is located below the evaporator coil in the back of the freezer. First you will need to deice the freezer by unplugging, leaving doors open for 8 to 10 hours.( prepare for water leaking to floor) Once the ice has all melted you will need to remove shelves from freezer and remove the back cover . After removing the cover you can see the evaporator and the defrost drain trough under the coil.  Clean and flush the drain hole pushing any debris to the underside of the unit where it will go into the drain pan. ( the use of air pressure works best) After cleaning reassemble in reverse order and you should be ready for food reload. I hope this helps, should you need additional help please reply with added details and I will be happy to respond. If you get to the point where you need to have a service technician diagnose and repair this failure, you can schedule service through this link: Sears Home Services.Ron H.

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Ron H -
Sears Technician
July 16, 2013
A:

My fault not giving info. Ice maker is not hooked up. I do not see any ice in freezer compartment on top of bottom shelf. Does this help any?

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George -
July 16, 2013
A:

Hello George , thanks for the added information, Based on that I recommend chcking the defrost drain as described in first reply. Ron H.

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Ron H -
Sears Technician
July 17, 2013
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Q:

Cubic feet of refrigerator

A:

Good afternoon.... We'd be happy to supply you with that information. I did find a link that is only one digit off your model number (2990 compared to 2991). The different ending digit may apply to color.... View the link below and keep in mind that you will also receive an expert response shortly. I hope this helps and have a nice day

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Henry -
November 13, 2012
A:

Thank you for your question. It's nice to know the size of your refrigerator. This is a 22 cubic foot model. I hope this will help you.

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Scott D -
Sears Technician
November 14, 2012
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